On my layout Gray Towing and Shipping has a storage shed that Mr. Gray decided to partially rent to STK lumber. It's owned by his nephew, and Mr. Gray has graciously agreed to a fee of $1.00 a month plus all the lumber he needs. That’s the story for my new storage shed.
This shed features 4 sliding doors and an attached (or separate) office/garage. Since it’s actually 2 buildings, it can be arranged any way you like, or you can build just the shed, or build just the office. It is made from styrene and uses mostly Evergreen’s #4525 .040 metal siding (styrene), plus some .015 and .030 styrene. The Evergreen siding spacing is narrower than the prototype, but it’s what I had on hand.
Reference photos were taken by a CP employee, and this build would not be possible without them. I took some liberties with the design, to make it easier for me and for others to build, but have tried to stay as close as possible to the prototype. The total footprint is ¾” x 5 3/4”. This makes it an ideal trackside structure, even though mine won’t be trackside.
I don’t always build what I draw, but I did this one. Overview pics are my installation. Sketches include parts templates and assembly drawings. PDF’s are also included. Please read Notes below before you begin. I recommend cutting out parts with a S.E.R.B. The hardest part of this build is cutting the door and window frames (1/32” wide). If you have some door and window parts left over from a kit I would recommend using them by adjusting openings accordingly. Rich @ Rslaserkits also has some excellent door and window kits for your scratchbuilding needs.
Here is a link to a "make your own" SERB (Single Edge Razor Blade) holder thread:
http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthread.php?24957-S-E-R-B-holder-mod-1The sketches are annotated, and are pretty much self explanatory, but additional directions will be listed here. To make your build easier you can enlarge them to full size and print them out.
Use a plastic solvent cement such as Ambroid Pro Weld, or Plastruct Plastic Weld. Do NOT use Testors plastic tube type cement.
It is best to paint the exterior surfaces only, before assembly. Do not paint edges for good plastic to plastic glue bonds. Edges can be touched up later.
Prior to gluing walls on floors, I tape a plain sheet of paper to a scrap of 16 gauge (.060) sheet metal, then use rubber cement to glue the floor to the paper. This keeps the floor from moving while you glue the walls in place, and also allows you to use magnetic square blocks to make sure walls are plumb. In addition, the scrap metal piece gives you a way to take your structure to your painting area when necessary. The paper is easily removed when structure is complete.
NOTES & TIPS: (Some of these were added as a result of mistakes that I made)
If printing from PDF's, be sure to select best printer quality, set zoom to 100%(its not always automatic - you have to select it), and set page scaling to "none" or actual size.
The door rail is best made by gluing the .030 piece to a wider than necessary piece of .015 (use a straight edge for alignment) and then cut the .015 to width.
To cut out the window, 1st score the outline, drill a hole in the center, cut from hole to each corner with an exacto SAW blade, then bend the 4 pieces at score lines.
Glue door rail to main front before painting rail or front.
When you cut out opening for man door, if you are careful, you can use it for the door by reversing it.
PDF links:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/o3vjc58kfksl4jt/sspt1pdf.pdf?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/z7jh3j6pnjcd3dx/sspt2pdf.pdf?dl=0
