N-Possible Coupler Announcement (Nashville 2022)

[peteski]

These couplers are not compatible with any other N scale couplers????

They are accurately scaled and as such they are incompatible with most of the oversize N scale knuckle couplers on the market today.  You have to make a complete move to N-Possibles.

[C855B]

They are accurately scaled and as such they are incompatible with most of the oversize N scale knuckle couplers on the market today.  You have to make a complete move to N-Possibles.

I believe Andrew said somewhere along the line that his are somewhat compatible with MTL TSC, another near-scale knuckle. Not fully operationally, of course, but you can apparently run a train with a mix of the two.

Personally, I really like the TSC for their appearance and no-slinky operation, but they can be stubborn to kiss-couple if not perfectly aligned, and uncoupling requires a dental pick. Also, the lack of conversions is a serious hindrance; I don't have the time to hack on every not-a-boxcar in the fleet with molded-on "1015-compatible" boxes.

I'm looking forward to the N-Possible and may well jump ship if it's everything we've heard and seen so far.

[Mark5]

They are accurately scaled and as such they are incompatible with most of the oversize N scale knuckle couplers on the market today.  You have to make a complete move to N-Possibles.

Kind of like when we moved on from this:



To Kadee Microtrains couplers. 

If these pan out as expected, this will be a huge paradigm shift.

Meanwhile, I wait patiently - hoping these will be widely available by the time I start my next layout (summer).



Mark

[Chris333]

What if these were molded in engineering plastic. I know there was a guy doing injection molding in his garage.

[garethashenden]

For those of you who have used them, how are they at uncoupling? Most N scale couplers are a pain to uncouple. Ideally these separate as easily as they couple, but only when asked. What tools and techniques are used to open them?

[sizemore]

For those of you who have used them, how are they at uncoupling? Most N scale couplers are a pain to uncouple. Ideally these separate as easily as they couple, but only when asked. What tools and techniques are used to open them?

You have to say please first.



The S.

[garethashenden]

You have to say please first.

The S.

I suppose I have to tell them that their a good boxcar too right? I should have known.

[Jesse6669]

..I have to tell them that their a good boxcar too right?..

You have to say "you're a very useful boxcar." 

[GaryHinshaw]

I can offer a few comments:

* These are pretty easy to uncouple with a skewer.  I have been using mini kabob skewer from the market that I slightly flattened at one end with an x-acto blade.

* These will mate nicely with the TSC couplers.  In fact the N-P to TSC coupling is smoother than TSC to TSC.  I don't have any TSC equipped stock, but I did assemble a box to test this.  (Photo below.)

* I was curious about truck-mounted options since I still have a lot of legacy stock that I'd like to convert quickly (while body-mounting proceeds in parallel).  It turns out that the N-P is a snug fit in the standard MTL truck-mount box and centring is a bit compromised.  So I drew up and printed a lid with the same exterior dimensions but a skosh more interior space (and a printed centring splitter) and it works beautifully.  I will lobby Andrew to make that available as an accessory for quick/easy conversions.

-gfh

An N-P in an MTL truck-mount with a custom lid, mated to the height gauge:



A TSC to N-P comparison.  They mate fine:

[Maletrain]

I am thinking that we are going to need transition cars with the new N-possibles on one end and our current couplers on the other end.  I suspect there may even be a few who end up with the old "rapidos" on the other end.

For uncoupling both N scale and HO scale cars, I have been using a skewer with a tiny dental brush (Proxima) on the blunt end of the skewer, so that I can use either end to uncouple knuckle couplers.  Usually, the tiny brush works like magic.  But not always, and a sharp, slightly flattened hard point on the other end is my next-to-last resort.  Last resort is the 5-finger-lift of one end of one car - always needed for uncoupling a pair of dummy knuckles, anyway.

So, Gary, do you have one of those tiny brush uncoupler picks to try on the test N-possibles?

