Scratchbuild Project - Sperry Detector Car in N Scale

[nickelplate759]

It won't give the 3D effect, but sealed window frame decals are available.

https://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=7d24ac0445ba6978fbf9cea47f68b5d8&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=60-1423&Store_Code=MD&search=window&offset=&filter_cat=&PowerSearch_Begin_Only=&sort=&range_low=&range_high=

[BCR 570]

Hi Dwight:

With respect to window gaskets, there are several options.  I had not seen the Microscale decal set before, but I have seen adhesive sheet from Tamiya which can be cut into desired shapes and sizes for application to models.

I have also used the method whereby a sheet of .005" styrene is cut to a shape slightly larger than the window with rounded corners and glued over the window opening.  The window is then filed out leaving a gasket around the window opening.

This photograph of a project from 2013 shows this method on a boxcar modified for outfit service:




The window framing for the Sperry car is coming up very soon as I have almost finished assembly of the sides. 


Tim

[Dwight in Toronto]

Thanks guys - those are interesting alternatives. 

I assume that with the decal approach, the decals go on the window “glass”. 

I like the convincing look of the .005” styrene “skin”, and I can see how that works nicely if the window frame is airbrushed the same colour as the coach sides. Somewhat trickier to do if one wants the frame to have that aluminum/stainless appearance.

I’m in no big hurry, so I’ll keep watching Tim’s progression, and perhaps a few more hints/tricks/tips/pointers might still be forthcoming.

[Dwight in Toronto]

I think I may have stumbled onto a solution for my window detail.

The material you see on the left in this pic is lead tape (as in Pb, the element).  It has a weak adhesive backing, and golf course pro shops use it to fine-tune the weighting of golf clubs.  I’ve used it to add weight to N scale models, but just tried it out as passenger coach sealed window framing.

The benefits are many:
First, it is very thin … my calipers indicate 0.010”.
Second, it is incredibly easy to cut with an Xacto knife, razor blade etc.
Third, it is wondrously flexible, malleable and conformable; unlike wire, there is no bounce-back … you can tuck it into corners etc and it stays put.
Fourth, it has that aluminum/stainless steel lustre that mimics the extrusions used on the real thing.

I just cut three lengths, making them the same depth as the 0.030” styrene used for my coach walls.  It took all of 5 minutes to tweezer-poke them into place within the three left-most windows (I left one window partially complete, just to convey how nicely the tiny lead strips can be manipulated).




So, what I’ll do is finish up the car sides, airbrush the burgundy paint, insert the lead frames, and fix them in place with a smidgen of low viscosity CA glue applied to the back-side seams.  The glazing, of course, will be the last thing to go in as the final interior component.

Whew, I feel much relieved.  Here’s hoping this small discovery might help others someday.

And Tim, no more highjacking, I promise.  I’ll be starting my own build thread shortly.

[peteski]

Keep in mind that in time Lead will likely oxidize, turning from shiny metallic silver into dull gray.  I suppose you could clear coat it as that will prevent the oxidation. I'm sure others will also chime in stating that it is also a health hazard.

[Angus Shops]

My technique for window gaskets (works for both black ‘rubber’ gaskets and silver metal frames) involves cutting the window ‘glass’ (.010 clear styrene, or the clear plastic sheet that comes with Microtrains cars in their jewel boxes) cut to fit the window opening. (Yes, individual windows as opposed to the more typical car length window glass, but I wanted fully flush window glazing. My cars are resin castings that include an inner ‘ridge’ cast into the body shell on the top and bottom of the onto which the glass ‘glass’ is supported while glueing (Micro crystal clear or what ever it’s called). The ‘ridge’ is hidden behind the gasket when the window is installed and isn’t visible). I typically cut many more than I think I’ll need. I use extra fine Sharpie marker in either black or silver and trace around the edge of the ‘glass’, holding the pen tip against the .010 wide edge of the glass to get the thinnest possible line to show on ‘front’ of the window. You can usually trace all for sides of the window with black as it dries fast and permanently, but I do two passes for the silver (2 sides, let dry, remaining 2 sides). You will mess a few up (hence the extras) and you need a steady hand but the results are credible.

Incidentally, fun fact - this is being written in Nagasaki Japan. I’m here with my daughter Ellie at a health systems research conference. I’ve been riding all over Japan on every type of train imaginable, from top level Shinkansen to single car locals. I’ve got to say, as amazing as the Shinkansen is, so far they seem to be mostly underground - long tunnels with brief bursts of daylight…

Not spending much time in hobby shops other than a quick visit to a smaller store in Tokyo, but I was very impressed by the huge variety of Japanese prototypes available.

[nickelplate759]

Keep in mind that in time Lead will likely oxidize, turning from shiny metallic silver into dull gray.  I suppose you could clear coat it as that will prevent the oxidation. I'm sure others will also chime in stating that it is also a health hazard.

Please don't lick the trains.

[MK]

I’ve got to say, as amazing as the Shinkansen is, so far they seem to be mostly underground - long tunnels with brief bursts of daylight…

What line Shinkansen?  Must be down south.  I've ridden the Tokaido Sanyo line (N700A/S) seven times and have experienced the opposite.  Mostly daylight with brief bursts of short tunnels through mountains.  The fastest I clocked it was 185 MPH.

