Squeaky Atlas GP-9

[Flatrat]

I have a new Atlas Geep 9. it's been running like a Swiss watch the last few months. I recently popped the shell and lubed what i thought were pertinent moving parts with Aero Loco lubes. Occasionally though it emits a 'squeaky door hinge' sound. Can anyone advise on this as to where i may need to add lube?

Scott

[Ron McF]

If you dismantled the mechanism, then perhaps you didn't get the bearing blocks properly aligned when you reassembled it.

One thing I do with all my Atlas GP7s and GP9s is "beardenise" them:
http://trainweb.org/passengercars/Bearingblock.pdf

Regards,
Ron McF

[Flatrat]

After running it in for a few more hours it has quieted down. Thanks for the link though. I will look further into lubing the flywheel and worm gears.

S

[Bob Horn]

I would bet when you reassembled the loco the body is sitting a tad lower that it was before and the plow or rock knockers are touching the track. Either file a little bit off or give the shell a slight pull upward. Bob.

[Flatrat]

The shell appears to be properly back in place. i suspect the squeak was eminating from the area of the flywheel to worm gear. i'll double check the body shell clearance though.

thanks!

s

[Bob Horn]

It is not in the drive train. Look at the bottom of the ends, rock knockers or steps.

[Ron McF]

With all due respect, Bob. I have 14 of these Atlas locos, and (IMO) it is not possible to put the body back on so that it touches the track. Well, not without it being glaringly obvious, anyway.

On the other hand, the mechanism is designed such that even the slightest misalignment of the drive train can cause friction and noise. This noise can diminish over time, as the drive train settles itself down again (which is what the OP has observed).

In my experience, removing the inner bearing blocks not only makes the locos run more quietly, but also more smoothly, and at lower speed.  The modification takes only a few minutes, and is easily reversed if you're not totally satisfied with the results.

Regards,
Ron McF

[peteski]

In my experience, squeaks like the one described here are usually caused by lack of lubrication at the fastest spinning shafts (motor and worm shafts).  In most cases it is the motor shafts.   I never encountered a plastic coupling (like the one at the flywheel) making this type of squeaking noise.

[mecgp7]

With all due respect, Bob. I have 14 of these Atlas locos, and (IMO) it is not possible to put the body back on so that it touches the track. Well, not without it being glaringly obvious, anyway.

On the other hand, the mechanism is designed such that even the slightest misalignment of the drive train can cause friction and noise. This noise can diminish over time, as the drive train settles itself down again (which is what the OP has observed).

In my experience, removing the inner bearing blocks not only makes the locos run more quietly, but also more smoothly, and at lower speed.  The modification takes only a few minutes, and is easily reversed if you're not totally satisfied with the results.

Regards,
Ron McF

Hi Ron,
I have dozens of these locos and I have experienced the shell hitting the track. Actually it is not the shell sitting too low as much as it is the sidesill/pilot piece that tends to droop on one end. Usually it is the rear. It can actually droop enough to hit the track and squeak or catch on a frog, etc. It only seems to happen on the earliest release of the "Classic" line. It almost acts like the handrail piece is just a tad too short so it creates a bend in the sidesill.  The same phenomenon can be duplicated if you use screws to hold the couplers in place. Driven to far and the screw hits the underside of the walkway and pushes the pilot down.
CG

[Ron McF]

Hi CG.

All of my GPs are from the earliest (1995) releases from China.  (Most were bought cheaply on eBay, and I've become quite adept at modifying the frame and installing DZ125s in them.)

I agree that if not reassembled properly, the handrail section can "droop" at one end.  But I would suggest that when that happens, the problem IS glaringly obvious.

By the way, and for clarity, when I mentioned the "drive train" in my previous post I was referring to the motor and worm shafts (that Peteski mentioned), and the metal bearings that these shafts pass through. Misalignment or wobble can result in contact and friction between a spinning shaft and a metal bearing surface.

Regards,
Ron

[Bob Horn]

Run it with the shell off, that will tell the tale. Bob.

[robert3985]

I'm gonna guess that it's the fireman leaving for coffee at Madge's Diner and the door is squeeking.

Reason it's stopped is because the Engineer finally got tired of it and took his oil can to the hinges.

[JMaurer1]

There are all of those engine access doors on the side of the long hood. Since the sound is a 'squeaky door hinge', I'm betting that one of the access doors are not being closed tightly and that's the cause of your sound. 

[Flatrat]

My bad. Turns out it was the little wheel the hamster runs on that makes the engine go that was squeaking.

I ran the engine with the shell off and it made the squealing sound for a brief time. Eventually i think the lube found its way into the shafts near the worm gears. Problem went away with further running and in the future i will make sure to lube those contact points.

Thanks everyone for the advice.

Scott