Bulletproof Code 30 (and smaller) Track Experiments

[chessie system fan]

Here's my code 30 test track along with some Woodland Scenics ballast sprinkled on but not glued down. That's scrap Atlas code 55 track in the background for comparison.



One of the many ideas bouncing around in my head is a small logging or short line railroad that I can take to shows and display.  But Atlas code 55 just doesn't look right for something so backwoods, from the rail size to those spike heads.  I've seen people here try smaller-sized flat rail (@DKS leading the charge), but soldering every few ties just ain't going to work for me.  And where to get the rail now anyway?



So this is actually Kato code 80 Unitrak rail imbedded into 3D printed ties.     I went with Kato code 80 because it's narrower than Atlas code 80. 





So far, I'm pretty pleased with it. I could see this track system easily used in Z scale too!  Version 2 will have a few modifications.  First, now that I know it works, I'll add tie plate and spike details.  Perhaps a little wood grain too. Second, my printed tie attachment was way too flimsy.  Many ties broke free while trying to string both rails through the slots (though this also added randomness to the placement, which could be useful).  Also, the ties went on great the first time.  But my quick painting of the rails and ties separately left some paint gunk that made stringing on the ties very difficult.  Next time, I will assemble everything first and then paint the whole thing together.

I've thought a little about turnouts.  I've never scratchbuilt one before (so I'm open to any ideas!).  My thought right now would be to make a solid 3D-printed base that has slots for the guard rails to fit up through the bottom.  I'm not sure yet what to do about the frog and closure rails, but the points could have the lower hidden part filed away so they can move over the ties (that code 80 groove is looking very handy here to make everything even).  But the tip of the points would keep the full code 80 rail profile because that hidden T shape seems like a great way to attach the throw bar tie.

 

[Chris333]

Interested. I have a tiny N scale 0-6-0T that would make a neat logging loco.

https://tomamw2.com/products/1361

[u18b]

That is remarkable.

You have my attention. 

Did you destroy a piece of Unitrack and pull the rail out of it?

[Chris333]

Also with Kato rail.  You never have to clean it 

[chessie system fan]

I had an old, broken piece I cannibalized.  But Kato sells flextrack that is 31 inches long.

I finished up a version with tie plates.  That'll go to the printer soon.

[u18b]

Would be interesting to see code 4 turnout next to this.

Remember, I have a code 40 Fasttracks fixture.
It's a curved turnout, but you can use it.
I *might* have a piece of code 40 flex as well.

[craigolio1]

Very cool!!! Following with interest!!

Craig

[sizemore]

That is a great idea to get lower rail profiles. I wonder if this could be potentially pulled off for switches too. The two outer rails would be similar construction, beyond the frog could use it, then would only need to add frog and points. The frog and points could be "drop in" as a seperate component if that makes sense.

The S.

[Chris333]

What is the method to support these strips to the build plate?

[chessie system fan]

Here is test two.  Having a solid base is the way to go.  Assembly was much easier.  I'll have to think of another setup if I want true flex track, though.



I can barely see my tie plates.  The next version will be more hefty.   If this were a final installation, I would mask the rail and tie plates and paint them a different color (and use an airbrush instead of a brush).  That would help, too.



I also misjudged a measurement and my ties are too far apart. This test spacing was even worse than Kato unitrak. 

My tie size and spacing information is somewhat limited.  Does anyone have a good diagram?

[chessie system fan]

Chris, is wasn't anything fancy.  On both tests, I just used the Photon software auto-support setting. The supports ripped off easily before curing.

[Chris333]

Oh OK I figured you printed them flat so the only take like 10 min to finish. Could you taper the bottom edge and print right to the plate? The taper would be similar to your raft so you can pop them off.

[chessie system fan]

I thought about that.  I didn't in the end because I designed the tie plates to have an angle, which I know won't look good printed flat.  But since I can't really see them anyway, I might redesign them flat (and overscale) and see how it looks.

[CNR5529]

You could also print them tilted in the other axis, ie left side of the ties down, right side up. Get the benefit of the angled print but reduce the print time quite a bit.

[chessie system fan]

I thought about that, too. Unfortunately, that's not possible here because the nubs on either side of the rail holding it in place wouldn't be supported.