East Norwood, OH in Z Scale

[Chris333]

Ah  Earth Explorer knew right where it was... Here is 1949

[Jesse6669]

I received the benchwork from TTrak by Denniston (Stuart Denniston) and it looks absolutely fantastic!  Boxed up it was amazingly compact, and the packaging was bullet-proof.  This was the inner packaging (there was another box containing this with shipping labels, etc):       

 

Here are the modules laid on the floor.  This was exactly to spec, and excellent woodworking/craftsmanship.  I couldn't have done anything nearly as good.  There are also background boards for backdrops.



I'm waiting on my power tools to facilitate proper installation, which should be here within a week or so.   My plan is to add shelf brackets to the wall (at the studs), and secure the modules together semi-permanently resting on the brackets.  Anyone have tips for joining the modules toether?  I'm thinking 3-4 lag bolts with wing nuts?  Would clamps (eg 3 small C-clamps) be sufficient?   Some combination?   

I have also been working on the basic 3D design for GK tower (East Norwood B&O).  I haven't had any luck getting actual dimensional drawings so went from a combination of photographs plus data from B&O drawings of the Midland City, Ohio depot (also on the B&O SW), which was likely constructed at about the same time, and the B&O standard tower design.  All of this was found on the web.  From what I  can discern, it seems the tower section was added to an older one-story depot at some point in the early 1900s.  Basically they grafted a B&O Standard tower design on the depot but modified it to an "L" shape.  I did reach out to the B&O RR HS to see if they have anything in their archives on this tower.  I also will do the depot before the eaves/roof were trimmed (sometime late 70's) just because it's more aesthetically pleasing--and I can now run earlier prototypes (B&O, Chessie, PRR, PC) with conviction  .  Of course the real tower burned down so it'll be a "ghost tower" when I run anything post 90's. 

 

Of course the finished design will have far more detail and I'll post that as it comes along. 

[Lemosteam]

With respect to bolting the modules together, I would do four things.

-Buy a set of proper brad point woodworking drill bits in 1/64th increments they will outlive you and you will use them forever.https://www.rockler.com/25-piece-hss-brad-point-drill-bit-set-imperial

-DO NOT attempt to measure location and drill the ends separately.  Instead clamp them together perfectly and drill through both modules as square as you can, using a bit diameter that is 1/64th, or for a tighter fit, 1/32nd undersize of the bolt shank you plan use.

--If you can, find bolts with shank lengths that are just shy of the two end plate thicknesses, and use thick fender washers (larger OD for better clamp load) under the bolt head and the mating nylon insert (thread locking insert) or prevailing torque nut (thread locking head upset, sometimes three flats crushed into the top of the nut).  These will prevent loosening from vibration.

-Buy some brass tabletop alignment pins, two per joint https://www.rockler.com/table-pins-choose-type,  spread their location as far apart as you can, use the recommended drill size and again drill through both ends at the same time, and install the pins in opposing directions.

This will ensure a lifetime of alignment and realignment.

Just my thoughts.

[NorthWestGN]

Modules look great Jesse. I see you've designed the Yard Tower, interesting structure, 3D printing then add the roof supports?

Brent

[Chris333]

Does Denniston have a website or do you just contact and he makes custom stuff?

[Jesse6669]

Does Denniston have a website or do you just contact and he makes custom stuff?

Mine was all custom but the name implies he does TTrak modules to their spec. 

He has a domain set up but no website, yet.   

I contacted him via email at: dennind@gmail.com   He has ttrakbydenniston@gmail.com registered, worth a shot as he should have email forwarding.
Here's the website: ttrakbydenniston.com

[Jesse6669]

Modules look great Jesse. I see you've designed the Yard Tower, interesting structure, 3D printing then add the roof supports?

Brent

Thanks!  It's the tower at the junction of the B&OSW Mainline and PRR/CL&N. 

The final model will be entirely 3D printed if I have my druthers.  I've done far smaller in T-scale! 

[Jesse6669]

Attaching the modules to the wall is the question of the moment...  these need to be open underneath because part of the wall is my workbench (the 6" deep x 6-foot run of the B&O Mainline).

I'm going to use brass pins and bolts to secure the modules together, but they all need to be secured to the wall.  Keeping in mind the long runs are only 6" deep, and the widest point (McCullough Yard) is only 12", I'm trying to decide whether to:

• A. Attach the modules directly to the wall to studs and additionally to drywall anchors.
• B. Add shelf supports at the studs and between using drywall anchors so there are at least 2 supports per unit.  Then place the modules on the shelf supports and level as needed.
• C. Add actual shelves to the supports, then the modules on the shelves.
• D. Some other solution.. clips of some sort anchored to the wall?  Magnetic levitation?  Suspend from ceiling?

Option A. seems likely to be troublesome to hang/unhang if I want to transport the modules, and difficult to secure and level initially  The weight of the yard might be a problem.  But no additional hardware needed--just screw to the studs. 

Option B. is my default.  I am looking at brackets like these.  Making sure they are all aligned and level will be a trick--no matter what I do I can still foresee leveling of some kind.  Fortunately, each corner of the modules is built with a leveling screw.  I could ensure a bracket is aligned with each corner section to employ the leveling screws. 

Option C. would put more weight on the brackets than just the layouts, and cost more (wood).

Option D.. Am I missing something obvious?  Any other ideas or suggestions?


 

[dem34]

Since they are just modules. IMHO just doing shelves is probably a better solution.  That way if you also want to change things up its just a case of pulling and replacing modules instead of trying to redo a whole carpentry job.