[Iain]

I'd very much like to purchase four to give a try on a couple of cars.

[GaryHinshaw]

I am thinking that we are going to need transition cars with the new N-possibles on one end and our current couplers on the other end.  I suspect there may even be a few who end up with the old "rapidos" on the other end.

Right.  Having a few MTL trucks with N-Ps mounted makes any trunk-mounted car a quick conversion car.

So, Gary, do you have one of those tiny brush uncoupler picks to try on the test N-possibles?

I do, and they don't.    I find they have too much friction and they tend to get stuck in the couplers.  (That's also my experience with other N scale couplers too, so maybe the brand I have - GUM - is a bit softer?)

However, they do make excellent brushes for applying super-thin CA without making a mess!

[turbowhiz]

A few quick points of commentary on some of the recent posts in this thread:

At launch, couplers will be sold in 2 pair packages. This aligns to how others in the industry have long packaged couplers, and honestly needs to exist in the market so it’s as good a starting point as any. I figure at first people are going to need to experiment for themselves before making a determination if N-Possible couplers are for them or not.

Keep in mind there are in fact 6 different coupler parts right at launch. 3 different shank length couplers, supplied with either the universal shim to work in existing boxes, or supplied with a box that is narrow profile but fits in a 1015 top outline with a supplied hat. The universal shim versions are for models which have factory integrated boxes, or for times you want to use a true 1015 box (i.e. locomotives), as the adapter shim works fine in separate boxes too. For an experimental use case, you should probably consider picking up an example of all 3 shank lengths, and at least an example of a universal shim and scalebox version. The couplers themselves are identical, so you can mix/match there.

These 6 parts doubles to 12 when offered in assembled/semi assembled forms. I figure if you’re capable of swapping couplers mounting springs won’t present a challenge, and that my retained spring design is WAY easier to work with then traditional slinky couplers with a loose spring. That said, for some it could still be an appealing option. Maybe @GaryHinshaw can chime in with his working experience these in terms of assembly and installation.

These will be sold via a dealer network. In due course I will also have larger quantity packaging rather than just 2 pair packages. If someone is looking for truly large quantities of couplers (in kit form only) for an all in conversion of a large collection, I will entertain such requests in a case-by-case fashion, supplied directly in bulk packaging.

With respect to uncoupling, my preferred tool is this sewing pin/bamboo skewer hybrid. The sewing pin is slightly un-sharpened to make it less “pokey”, its head cut off and poked into a bamboo skewer handle. You often don’t need to directly pick the couplers apart… Often just a drag of the knuckle shank outward does the trick.



Unlike traditional designs, almost no car movement is needed to break the joint. This is great, but they also act a little differently and when uncoupling under any buff you need to be aware that they effectively immediately re-couple unless you also consider pushing the cars apart in your uncoupling movement.

In my pubic show demonstrations, I’d say those from the public who have tried uncoupling these haven’t had any difficulty. (using the tool shown above..)

Compatibility wise, TSC’s are 100% compatible. A TSC<>N-Possible joint with couple better then a TSC<>TSC joint in terms of coupling force, and will be just as reliable as a TSC<>TSC joint. An N-Possible<>N-Possible joint is significantly more reliable then a TSC<>TSC joint with respect to slip apart circumstances (uneven track), and considerably easier to pick apart. Compatibility with any other overscale design isn’t to be expected, and if it works at all its probably dubiously reliable. A conversion car or few will help manage a hybrid fleet better.

Andrew

[jagged ben]

Ok so when can we order?   

[GaryHinshaw]

Maybe @GaryHinshaw can chime in with his working experience these in terms of assembly and installation.

I am planning to document my installs when these are closer to launch.  In the meantime, I can say that assembling the shank/spring combination is relatively straightforward (with magnification - these parts are small!).   The captive spring really helps in that regard.  My most valuable tool for working with these has been a quality pair of fine curved-tip tweezers, something along these lines: