Kato N scale Big Boy ESU LokSound install

[peteski]

Thanks Pete. 
 ‘The Master Installer’ most certainly has an entirely rational reason - just wondering what it is!

Me too. 

[Jbub]

Thanks Pete. 

Still curious as to why Kelley used the “full size” 58420, with its inherently tight fit, rather than one of the N decoders.  ‘The Master Installer’ most certainly has an entirely rational reason - just wondering what it is!

My guess is availability. The micro's have been hard to source so if you can use a larger decoder that is more readably available, that leaves the smaller decoder for a model that needs it. Kelley does A LOT of installs so he needs the stock.
Plus, there's only a .25 amp difference between the full size and micro/nano. 1 amp vs .75 amp respectively.

[peteski]

Both Kato coreless motor will likely not take more than 200mA at stall (so even two will both be anywhere near the nano's current rating).

[nightmare0331]

Any particular advantage to using a “full size” 58420 decoder, instead of, say, a micro, or nano, or even a 58731 for that matter? 

Is the larger decoder required for powering the two motors (ie - necessary, or nice-to-have?). 

The smaller decoders would, of course, be an effortless fit in that cavernous tender.  Just curious.

A few reasons:

I knew the full sized V5's would fit just looking at the tender because prior to the 58741 'kato usa' board being offered, that's how I had installed sound in maybe 1000 FEF3's.  So...tender back it's muscle memory.

The Kato coreless motors are very low draw.  The HO Kato P42 used a similar 2 coreless motor setup.  For those V5 full sized were utilized and never had an issue.

I have Micros here, but recently they've cost me more.  The full sized ones fit just fine in the tender.  That said parts is parts, so if I had to get some Big Boys done and all I had were micros or someone provided it with a big boy, they'd be getting installed.

There is more than one way to skin a cat on these.

I've since built another Big Boy and have a couple more to install LokSound in once I get through a pile of ALC42's and some other random installs.

I personally wouldn't use the 58731 for this. 

Anywhoo...don't think too hard on my decoder choice.  There's more than one way to skin a cat on this.  (please don't skin an actual cat for these.)

Enjoy!

Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com

[Dwight in Toronto]

Thanks KD … clarification appreciated.

[nightmare0331]

when I swore I'd never do another one...I'm installing more.  lol

Anywhoo...not really a tutorial...just aimless rambling.

Enjoy!

Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com

[Tjack757]

when I swore I'd never do another one...I'm installing more.  lol

Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com

I have the Bigboy dissembled with the exception of the front truck/headlight assemble.
Are you wiring the motors in series or parallel?

Thanks Todd

[nightmare0331]

I have the Bigboy dissembled with the exception of the front truck/headlight assemble.
Are you wiring the motors in series or parallel?

Thanks Todd

I'm wiring the motors in parallel.

Hope this helps!

Side note...I apparently am a sucker for punishement and have even more coming.   

Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com

[peteski]

Those are 12V motors. If wired in series, they would max out at half their speed (since each motor would only see 6V coming from the decoder)

[Tjack757]

Never give up on your dreams, no matter how painful and difficult your journey is..........

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[nightmare0331]

Never give up on your dreams, no matter how painful and difficult your journey is..........

(Attachment Link)

<snort>

it's fun to dig down to that little bastard, isn't it?

Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com

[peteski]

<snort>

it's fun to dig down to that little bastard, isn't it?

Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com

Actually it is not all that bad once you lean the proper disassembly sequence, but the entire design of this model is way out there.

While I'm a huge fan of Kato models, on this one they have jumped the shark again.  By "again" I mean the first time they did that was when they introduced the revised 3-axle trucks with all those fine-tooth gears and sprung middle wheelset.  And 6 idler gears?!  That is just asking for trouble. While they are superb runners, all those gears can very easily get clogged up with the tiniest amount of debris (which are always present on ballasted track). Maybe not much of a problem on the sterile Unitrack, but most American layouts don't use Unitrak.

Then while the sprung middle wheelset is a very clever feature (as I see it, to maximize electrical contact), it is very delicate and prone to getting damaged.   Also, the bearing plates made from thinner metal are more prone to damage.  The Kato's original low-friction truck design is still the best.  It's robust, and works really well.

[TW877]

Never give up on your dreams, no matter how painful and difficult your journey is..........

(Attachment Link)

Managed to get that far as well.
I cut the board just right behind the resistor, eliminating the contact pads, so that the light is separated from any current through the frame. Then, using the resistor and the diode as solder pads, added some very thin wire to power the LED. Don't remove or bridge the resistor though, unless you want a short moment of live steam from your Big Boy...
After fumbling the board back into the front truck housing I used the small open recess at the end of that housing to get the wires to the top center of the gear housing. Using that slot on top to reach the gear tower, then there is a further slot on the right side of the gear tower to get to another slot on the ouside of the boiler frame. That will take the wires to the foward steam dome and from there it is quite obvious as to where you can thread the wires into the cab and then via the drawbar to the tender.

Modified board:


Wire routing:


Chris

[TW877]

Actually it is not all that bad once you lean the proper disassembly sequence, but the entire design of this model is way out there.

So true. I highly praise Kato for their high precision engineering, everything fits perfectly and not a single drop of glue to be seen. Even the thinnest handrails are easily pulled out of their mounting holes and will plug back in with ease. But it takes a lot of patience and once in a while a cooling break throughout the disassembly of that model...

[MK]

(Sorry, can't add any pictures. Low post count? Was able to do so earlier though  )

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=56846.0

Would love to see pictures.  Upload them to your Gallery first then link them in your posts.