Rivarossi Heavyweights updating

[TinyTurner]

Regarding updating Rivarossi Heavyweight passenger cars:

ESM 920201 0.553'' 36'' wheels

vs

Inter mountain 60056 0.554" 36'' wheels

FVM 3602 in other posts is out of stock.
The ESM wheels appear to be finer from the pictures I found.  What is better?

The recommended MT couplers are truck mounted.
What are the MT coupler body mount options?
I guess it would mean cutting the coupler mount off the trucks?
Any real benefit to this?

I have some GMM etched brass details on order, perhaps there is somewhere to get details like the roof air vents in cast metal?
How about some corridor connections?

[nickelplate759]

Regarding updating Rivarossi Heavyweight passenger cars:

ESM 920201 0.553'' 36'' wheels

vs

Inter mountain 60056 0.554" 36'' wheels

FVM 3602 in other posts is out of stock.
The ESM wheels appear to be finer from the pictures I found.  What is better?

The recommended MT couplers are truck mounted.
What are the MT coupler body mount options?
I guess it would mean cutting the coupler mount off the trucks?
Any real benefit to this?

I have some GMM etched brass details on order, perhaps there is somewhere to get details like the roof air vents in cast metal?
How about some corridor connections?

Get thee to @Lemosteam 's website : https://www.keystonedetails.com/ and look at the Steps/coupler-mount that he offers here:
https://www.keystonedetails.com/keystone-customs/2016/9/8/n-scale-4pk-steps-for-atlasconcorrivarossi-heavyweight-passenger-cars

There's a link to order from Shapeways.

[OldEastRR]

Yeah, the lemosteam details parts are the best. RR cars look much better with steps.

[nkalanaga]

Yes, if you want body-mounted couplers, you need to remove the truck-mounted ones.

For body mounting, I'd suggest either MT 1015 or 1016.  1025s will work, IF and ONLY IF all of your passenger cars have body mounted couplers, OR you have at least 24 inch radius curves.  If all of your passenger cars will be old Rivarossi heavyweights, all you need to worry about is how far apart you want them.

Either 1015 or 1016 can be mounted far enough back to get the cars as close together as modern Kato or Railsmith cars, and will work fine with truck-mounted couplers, down to at least 16 inch radius.  I've run 12 car trains, through #6 crossovers, with a mix of truck-mounts and 1015 couplers, with no problems.

If you want to add steps, you may have to body-mount the couplers.  If you prefer truck-mounts, I'd try one car, to see if it will go around your curves.

[garethashenden]

FVM 3602 in other posts is out of stock.

The Fox Valley wheels are now available from Scale Trains: https://www.scaletrains.com/fox-valley-models-n-scale-semi-scale-wheelsets-553-axle-atl-cc-imr-mdc.html

[Lemosteam]

Thanks for the props guys.

I do lots of stuff with wheels and I used to really like the FVM wheelsets, BUT, I hate the way the isolated side wheel is attached. It is too easy for the wheel to be popped off the isolator, and too difficult to put it back on when it does.

I have not been able to dislodge a wheel on an ESM set, so those are now my go-to wheelsets ans the profile on both sides is much nicer IMHO.

[randgust]

The new MT 6-wheel trucks have an off-center bolster hole.  The Rivarossi cars have a centered bolster hole.   The older MT trucks with the original coupler extension have a centered hole.   So if you are swapping trucks (which is kinda unnecessary) be aware of that.    I just changed wheels to MT's on mine, put Keystone details steps on them, body mounted the couplers.

I've played with passenger car diaphragms, but my curves are just too tight and they really can't be physically touching.   You can set up the AIM ones so that the car clearance is about .015 between them.

You won't have coupler issues if ALL the cars are the same, but mix a body-mount with a truck mount and hit about a 15" curve and all bets are off.  Because I mix MT and Rivarossi heavyweight cars I had to go to all body mounts EXCEPT for the lead truck in the baggage car, I kept that truck mount.