[Angus Shops]

Yes, you’re right, our routes so far were in mountainous areas.

[BCR 570]

Carbody Sides (cont.)
Back to the task at hand.  Next up are the blank panels and last windows for the recording room.  As this is the last compartment, I need to make very sure that the sides come out exactly even, so a comparison of the parts to be used is in order to verify that they are the same width.  These are the blank panels and separators:




The blank panel and adjacent separator for the left side were installed, again using my handy styrene gauges:




Then the separator for the adjacent window, using the gauge for the window spacing:




The same is done for the right hand side - here is the blank panel and window there:




And here are the two sides after installation of the blank panels and separators, with another check at the end using a square:




This brings us to the rear doors, which means it is finally time to install the lower car sides, belt rails and letterboards.  So that is next.


Tim

[BCR 570]

I think I may have stumbled onto a solution for my window detail.

Looks good Dwight!  Will be watching with interest.

Tim

[BCR 570]

Carbody Sides (cont.)
I have made steady progress during the last several days, so much so that I havent had time to process all the photos!  Lets start getting you all caught up.

I am now at the forward door posts for the rear entry doors.  This is where the lower car sides, belt rail and letterboard all terminate, so they have to go in now.  Their addition will help make these assemblies to look a little more like actual car sides!  Here are the two sides with styrene stock cut for the lower car sides, belt rails and letterboards.  I already installed the lower car side and belt rail on the right side forward of the freight door, so there is only a short section of each remaining on that side.  The pieces for the forward door posts are also shown.  All of these parts were cut long and squared off at one end:




I dealt with the short section of carbody side and belt rail for the right side first.  Here they are after being cut to exact length on the NWSL Chopper:




The parts were test-fitted in place together with the piece for the forward door post to confirm that they are exactly the desired length:




After gluing those parts in, the letterboard was cut to exact length and added for a test-fit with the door post:




Here is the right side with the lower car side, belt rail and letterboard glued in place:




Now over to the left side, where the parts to be added are much longer, extending from the galley back to the recording room:




Here are the lower car side and belt rail being glued into place after cutting to exact length:




The letterboard then went in, and is seen here in place with a square to check that it ends exactly with the lower parts:




As these were fairly sizeable parts, the two sides were then weighted overnight while the plastic cement cured:




Here are the two sides with the lower car sides, belt rails and letterboards added.  The surrounds for the rear entry doors are next.


Tim

[Dwight in Toronto]

Yup, looking a lot more like real car sides now.

Just a comment/observation from someone new to scratchbuilding with styrene - if I had been tackling this project, I probably would have glued down the letterboard, belt rail and car side pieces first.  My newbie thinking would have been that those nice, long, parallel lengths would then make it easier to pop in the various window separators and blanks and whatnot.

The way Tim started in on this initially struck me as a counter-intuitive procedure, but I now see the wisdom and benefits of addressing the construction in this way.  Great learning!

[BCR 570]

if I had been tackling this project, I probably would have glued down the letterboard, belt rail and car side pieces first.

Hi Dwight:

That is how I built my test side section (see first page of this thread).  I could have gone that route for the sides but I wanted to be able to get a square in and up against the separators to ensure they were exactly perpendicular, so tried the alternate method of adding the sides, belt rails and letterboards later.  These types of projects are always great learning opportunities where one can try out different methods.  This approach has worked out fairly well for me.

Tim

[BCR 570]

Carbody Sides (cont.)
The blank panel on the left side of the recording room has grab irons leading up to the roof, so now is a good time to locate and drill those holes.  This arrangement is identical to that on the right side of the motor compartment up front.  These two sets of grab irons connect with the running board on the roof.  On each set of grab irons there is a metal cover with a "Danger High Voltage" decal, which I presume to be a safety cover.  There are six grab irons from the bottom side sill up to the roof line.

The BLMA template for 18" grab irons was used to locate the holes.  Due to the raised profile of the belt rail, it was necessary to tape the template in place on the car side:




The locations for the holes were then pricked with a pin (through the tape and the template and onto the styrene):




The holes were then drilled out with a #80 drill in a pin vise:




The safety cover was cut from #126 .020"  x.125: styrene to a length of 24 inches.  Here is a test fit of the grab irons and safety cover:




Photographs show the safety cover over the fourth and fifth grab iron from the bottom on the left side.  This is also what I did for the right side of the motor compartment as it is what I saw in a photograph recorded in 1976.  However, upon consulting a 1977 photograph, the right side cover is over the top two grab irons, so it would appear that these covers were moveable - perhaps they clamped onto the grab irons and could be positioned higher or lower.  And then in 1980 the safety covers appear to have been replaced with taller ones which cover a total of three grab irons.

This montage shows the three variations from 1976 (left), 1977 (centre) and 1980 (right):




As I am modelling 1977, I elected to modify my arrangement on the right side by locating and drilling the holes for the fourth grab iron up from the bottom.  This photograph shows the front end of the right side below with the modification, and the rear end of the left side above with the recently completed grab iron holes:




The surrounds for the rear entry doors are next.


Tim