Author Topic: Brickin' the Wall  (Read 3223 times)

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pnolan48

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Re: Brickin' the Wall
« Reply #15 on: September 01, 2012, 11:27:35 PM »
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Actually, it's probably hundreds of dollars these days--but the problems remain. As Peteski notes, what I see on my monitor is very likely different from what you see, and just as likely different from what Peteski sees. When I was doing brochures professionally, I spent a lot of time and money calibrating my previous Apple Cinema monitor to my printer's previous digital presses, although I had the use of his expensive digital colorimeter. Then, of course, my new Apple computer couldn't drive my old monitor and, even if it could, the results would not be the same. And my printer changed his digital press. We decided that, since my volume of work was falling off a cliff, we'd just hack it by approximating bit by bit by bit (pun intended), a little like calculus.

Matching even ONE monitor's RGB space to just ONE printer's CMYK space is a very perplexing process, despite all the standards. With landscapes and vivid colors, it's not much of a problem. But when you are trying to match grays--the most vexing of printing problems--you will go nuts, and eventually resort to my solution (?): print a grid of grays with almost random RGB values until my printer comes up with a closest match--assuming of course that the printer's print head is clean and clear.

My general observation about brick remains the same: it's darker than it photographs. I'd go with the 1:128, and use darker tints for variations. Once you light it up for photos, or just for looking at it on your layout, it will be brighter.

Zox

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Re: Brickin' the Wall
« Reply #16 on: September 08, 2012, 11:23:15 AM »
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I tried doing this a while back and wasn't happy with the results. It look too flat and devoid of texture. I think the issue is the lack of subtle shadows at the mortar lines. You can this effect in the sunny photo you posted. Is there anyway to do this in your software? You might be stretching the limits of printing resolution however. Just something to think about before you go all in.

Sorry I didn't get back to this sooner--it's been One of Those Weeks(tm).

In the 600dpi graphic I'm using as the brick texture, the mortar lines are about 1.5 pixels tall--not enough room to play games with shadows. Even at my laser's 2400dpi, it would get lost in the halftoning/dithering. In any case, the shadows vary so much with lighting that no matter what I did, they'd look wrong somewhere on the building at any given time.

I'm hoping to have enough actual 3D detail--windowsills, cornices, etc.--that the lack of 1/600 of an inch of depth on the mortar won't be obvious. Heck, the difference in toner thickness between the bricks and the mortar might be enough to do the trick. :)

In any case, it's the best I can do at the moment, so it'll have to be good enough.
Rob M., a.k.a. Zox
z o x @ v e r i z o n . n e t
http://lordzox.com/
It is said a Shaolin chef can wok through walls...