Atlas C55 #7 switches

[jdcolombo]

So far my building of the turnouts has gone really well.  I can see the benefit of adding an extra PCB tie at the H position even when using solid turnouts, because it helps to keep the geometry of the outer rails.

Glad it is going well.  I find that making them is sort of fun after you get the process down pat.
Agree about the extra tie.

John C.

[mike_lawyer]

Just a side note - I received my "frog helper" jigs for making frogs.  It makes it a lot easier to make very precise frogs than trying to use the regular switch jig.  The problem is that for the larger switch sizes, there is very little room in the switch jig, and sometimes I would end up with frogs where the two rail pieces were not perfectly flat with each other.  The frog helper jig produces perfect frogs every time.

While not necessary, I would recommend purchasing one of the frog helper jigs if you plan on making a lot of switches.

[spr1955]

Another alternative to perfect frogs is Proto:87 stores n-scale etched frogs. You stack the etched metal layers with solder paste in between and hit it with a hot iron. Finished frog no need to saw gaps later. Really nice stuff.

[robert3985]

Another alternative to perfect frogs is Proto:87 stores n-scale etched frogs. You stack the etched metal layers with solder paste in between and hit it with a hot iron. Finished frog no need to saw gaps later. Really nice stuff.

I've assembled and used the P87 Stores etched C55 frogs, thinking they might be better looking and easier to make than scratch-building frogs like I've done for decades.

I was highly disappointed with the frogs from an assembly standpoint.  They were NOT simple to solder at all, being three layers of etched nickel silver, and were quite difficult to get to register, even after building a simple jig to hold them in alignment while applying heat.

First, I tried a big old iron...that failed...then a heat gun, that failed...and finally my clamp and probe on my 250W resistance soldering station...which gave me an "acceptable" result.

In the time it took me to get one etched frog finished so it was functional, I could have made half a dozen frogs from scratch.

I also found that soldering them to the PCB ties caused their solder to melt, and they had to be re-soldered again.

I take close-up photos of my work sometimes, and the close-ups of the etched frog show that it looks weird, and the railhead widths are for C40...too narrow for C55, even though their height is fine.

Also, you MUST be running true low-pro flanges on your wheelsets, or they will bottom out on the etched frog flangeways.

Photo (1) - Proto87Stores etched frog assembled.  Note the weird "railweb"...which doesn't look at all prototypical and the shallow flangeways between the point of the frog and the wing rails:


For comparison's sake, I much prefer my scratch-built, bent up and filed frogs both from an appearance standpoint and an ease of construction standpoint. Plus, scratchbuilt ones are exponentially less costly.

Photo (2) - My scratch-built, bent and filed rail frog during the same turnout building job:


I like the cut electrical gaps much better than what I get with the P87 etched frog too.

I don't do anything exceptionally different from the Fast Tracks method of building frogs, other than make mine scale length (NOT NMRA compliant) and I don't bend the tips of the wing rails outward...I just file a taper (although some prototype frogs definitely DO have bent wing rail tips).

I also put a filet of silver bearing solder between the two rails comprising the point of the frog, then file that filet even with the rail heads after everything is assembled with a medium sized, sharp and clean bastard file.

Maybe you'll really like the Proto87 etched N-scale frogs, but...I only used one out of the six I ordered.

HOWEVER, I really like Proto87Stores etched closure rail heel hinges, and their tri-planed closure points, and, I use their downloadable turnout templates when constructing my turnouts on my bench to make sure I get my tie spacing and lengths correct.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[mike_lawyer]

I finally finished my first batch of turnouts.  They really are smooth!  One issue that I found is that when gluing the turnout to to the Quick Stick ties, the switch points became much harder to swivel back and forth.  It is possible I guess that some of the Pliobond might have gotten into the area of the switch points.  Is there any trick to "loosen" the switch points other than just moving them back and forth a lot to loosen them up?

