Body Mounting Coupler Tip

[mecgp7]

I have started body mounting MTL couplers and with the new equipment it can be easy. Some have the mounting hole and others have a designated space for the coupler box. The older equipment is variable and the style of MTL couplers that fit varies as well based on clearance, etc., especially since I want to use what I have in my current inventory.

So, I was having trouble placing the hole in which to screw the coupler on. I had read about templates, but I still didn't like how it was working. Sitting in front of me was a roll of double-sided carpet tape that I use to hold on fuel tanks, etc. I put a piece of the tape on the underside of the first car where I wanted to mount the coupler, peeled off the backing and put the coupler exactly where I wanted it. Next I used a drill bit that fit through the hole of the coupler box and drilled the hole right through the tape. The coupler box acts as a drill jig. Pull the tape off the car and coupler and mount with the right screw. You can use the tape more than once.

I was able to fly through several cars. I thought I would share.

[BruceStikkers]

That sounds like one of those great ideas that you wonder shy it wasn't thought of a long time ago. I am in the process of doing the same thing you are and have the same challenges on older cars or those not designed to add a body mount coupler. The other problem seems to come with cars such as tank cars and hoppers that don't have much to drill in to to hold the coupler.

Bruce Stikkers
St. Joseph, IL

[peteski]

The other problem seems to come with cars such as tank cars and hoppers that don't have much to drill in to to hold the coupler.

In situations like this I often make a plate from some 0.020" brass which has the same dimension as the coupler mounting pad.  I place it over the thin plastic pad and drill a #61 hole in the brass plate in the same spot as the hole in the plastic mounting pad.  I then tap that hole in the brass. That creates couple of threads in brass which will hold the screw much more securely than threads in the thin plastic.  I then place the metal plate over the plastic mounting pad and attache the coupler by screwing though both, the plastic and brass pads.

[rschaffter]

I put a teeny-tiny dot of Walthers Goo on top of the box before screwing it on to prevent it from turning should the screw ever loosen...

[Joetrain59]

Now, how does all of this work out with Z905's?  I have found that some newer releases work very well, using same mounting hole and pin/screw.
 Just did this on some passenger cars that had body mounts, but the Z's don't stay coupled. Think I need to move them outward a bit, as observation has shown      that on 13" radius curve, the cars come in contact with each other on the inner curve side. As if not enough play/swing to work properly.
 Joe D

[bbussey]

A 13" radius is tight for passenger equipment. You will have to push the coupler distance out.