Author Topic: Gluing UNITRAK  (Read 2540 times)

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Flagler

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Re: Gluing UNITRAK
« Reply #15 on: February 23, 2014, 07:59:18 AM »
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I consider myself a expert with unitrack....do not use the caulk...the what glue residue cleans up with a butter knife when needed.

DKS

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Re: Gluing UNITRAK
« Reply #16 on: February 23, 2014, 08:04:33 AM »
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Warning Will Robison. DO NOT USE CAULK.

Why not? I've used it, and as others have said, it peels off the track easily and cleanly, usually most all of it in one chunk. White glue may work too, but you've got more cleanup work to do.

Scottl

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Re: Gluing UNITRAK
« Reply #17 on: February 23, 2014, 08:17:26 AM »
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I've experimented with all kinds of caulk, just because I use what is on hand at the moment.  They all come off cleanly and it has a nice initial tack to hold things as well.  With Unitrack I would use a bead along the edge of the base.

Some people use caulking as "snow" on their models because it comes off so cleanly.

Flagler

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Re: Gluing UNITRAK
« Reply #18 on: February 23, 2014, 09:58:25 AM »
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Go ahead a clean caulk out of the unijoiners and the pocket that the unijoiners fit into after  1 year when the caulk has dried out and get back to me.

DKS

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Re: Gluing UNITRAK
« Reply #19 on: February 23, 2014, 10:24:00 AM »
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Go ahead a clean caulk out of the unijoiners and the pocket that the unijoiners fit into after  1 year when the caulk has dried out and get back to me.

You don't need to caulk the length of the track. Just put a few globs along the middle. More than adequate to hold it in place, and a snap to clean out.

Denver Road Doug

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Re: Gluing UNITRAK
« Reply #20 on: February 23, 2014, 10:25:31 AM »
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Go ahead a clean caulk out of the unijoiners and the pocket that the unijoiners fit into after  1 year when the caulk has dried out and get back to me.

Why would you have caulk in the unijoiners?   Sounds like excessive application.   Just bead or "dot" the edges...the track itself is not going anywhere, you just need the roadbed to hold its horizontal position.

I've used the same "qwik-seal" stuff with great success.  Only downside I've found is that foam will fail before the caulk will, so you have to be careful not rip chunks of ground out when you remove it if attached to foam.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2014, 10:29:44 AM by Denver Road Doug »
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Scottl

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Re: Gluing UNITRAK
« Reply #21 on: February 23, 2014, 10:30:36 AM »
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Caulking does not adhere permanently to plastic, so it tends to peel off.  All adhesives need to be used with moderation with track, or you risk gumming things up.

jpec

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Re: Gluing UNITRAK
« Reply #22 on: February 23, 2014, 11:01:24 AM »
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Only use foam & white glue. I had a 100ft long x 3 foot wide layout and purchased some used tunitrack that had been aattached with caulk,what a mess to clean out the pockets that hold yhe unijoiners

If you only put a dab on where the nail holes would be drilled out, you will have no trouble getting it up and re-using it... gluing near the joiners isn't a good idea...

Jeff
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fifer

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Re: Gluing UNITRAK
« Reply #23 on: February 23, 2014, 11:11:42 AM »
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We have roughly 750' of Unitrak at the club layout and all has been spot tacked with silicone. It merely needs to be held in place until ballasted OR scenery is applied up to it and at that point it will certainly stay where placed. Easy to remove by wetting the scenery and pop up with a knife and peal off the dabs of silicone.

Mike
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eja

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Re: Gluing UNITRAK
« Reply #24 on: February 28, 2014, 03:08:21 PM »
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We have roughly 750' of Unitrak at the club layout and all has been spot tacked with silicone. It merely needs to be held in place until ballasted OR scenery is applied up to it and at that point it will certainly stay where placed. Easy to remove by wetting the scenery and pop up with a knife and peal off the dabs of silicone.

Mike

Thanks Mike ... I was hoping you would chime in.

eja

PS:  Really like your videos.

Flagler

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Re: Gluing UNITRAK
« Reply #25 on: February 28, 2014, 10:06:11 PM »
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The end of the story is to keep caulk away from the ends of the track sections or use white glue.