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Your request does not seem to be clear as to whether you want decoders in the cars, or just power them from the DCC (packet) track power.I don't believe that there is such a system where only lighting/functon packets would be sent. Not even sure why that would be needed. The power to all the decoder-equipped vehicles (locos, illuminated cars, cabooses) is carried by the packets sent through the track, many times a second. The power supply part of the decoders doesn't care what types of packets the power comes from. To simplify things, all the decoders can be programmed for the same address, or if you want to control individual pieces of rolling stock, program them for different addresses,to me there doesn't seem to be a reason to design a dedicated DCC system just for lighting. Just use one of the entry level DCC systems like Digitrax Zephyr, NCE Power Cab, or several other less known command stations, to just power all the tracks. Most of the entry-level DCC systems come with a wall-wart type of power supply which can easily be replaced with a battery. Make sure to install a fuse near the battery so protect from any unforeseen accidental shorts. Unlike wall-warts, a battery can supply very high current and if there was s short, it can melt the wiring. A fuse near the battery will protect from any such incidents.As an owner of one, I think that NCE Power Cab would be ideally suited for this project. It is a fully-featured DCC system in a handheld throttle (easily fits in a tackle box), can supply 2A of current to the track (likely more than enough for your needs), and is is quite intuitive to learn and use. But if you need LocoNet then a Digitrax system would be needed. OR one of the less kown DCC systems which can interface with LocoNet. Number of tracks is irrelevant - only the total amount of needed amperage is what counts.As far as the motor in the loco goes, you can keep the original mobile decoders and just keep the speed dialed at zero (stopped). To be sure the model doesn't move, you can also disconnect the motor from the decoder. Or you can likely set the speed table in the decoder to all zeros (never tried that). Or install function-only decoders in the loco. Alternately you can just disconnect the motor leads/wires from the decoder. That way it is guaranteed the loco will not move.
That's why I described multiple ways to immobilize a loco. Disconnecting or removing a motor is the most reliable way to prevent a loco from moving.Sorry that I wasted my time posting my message. Best of luck with your project. Curious what other brilliant DCC ideas others will come up with.
@peteski , you did not waste your time. I appreciated the comment. I guess I thought I wrote it in such a way as to imply homemade. What I am looking to accomplish is pulling the module out, setting it up, connecting it quickly (and your point regarding battery voltage is well taken) turning on the lights and taking pictures. Not sure I could do that quickly with a multi device modular (and still quite expensive) off the shelf system.Looking at the DCC-EX, it may be quite a viable setup for my needs, although, I may have to settle for using the throttle.
Fair enough. I'm still unclear about your lighting requirements.Let me see if I understand this correctly. You don't want to put DCC decoders in every illuminated car, right? Just standard lighting circuit powered from the track? DCC signal is only needed for the locomotive headlights? And you don't even need them to tun on or off - just continuously stay turned on for the photo session?
@Lemosteam Ok so the car lights are easy , just use a 9 v battery . The loco headlights will need some type of DCC system to turn them on . However , how are you at Photoshop ? Could you just photoshop the headlight ? Mike
@Lemosteam Ok so the car lights are easy , just use a 9 v battery . The loco headlights will need some type of DCC system to turn them on .
Yes. The cars are already track powered by DCD (or DC).Just don’t want to have any movement.
No, no they don't. They turn on just fine with a 9V battery.... At least here with a Loksound 5 in some random loco I just picked off the layout to prove the point. And yeah, in this case, the sound turns on too. I'm an ESU guy, although I also tried the one and only loco with a dinotrax decoder in my fleet and it worked perfectly too..... Reverse the polarity of the 9V if the wrong lights come on in that case.Like I previously mentioned, just disable the DC operation..... A very good idea anyhow in my opinion, especially if the concern if the locos are going to accidentally run. Its arguably the "safest" option given the "I don't want a throttle to accidently run stuff" requirement.
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Topic: So I have this idea and wonder if it can be built. (Read 1107 times)
