"Tea" - Trak Modules.

[Sokramiketes]

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=137298&clickid=related-slider

12" x 24" gray PVC sheet.  $4/sheet.  That would get you one 10" and one 14", so two sheets per module?  $8 total?  (plus shipping...)

[chessie system fan]

  (plus shipping...)

That's exactly the sort of thing I'm looking for. It's a pity shipping is $19. 

[wm3798]

Why not laminate 1 thickness of 1/8" to one side instead of 1/16" to both sides?  Masonite can be had pretty economically in a 2'x4' handy panel, and would just have to be ripped to width, probably providing enough material for a bunch of modules.

Or did I misunderstand the question?

Lee

[chessie system fan]

I think he needs 14x10 or 14x12.  That's the catch unless he can CA the 4" pieces together along the edges and be ok with that.

I'd be okay using multiple sheets of material, if that's the best I can find. I did look at that Hobby Lobby basswood, but by the time I purchase the number of pieces needed, it wouldn't be cost effective. 

Gluing the craft foam. I bet I could make that work. Maybe lay it on a waxy, flat surface and soak it with a diluted wood glue and paint mixture. That might make it stiff enough.

Lee, I had that thought as well.  If I have to do it, I will.  This wouldn't matter at all if I was modeling something flat. But I'm aiming for a Pennsylvania mountain scene, which means that the side and rear are likely to be seen by the general public given that most modules are flat. So the ultimate goal is to have neatly painted sides to hide the imperfect hand-carved foam inside.  I'd prefer to have two classy sides instead of just one.

[wm3798]

It's just a spacer.  Tack it on, then use your scenery material to blend it in.  A little putty, a little paint, make it something that it ain't!

Save the chin rubbing and head scratching for the important stuff.

Lee

[chessie system fan]

I went to Michael's this afternoon and scoured the entire store for 1/16th inch thick material of any sort.  I had no idea when I started this project that finding something would be so difficult.  I did find some balsa sheets, but instead of buying them for $16, I found some large craft foam sheets for $1.75.  I painted one with a wood glue mixture and it's drying now on a flat surface.  If that fails, I'll just buy the balsa wood sheets.   

At least the doubles I build won't have this issue as I'll just add 1/8th to each end--a much simpler problem!

[chessie system fan]

I can report that smearing wood glue on the craft foam didn't make it firm, so I have changed tactics.  One of this module's purposes is to be a standard that I can use for future module ends.  Consequently, the hill slopes on each end must be exactly the same so that when I construct future modules I can connect this one on either side and the hill slopes will match.

To that end, I made a paper template and with it carved two foam sheets with my hot wire knife that are identical.  They are now glued into place.



As you can see, I'm using two other trays to keep the foam sides straight while the glue is drying. I didn't have any wax paper, so I grabbed some non-stick foil instead.  The middle is free white beaded foam from work, which I chose because it's perfectly square to help support the sides.  It will get covered by blue foam for the mountainside.

I will attach the 1/16th craft foam to the sides later.

[ski]

Did you glue the wood "roadbed" to the top?

I am thinking of ordering some of these trays to experiment with.

[chessie system fan]

I did, yes. I marked a line where the edge of the front track should go and used that as my line for the board.  One side of the board was already square so I butted that up to the edge and glued a thin layer down and then clamped each end while it dried.  I later sawed the excess length off the other end.  You can see I've drilled and sanded smooth the feeder holes also.  I'll screw down the track once I get farther along on the foam scenery.

[chessie system fan]

Work continues on. Considering I've never tried creating scenery before, I'd rate it as "not bad," but there will be a few strategically-placed bushes here and there.  The mountain slope is finished and I have glued the 1/16th craft foam to the right side.  I'll glue the left side tomorrow. 



For the front, each corner is shaped from wood just incase the module gets bumped someday.  And I went ahead and tried different shades of brown to get rid of the blue foam color as well as to experiment and see which rock color looks best.  Sand Patch has a reddish-looking sandstone.  I can't say I've gotten it perfectly yet, but the closest I've come so far (seen on the rocky area still drying) is a mixture of barn red, dark orange, darkish gray and chestnut brown.  I don't suppose anyone up there in southern Pennsylvania wants to go over there and get me some dirt samples?    The colors in photos are all over the place depending on the location, weather, time of year, time of day, the camera used, the age of the film, and the photo editing software.

Given that I had the scraps of lumber and foam already lying around, I'd say I have about $8 or $9 invested in this project so far (plus a jar of lightweight spackling paste).

[dem34]

Work continues on. Considering I've never tried creating scenery before, I'd rate it as "not bad," but there will be a few strategically-placed bushes here and there.  The mountain slope is finished and I have glued the 1/16th craft foam to the right side.  I'll glue the left side tomorrow. 


For the front, each corner is shaped from wood just incase the module gets bumped someday.  And I went ahead and tried different shades of brown to get rid of the blue foam color as well as to experiment and see which rock color looks best.  Sand Patch has a reddish-looking sandstone.  I can't say I've gotten it perfectly yet, but the closest I've come so far (seen on the rocky area still drying) is a mixture of barn red, dark orange, darkish gray and chestnut brown.  I don't suppose anyone up there in southern Pennsylvania wants to go over there and get me some dirt samples?    The colors in photos are all over the place depending on the location, weather, time of year, time of day, the camera used, the age of the film, and the photo editing software.

Given that I had the scraps of lumber and foam already lying around, I'd say I have about $8 or $9 invested in this project so far (plus a jar of lightweight spackling paste).

Since its your first time. Dirt I would say you just need close enough. Grasses will cover most and as long as you are close nobody will really fault the smaller patches. If you want a budget and foolproof tree method. Box filter material can be harvested on the cheap from a low grade HVAC filter from the Home depot, spray it black, dip in dilute white glue, then shake your preferred foam color over top. Placed in bunches they cover up a lot of rockwork sins.

[chessie system fan]

Good thoughts.  For reference, this is the color rock I'm aiming for.

CSX 7023 (GE ES44AC) West Portal Sand Patch, Pennsylvania by Terry Redeker, on Flickr

[Ed Kapuscinski]

It's funny. I was just thinking about saying "that scenery is way too severe unless you're modeling right outside Sandpatch Tunel".

[chessie system fan]

 

That's likely the next module set.  This single is just practice and a scene spacer.

[dem34]

I forgot, but you can also do what I and @DKS did and cheat by using the amazing Cripplebrush Creek rubber rocks. Just spray em a rusty patina.