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Multiple passes with a rail paint pen built up some color… I am fairly satisfied with how the ties look painted, but I feel like I’m not quite there on the rail yet. I’m also not 100% certain that the rail paint is going to remain colorfast… It seems to be bonded with hope and ignorance than an actual chemical bond. (Attachment Link)
Given the amount of difficulty you've had painting, I am curious... When this shipment of rail came in, did you check to see if it electric current passed through whatever was coating it? Any oil type substance should have been removed by any number of things you tried (generally the dishwater and toothbrush would take care of it). It almost seems like there was a conversion varnish or acrylic lacquer or something sprayed on it- which I would think would cause electrical pick-up issues. The other possibility that occurs to me is that Kato just polished that batch to the point there was nothing for the paint to grab on to.My go-to cleaner is 90% alcohol. If that doesn't work, Simple Green. And if necessary, an overnight soak. It doesn't seem to harm most plastics, but takes off most paint. And if you soak plastics, they will smell like Simple Green, no matter how much you rinse them, until you get a coat of paint on. Do NOT try this will resin castings- I've had a couple bad experiences with severe warping. But the polystyrene of the average injected molded N scale carbody seems to come through the ordeal fine.
Ahem... https://conrail1285.com/hacked-unitrack/You don't even need it at the ends.
Depends upon the/your definition of works "fine".Suppose that someone wants to run trains with 'pizza cutter' wheel flanges, for example, that run "fine" on Unitrack but don't run "fine" on a module with non-conforming track. Do you then exclude the trains or the module?
Wellll...that's cool!Thanks Ed!Cheerio!Bob Gilmore
I'm actually working on a "technology demonstrator" module to show it off at Altoona. (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
I'm actually working on a "technology demonstrator" module to show it off at Altoona.
Will those rail joiners on the rear/yellow track work "fine" will all trains/wheels?
The metal part of Kato Joiners is very deep. Can't you coax it to engage the bottom part of the Peck C55 rail? As shown they look like they are too high and be caught by wheel flanges.
I'd assume so, they're the Kato ones. That's a bit of a tricky situation: they're engaging the wrong part of the Peco code 55 "double web". I don't think I'd recommend using the Peco stuff honestly, but I wanted to include it here to show it can be done.
Have you tried the Kato 20-045 conversion track pieces?