Weekend Update - 7-6-2008

[Chris333]

Railbus looks sorta like this one:


http://www.buffalocreekandgauley.com/LOCOMOTIVES/BusB/RailbusB.html
Bachmann is making one in On30:
http://www.45mm.jp/page173.html

[sizemore]

I was going to just use the stock Atlas stack and I thought "Chris would never do this". So yeah I was cursing you as I tried to shape and glue a perfect .006" wire ring to the end of a 1/16" brass rod! In the end it came out pretty good though...

Good thing you didn't model #1066:
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/cnj/cnj1066s.jpg
 ;D

*insert theme from twilight zone here*

[sizemore]

Rich,
Can you provide a little more detail on how you re-fitted the LL fuel tank on that VO?  I'd like to fix mine in a similar manner...
Lee

Hey Lee!  ;D


I didn't think of securing the cab to the sill, in order to keep it removeable I think I'll secure it using screws underneathe the sill.

[John]

A little more progress

[img width= height=]http://lh3.ggpht.com/acsxfan1/SHQWn5FbSDI/AAAAAAAAD6o/U8EHd_HxjPc/s800/IMG_4697.jpg[/img]

[img width= height=]http://lh6.ggpht.com/acsxfan1/SHQWrP1Z4PI/AAAAAAAAD6w/O8X-SGyk1yM/s800/IMG_4701.jpg[/img]

[Iain]

I like the screws for the cab idea.

[TrainCat2]

John, you are hauling a$$ on the layout. What lit the fire??

[wm3798]

He needed something to tear down in September...

Here's good ol' 129... I think when I go after the fuel tanks, I'm going to go ahead and strip it and start over.  I weathered it with a hammer...

Did you do the letter board across the grille?

Lee

[ryourstone]

Hey Rich,

Nice loco, but what I really want to know about is the Reading boxcar!!

Have you seen the Intermountain FP7's yet?  A little disappointed on the green and yellow color, but nothing some weathering won't cure.  I got the shell to sit down on the mech much better, now I have to lower the fuel tank and get rid of those "lift rings".  I am starting to think that building a Kato one with my shell might be easier!

Marc Haas

Hi Marc, good to see you here  

The Reading boxcar is just a stock MT 40-footer with Superior door as a stand-in for a XMa. Letting comes from about 4 different Microscale sets, including the RDG caboose and hopper sets, plus a couple data sets. I have some CDS N-51 sets now, these will be a lot easier to work with but are for XMc. 1956-built cars so a little too recent for us. By swapping out the C for an A and leaving off the ACF label it might be fine for XMa, need to take a closer look.

Haven't picked up the FP7 yet. Not sure what to do because my smaller house means no mainline unless it's a simple roundy-round which I'm worried I'll get bored with, so I'm looking more at a shelf-type modular switching layout.

[sizemore]

He needed something to tear down in September...

Here's good ol' 129... I think when I go after the fuel tanks, I'm going to go ahead and strip it and start over.  I weathered it with a hammer...

Did you do the letter board across the grille?

Lee

Lee,
Yeah I'd take a pics but my camera has finally bit the dust. Fair warning: be very careful if you're using super-goo...the center peice is the hardest. If I did it again I'd use Tenax with some capilary action that way you dont run the chance of goofing the grills with super glue. When I get a chance I'll try to get some pics with someone elses camera (or I buy a new one).

T 

[up1950s]

John, you are hauling a$$ on the layout. What lit the fire??

Maybe that there is stricter control on athletes taking steroids , the market fell through the bottom , and they can be gotten for next to nothing . You can , and in fact almost need to , work through the night and day with 30 minute naps here and there . I was on them legally for a few years . Looks great John . What are the new dimensions of your empire ?

[sizemore]

So don't ask me for pics.... I did the modification, I filled the underside of the battery-box vertically with 1/16" by 1/16" plastruct. File a small hair off the sill guides closest to the steps. A blind sided file works best to keep the edge on the sill and remove plastic where its not needed. Onto the cab, fit it snuggly and securely in the sill align properly. Use the existing press fit holes from the top of the battery boxes and drill down vertically with a #63 bit, you should drill through the sill. Countersink the holes on the bottom of the sill. Countersink two threads worth of the holes in the plastruct that was just fit into the cab. Tap it by using an 00-90 screw, then assemble your cab/sill. Thats pretty much it.

HTH,
T

[wm3798]

I used a piece of clear acetate painted black, and attached with some Plastruct cement.


The plate got a little crazed by the glue, but I figure those sheet metal plates probably got pretty banged up anyway...

Lee