SOLVED: Issue with Kato N Scale ALC-42 Siemens Charger and DN163K4A decoder

[Bart1701]

I received my Kato N Scale ALC-42 Siemens Charger the other day. It has the same excellent quality and running characteristics of any Kato locomotive. I am pleased with it. (I also have the Bachmann SC-44 Charger which is an amazing piece of equipment. Of course, it cost 3 times the price of the Kato, so I would expect it to have a lot more features and detail than the Kato locomotive!)

I installed the Digitrax decoder in it that Kato recommended. Figuring out how to remove the body shell was quite a challenge. Their instructions for installing the corridor work lights gave some hints on how to remove it, and watching their product video also helped a lot. The separation between the body shell and the lower "skirting" piece is between the white and red stripes/ When I took the locomotive out of the box, the seam between the red and white stripes was absolutely invisible, even under magnification. Thus, I couldn't initially figure out how to remove the body shell.

When I got the decoder installed and put the body shell back on, the accompanying pictures show some serious gaps between the body and the skirting now. From the front, you can also see that the frame and body are not fitting flush any longer. The front right side of the frame has the little nub on it that looks like it should pop into a corresponding opening on the body or window insert, but the window insert doesn't go down that far and the body shell is perfectly smooth. There is nothing for that nub to pop into.

I am guessing that the Digitrax decoder may be a bit thicker than the Kato light board - which is causing the body shell not to fit as well as it originally did?  Does this seem like a likely conclusion? If so, how would you suggest fixing this issue?

Thanks,
Bart

[martin station]

I agree it's a great looking and running locomotive, but removing the shell is really difficult. If I had not watched the video that Train World had on YouTube, I don't think I would have figured it out as the instructions printed on the inside of the box were not at all clear about having to separate the bottom of the shell from the thin frame skirt. On my first attempt the front truck fell out and then came apart, also when I finally did get them seperated the skirting broke on the left hand side right in front of the fuel tank. I did after getting the light kit installed, get the front truck put back together and reinstalled and after testing everything, reinstalled the shell and skirting. The skirting seemed to have a lot of elasticity to it and like yours, didn't fit completely flush after putting it back together but only a small amount. As far as the break, once back together and snapped back into place, it fit tight enough that I just used some Tamiya extra thin cement to keep it together.
Ralph

[kscessandriver]

Having just taken one apart and put it partially back together right now, I'd ask, are you sure you got everything into place as it was? Mine snapped right back together as it was. I don't feel like the board being thicker would cause that on one side only, it should be both sides.

[oakcreekco]

Yes, over the years of servicing Katos. I've learned that when assembled correctly, that they will look just like they should.

If everything is aligned as it should be, the parts will snap fit together as designed.

If they don't, something is hanging up during the reassembly.

I doubt that it's the decoder. There's tabs somewhere that aren't aligned.

[martin station]

Yeah, they do have interlocking tabs to help hold everything together and I was able to get mine all snapped back into place. Mine and some others that I have seen still have a very slight bow where we inserted our fingernails and in my case toothpicks to help spread the shell. But they are only very slight demples or dips and nothing like yours.
Ralph

[Bart1701]

UPDATE: I opened up the locomotive and replaced the Digitrax decoder with the original Kato light board. The body shell then snapped on nice and tight with none of the gaps shown in my photos. Then I reinstalled the Digitrax board and still cannot get the shell to fit tightly. Repeated this process more than once and the shell always fits tight with the Kato board, but never with the Digitrax board.

Called Kato and got some less than helpful support. The guy just told me to make sure no wires were in the way (of which there are none with a plug-and-play board that just slides in) and to keep taking it out and putting it in until the shell would fit snugly. I really don't think it should take multiple tries to get this installed.

I have opened a ticket with Digitrax to see if they might be any more helpful.

My gut tells me that some of the rectangular black "thingies" (not a real technical term, but I think you know what I mean) on top of the Digitrax board may be hitting the underside of the top part of the body shell and are not allowing it the body to seat properly.