[thomasjmdavis]

I agree with what Randgust just said, but let me add two notes.  One is that when I changed over to 36" wheels, I needed to shave a tiny bit of plastic off the brakes, and file out the wheelspaces on the truck frames, to allow an extra .00x" to clear the larger wheels (the RR are 33" m/l).  Also, on mine anyway, MTL axles were too short, and so I've used wheelsets with .553 axles.  The cars were made over a period of 40 years, plus Con-cor having a set of tooling, so there may be variations car to car- measuring is recommended.

[peteski]

Here is my take on this wheel upgrade: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=49923

[Bobster]

Good Morning,

Printed roof vents are available in N scale.  I believe it was Lemosteam who worked with some pictures and drawings I sent him several years back.  Sorry I can't remember more of the details right now.  I have a set at home.  There are two styles, Garland, curved, and those with a fan, box with a fan inside.  The pictures are from a 1923 era Pullman parlor car.

Gotta return to work,
Bobster out

[Bill H]

I do lots of stuff with wheels and zi used to really like the FVM wheelsets, BUT, I hate the way the isolated side wheel is attached. It is too easy for the wheel to be popped off the isolator, and too dicpfficult to put it back on when it does.

I have not been able to dislodge a wheel on an ESM set, so those are now my go-to wheelsets ans the profile on both sides is much nicer IMHO.

Have to agree, I had numerous problems with multiple runs of FVMs with the tire coming loose on the insulated side and not being able to re-seat the tire properly. ESMs have been faultless, now my go to.

Kind regards,
Bill

[nickelplate759]

The new MT 6-wheel trucks have an off-center bolster hole.  The Rivarossi cars have a centered bolster hole.   The older MT trucks with the original coupler extension have a centered hole.   So if you are swapping trucks (which is kinda unnecessary) be aware of that.    I just changed wheels to MT's on mine, put Keystone details steps on them, body mounted the couplers.

I've played with passenger car diaphragms, but my curves are just too tight and they really can't be physically touching.   You can set up the AIM ones so that the car clearance is about .015 between them.

You won't have coupler issues if ALL the cars are the same, but mix a body-mount with a truck mount and hit about a 15" curve and all bets are off.  Because I mix MT and Rivarossi heavyweight cars I had to go to all body mounts EXCEPT for the lead truck in the baggage car, I kept that truck mount.

When I used @Lemosteam 's RR retrofit steps, I did ditch the Rivarossi trucks and substitue MT trucks, but I had to add a new bolster pivot in the car floor to complement the off-center bolster hole in the truck.

[Lemosteam]

Good Morning,

Printed roof vents are available in N scale.  I believe it was Lemosteam who worked with some pictures and drawings I sent him several years back.  Sorry I can't remember more of the details right now.  I have a set at home.  There are two styles, Garland, curved, and those with a fan, box with a fan inside.  The pictures are from a 1923 era Pullman parlor car.

Gotta return to work,
Bobster out

Yessir. They are still available!

[Lemosteam]

When I used @Lemosteam 's RR retrofit steps, I did ditch the Rivarossi trucks and substitue MT trucks, but I had to add a new bolster pivot in the car floor to complement the off-center bolster hole in the truck.

You can just drill a 1/8” hole in the new location for a new bolster, or just fill the center sill with styrene. Drill a 0.75” hole for the original bolster pin at the shifted center. Probably better for coupling if you choose to put the hole on the side closest to the coupler. Less transvers angle for the coupler to deal with.

I do have a question regarding my steps with integrated coupler pocket. How does the integrated coupler pocket perform and what might be the smallest radius? Would like to add that info to my website.

[chessie system fan]

Before expending much time and money on these cars, it's worth asking if it's worth it compared to buying the better quality (and probably cheaper in the end since you don't need etched steps) Micro Trains heavyweights.  If it's the sleeper or coach, I'd say start with the Micro Trains options and upgrade those as they're more accurate renditions of the same prototypes.  The other cars are Santa Fe prototypes not made elsewhere and are still worth upgrading.