How to get solder to stick to iron, or , my new micro solder iron sucks.

[mmagliaro]

That new 63/37 AIM stuff is the ticket.  Although .032" is a little thick.
Personally, I like really thin solder, down around .020" or .015".  It is super easy to get it to flow and make small, neat joints.  But you should have good success with that AIM solder.

[craigolio1]

Yes, the 63/37 is the best solder for electronic components.
Radio Shack solder is 62% Tin, 36% Lead and 2% Silver.

Thanks.

So what’s the 2% silver for? Does it really make that much of a difference?

[peteski]

Thanks.

So what’s the 2% silver for? Does it really make that much of a difference?

I'm not up on  solder metallurgy, but it is supposed to make the solder harder so the solder joints are also less prone to breakage.

Here is something I found on the Interwebs:
Silver bearing alloys have been used in electronics soldering for many years. Silver has been used in tin-lead solders (Sn62Pb36Ag2) to combat silver scavenging from silver plated electronic components as well as to improve thermal fatigue resistance.

When I worked as an electronic technician we only used 63/37 solder.

[mmagliaro]

Thanks.

So what’s the 2% silver for? Does it really make that much of a difference?

In my personal experience, it make a VERY big difference.  It makes a much stronger joint that is less susceptible to stress cracking, especially with moving parts.   It's not important at all for soldering electronic components to a board or some wiring, but for making a physical model, like a brass engine or turnout parts that flex,  it makes a lot of difference.

[craigolio1]

In my personal experience, it make a VERY big difference.  It makes a much stronger joint that is less susceptible to stress cracking, especially with moving parts.   It's not important at all for soldering electronic components to a board or some wiring, but for making a physical model, like a brass engine or turnout parts that flex,  it makes a lot of difference.

Good to know. Thanks