Also, I am going to be using Tortoise switch machines for the turnouts.  I have a 3 inch extruded foam insulation base, so the throw wire is going to have to extend over three inches.  I know Fast Tracks sells heavier piano wire, but will I need a heavier wire than what Fast Tracks sells given the 3 inch insulation base?  I can tell there will need to be a decent amount of force to throw these switches (a lot more than hinged switches).

[Sumner]

Congrats on the turnouts.  You do have to be careful with the Pliobond.  I'm going to start using CA after that was suggested here and see how I like it.

On the wire I found a really inexpensive source for the .037 ....

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/31981319?mscNew=true&rItem=31981319

The quantity says 1 but that is 'one' package of 100 that are 1 foot long.  You have freight that is more than the $9 but overall still really inexpensive for 100 feet.  I also use...



.. the wire now to hang the weights on my Gravity Switch machines (  http://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/Trackwork/Trackwork-Index.html )

I think with 3 inches you are probably going to need the .037 wire. 

Sumner

[ncbqguy]

Back in the day I built two Athabasca (sp??) etched crossings and was very pleased with the results.   I don’t recall any issues with registration of the two…IIRC…layers and the appearance and performance were  seamless to ME Code 55.   No pictures, long gone BraNchTRAK modules..
Charlie Vlk

[mmagliaro]

I finally finished my first batch of turnouts.  They really are smooth!  One issue that I found is that when gluing the turnout to to the Quick Stick ties, the switch points became much harder to swivel back and forth.  It is possible I guess that some of the Pliobond might have gotten into the area of the switch points.  Is there any trick to "loosen" the switch points other than just moving them back and forth a lot to loosen them up?

Also, I am going to be using Tortoise switch machines for the turnouts.  I have a 3 inch extruded foam insulation base, so the throw wire is going to have to extend over three inches.  I know Fast Tracks sells heavier piano wire, but will I need a heavier wire than what Fast Tracks sells given the 3 inch insulation base?  I can tell there will need to be a decent amount of force to throw these switches (a lot more than hinged switches).

Yes, you probably got some Pliobond on the ties under the area where the switch points are sliding.  You can try acetone and a small brush to dissolve and brush out the Pliobond, or you can slip a small strip of sandpaper about 1/8" wide under the points, rough side down toward the ties, then pulling it back and forth, so you can sand off the sticky surface, and then repeat with the sandpaper facing the other way to take off any pliobond residue that is stuck to the underside of the point rails.

[SD452XR]

I finally finished my first batch of turnouts.  They really are smooth!  One issue that I found is that when gluing the turnout to to the Quick Stick ties, the switch points became much harder to swivel back and forth.  It is possible I guess that some of the Pliobond might have gotten into the area of the switch points.  Is there any trick to "loosen" the switch points other than just moving them back and forth a lot to loosen them up?

Also, I am going to be using Tortoise switch machines for the turnouts.  I have a 3 inch extruded foam insulation base, so the throw wire is going to have to extend over three inches.  I know Fast Tracks sells heavier piano wire, but will I need a heavier wire than what Fast Tracks sells given the 3 inch insulation base?  I can tell there will need to be a decent amount of force to throw these switches (a lot more than hinged switches).

I mark the bottom of the rails with a marker where I don't want any pilobond. This way I don't accidently glue the movable parts of the rail.

[Bill H]

I've assembled and used the P87 Stores etched C55 frogs, thinking they might be better looking and easier to make than scratch-building frogs like I've done for decades.

I was highly disappointed with the frogs from an assembly standpoint.  They were NOT simple to solder at all, being three layers of etched nickel silver, and were quite difficult to get to register, even after building a simple jig to hold them in alignment while applying heat.

First, I tried a big old iron...that failed...then a heat gun, that failed...and finally my clamp and probe on my 250W resistance soldering station...which gave me an "acceptable" result.

In the time it took me to get one etched frog finished so it was functional, I could have made half a dozen frogs from scratch.

I also found that soldering them to the PCB ties caused their solder to melt, and they had to be re-soldered again.