What do you all think? Specifically, have any of you used the Digitrax decoder and had the body seat snugly?

Thanks,
Bart

[Bart1701]

Yeah, they do have interlocking tabs to help hold everything together and I was able to get mine all snapped back into place. Mine and some others that I have seen still have a very slight bow where we inserted our fingernails and in my case toothpicks to help spread the shell. But they are only very slight demples or dips and nothing like yours.
Ralph

Ralph,

Did you install a Digitrax decoder in addition to the light board in the rear?

Thanks,
Bart

[peteski]

Whenever I need to find internal clearances in the shell I take a small ball of modeling clay, stick it gently (not to squish it) on the to of the chassis (or in your case on the tallest component of the decoder, then place tiny square of very soft, thin plastic film (Saran cling wrap is perfect).  Then put the shell on, then remove it.  Because of the plastic film the clay will not stick to the shell and it will clearly show you how much (if any) clearance is there.

[nickelplate759]

Whenever I need to find internal clearances in the shell I take a small ball of modeling clay, stick it gently (not to squish it) on the to of the chassis (or in your case on the tallest component of the decoder, then place tiny square of very soft, thin plastic film (Saran cling wrap is perfect).  Then put the shell on, then remove it.  Because of the plastic film the clay will not stick to the shell and it will clearly show you how much (if any) clearance is there.

Great idea!  This is a problem I've struggled with multiple times - gonna try this next time.

[peteski]

Great idea!  This is a problem I've struggled with multiple times - gonna try this next time.

You're welcome George - I use this trick quite often.

Of course more clay can be used to find out clearance of te entire width (ore even length)  under the shell.  Just use a longer roll of clay, and appropriately sized piece of Saran wrap.

I'm also surprised at the problems taking the shell off.  As I mentioned in another thread, it should only take 2 toothpicks placed in the right areas and the shell should come loose.  The trick is to locate where the latches are and the toothpick has to be inserted between the metal chassis and the "window glass" piece (which is the female part of the latch).

For an example see https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=55410.msg761300#msg761300 and the following couple of posts.

[martin station]

Ralph,

Did you install a Digitrax decoder in addition to the light board in the rear?

Thanks,
Bart

No, light board only.
Ralph

[Bart1701]

PROBLEM RESOLVED!

I was able to correct the issue with my decoder by removing some plastic from one of the projections on the inside top of the body shell. The body shell now sits snugly against the lower skirting with no gaps showing. Passing this along in case others run into the same issue.

Thanks,
Bart

[samusi01]

@Bart1701

Have you noticed this mod affecting the rear light in any way? I have found the same thing, on a pair of ALC-42s: shell will not seat snugly on frame after installing a Digitrax DN163K4A.

Thanks,

Sam

--edited to add--

Also, after closely viewing the decoder, I think I'll try working on only the longitudinal, rearward pointing portions. I'll leave the lateral part at the front as is for the moment. First, though, is finding one of the MU cables which went flying off...

[Bart1701]

@Bart1701

Have you noticed this mod affecting the rear light in any way? I have found the same thing, on a pair of ALC-42s: shell will not seat snugly on frame after installing a Digitrax DN163K4A.

Thanks,

Sam

--edited to add--

Also, after closely viewing the decoder, I think I'll try working on only the longitudinal, rearward pointing portions. I'll leave the lateral part at the front as is for the moment. First, though, is finding one of the MU cables which went flying off...

Sam,

I just checked the unit. Front lights, rear lights, and corridor lighting are all working OK.

I also had one of the MU cables in the rear fall off. It landed on my desk, so I still have it. Tried putting it in where I thought it belonged and it was becoming quite a challenge. I have left it off for now since there's usually a passenger car attached and it's hard to notice a missing MU cable. If there were MU cables on both sides, then the other one fell into a black hole on me!

Bart

[samusi01]

Thank you, appreciate it.