I take close-up photos of my work sometimes, and the close-ups of the etched frog show that it looks weird, and the railhead widths are for C40...too narrow for C55, even though their height is fine.

Also, you MUST be running true low-pro flanges on your wheelsets, or they will bottom out on the etched frog flangeways.

Photo (1) - Proto87Stores etched frog assembled.  Note the weird "railweb"...which doesn't look at all prototypical and the shallow flangeways between the point of the frog and the wing rails:


For comparison's sake, I much prefer my scratch-built, bent up and filed frogs both from an appearance standpoint and an ease of construction standpoint. Plus, scratchbuilt ones are exponentially less costly.

Photo (2) - My scratch-built, bent and filed rail frog during the same turnout building job:

Completely agree with Bob on the Proto87 frogs, for exactly the same reasons. Proto87 produces some fine products, but their frogs don't work for me.
Kind regards,
Bill

[Pamela Clapp]

I am very interested in featuring an article on Turnouts in N-Scale Magazine from Ed Nadolski...Ed, if you see this, please  contact us at N-Scale Magazine. Your work is impressive and there are thousands of people interested in this topic. I hope to hear from you.
Pamela Clapp - Publisher of N-Scale Magazine - info@nscalemagazine.com

[djconway]

I am almost completed with the bench work for my new PRR Middle Division Layout.  I am going to use Atlas Code 55 flex and was planning on using Atlas Code 55 #7 turnouts throughout.  The problem is that I can't find anyone with them in stock.  Does anyone know of a supplier that has any of them or any idea when Atlas is going to have more supply available?

If I can't find any Atlas #7s, I might have to go the Fast tracks handlaid route.

In my travels today I stopped in at Mainline Hobby Shop in Blue Ridge Summit PA While he doesn't have a lot in stock he does have some.
 

[mu26aeh]

In my travels today I stopped in at Mainline Hobby Shop in Blue Ridge Summit PA While he doesn't have a lot in stock he does have some.

I'm a part timer there, posted that in one of the first few replies.  Someone else bought up all the lefts we had in stock, still have rights.  ( Or vise versa, can't remember which )

Thanks for stopping by though, did you find any goodies ?

[mike_lawyer]

Just as a follow up to my Fast Tracks experience, one of the areas that I have found difficult is getting the frog rail in the right place, but at the same time level with the surrounding rails.  There is not much clearance between the base of the wing rails and the base of the frog rails.  What I have found is that I have to carefully file the top of the frog after it is in place to get the frog completely level with the surrounding rails so equipment runs very smoothly.

[robert3985]

Just as a follow up to my Fast Tracks experience, one of the areas that I have found difficult is getting the frog rail in the right place, but at the same time level with the surrounding rails.  There is not much clearance between the base of the wing rails and the base of the frog rails.  What I have found is that I have to carefully file the top of the frog after it is in place to get the frog completely level with the surrounding rails so equipment runs very smoothly.

I even things up by taking a medium sized, sharp bastard file and hitting all the railheads almost simultaneously with a few swipes in the direction of travel.  Takes about a minute and evens up my solder filet at the frog point.  Truthfully, I don't have much of a problem with railheads being the same height since I make sure I press down on the rails when I'm soldering them.  I used to use metal three-point track gauges (might be difficult using the Fast Tracks jig) but I also used stainless tweezers too...pressing down on the railheads while applying heat...watching the flux evaporate and the solder go liquid, then removing the iron, but still pressing with the tweezers until the solder freezes.  That method worked pretty well and I never had a railhead unevenness problem.

Now, I use the tweezer tool on my 250W American Beauty Resistance Soldering Station...hold the rail with the tweezer, press down, step on the pedal...zap...get off the pedal...wait a few seconds...release the tweezer and then go to the next joint.

Making sure you're pressing the rail down on the PCB ties while soldering and holding it in place after you remove your iron should solve your railhead unevenness problem.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore