Looking to get started

[Dave V]

OK 3D printing gurus...

If I wanted to dip my toe into 3D printing, what's the right printer for me?

I expect I would get started (as I learn 3D design) by printing relatively simple details like barrels, drums, crates, and so forth. Eventually I might like to print components for small structures (windows, doors, trim bits, and maybe even walls for especially small structures) in HO scale. Maybe also an HOn3 freight car or two (limited to about 30 HO scale feet in length).

I'm interested in high quality, but it doesn't have to be injection-molded quality. However, I've often fantasized about starting my own line of narrow gauge detail parts.

I remember a few years back Anycubic Photon was all the talk here on TRW. Amazon has more varieties of that printer than I expected.

I'd like to keep it under $500.

What do you all recommend?

[dem34]

While starting out going all in on detail sounds great, if somebody is absolutely starting out on 3D printing I would suggest starting on a Filament printer like a Prusa Mini or a permutation of an Ender 3. Both are very reliable out of the box and filament printing is very easy to troubleshoot and get into. Resin can be very overwhelming to just jump into.

[Chris333]

I've never had a filament printer and really don't know that it would be useful in N and HO scale.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I've never had a filament printer and really don't know that it would be useful in N and HO scale.

So I got a filament printer specifically to make a part to use my resin one.

So far I haven't actually made that part, but the filament printer has been a lot of fun.

And a STEAL at $100.

https://www.microcenter.com/site/content/specialoffer3dprinter.aspx

And while it cannot achieve the detail you'd want for stuff like really GOOD detail parts, I can attest that it is an EASY way to get started.

[Chris333]

Just sayin' it will be a printer he can't use for the parts he wants to make. I mean can you make HO windows with fine detail?

I don't have one so don't know how much easier it may or may not be.

[Chris333]

Oh and to get started I'd first learn how to draw the stuff 

[John]

So, if one of our members here has both types of printers - maybe they could print up a sample of a detail part or two .. and post the pictures for comparison ..

[Chris333]

Don't really know what to recommend since there are so many brands printers now.

This Photon Mono 4K is only $239 https://www.anycubic.com/collections/sales/products/photon-mono-4k

This will be out in a few days  https://www.anycubic.com/products/photon-m3

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Don't really know what to recommend since there are so many brands printers now.

This Photon Mono 4K is only $239 https://www.anycubic.com/collections/sales/products/photon-mono-4k

This will be out in a few days  https://www.anycubic.com/products/photon-m3

I think it's kinda like a DCC system: they're all about the same so get the one your friends have and can help you with.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Oh and to get started I'd first learn how to draw the stuff 

I disagree. I think that that approach raises the barrier to entry.

Sure, I can design some stuff. I'm sure many of you have seen my 611 print... but in reality, there is so much already out there to start from, that I think it's beneficial to get a "starter printer" and just dive in. Download some stuff, slice it up with different parameters, and see what comes out.

Then take an existing file and mess with it a bit. Remix, etc...

Then you can step up to building something from scratch.

Even the most talented scratch builder probably started by assembling a kit. I feel like this is no different.

[Maletrain]

One of the things that strikes me about 3D printing threads on TRW is the number of things posters are finding they have to improve on the machines to get the prints to come out with the precision they want for N scale.  Particularly things like truing the Z axis to vertical, getting play out of the Z axis, etc.

So, I would like to see some recommendations that speak to how satisfactory the machines are as-delivered, or any "improvements" needed to get good results.  I note that Ed needed to buy a filament printer to make a part he wanted/needed for his new SLA printer.  That adds cost, time and learning curve right there.  So, a machine that doesn't require fixing/upgrading is an important consideration.

[John]

One of the things that strikes me about 3D printing threads on TRW is the number of things posters are finding they have to improve on the machines to get the prints to come out with the precision they want for N scale.  Particularly things like truing the Z axis to vertical, getting play out of the Z axis, etc.

So, I would like to see some recommendations that speak to how satisfactory the machines are as-delivered, or any "improvements" needed to get good results.  I note that Ed needed to buy a filament printer to make a part he wanted/needed for his new SLA printer.  That adds cost, time and learning curve right there.  So, a machine that doesn't require fixing/upgrading is an important consideration.

I think you are over emphasizing the first part of your argument .. most of the Z axis problems were with some low end early models . thats been pretty well solved in the last few years- especially with the newer anycubic, elegoo and others ..

I note that Ed needed to buy a filament printer to make a part he wanted/needed for his new SLA printer. 

Thats not completely true - the part that Ed wanted to print could have been printed in SLA as well .. the PLA is just the right tool for that type of thing .. he was making a hose adapter to conect to the vent fan so that he can hook a dryer hose onto the Photon and vent it outside .. it's not actually needed if the smell doesn't bother you .. there are some other alternatives that could have been used -- so he doesn't really "need" the PLA .. this could have been done with a visit to the plumbing department at Lowes or HD

That adds cost, time and learning curve right there.  So, a machine that doesn't require fixing/upgrading is an important consideration.

While I agree with you - it's a red herring argument .. all machines eventually break .. and most have a learning curve .. hell, my inkjet printer gives me more fits that either of the two SLA printers .. but in fairness - they also have their share of challenges ..   maybe in a few years ..

In the meantime - share some of your builds ..

[narrowminded]

I've had three units now and never had to do anything to any of them beyond using them and replacing the vat film a few times.  And the only reason I've had three is the technology improvements that increased speed, some but not all that much, then minor print quality improvements, and finally print size.  I would still be doing fine with my original Photon, just takes a little longer.  And that does mean a little, still fast enough for my hobby needs.  Some others have used theirs more than I but I still used mine a fair amount.  And the Mono does a slightly better job in a few ways but with the old Photon nothing stopped me from getting what I wanted from the process.

The units I've had are the original Photon, the Mono (it's faster), and then the Mono X which has bigger capacity (and also faster than the original Photon).  I got the Mono X for bigger parts but especially for turnouts (if I ever finish all that the project requires) .

[cgw]

3d printing is a pandoras box of learning, rebuilding,  etc..... on my early photons had to rebuild the rails etc to get performance that the machine should have had when it came out. (Jackson products rails).     The FDM printers are a hobby to make more parts and rebuild the printers.......      The inexpensive ones are all the ones that need this tender loving care.  The software is very poor and not that great.     After waisting a lot of time I sold most of them off  and purchased a couple of new Prusa FDM printers and a SL1S printer.  The software is significantly better than the anycubic,  shitu box etc software.      But it is significantly more in initial investment than the low cost printers.       Now I have a bunch of printer that actually can print without a lot of rework or failed prints.  Now its becoming an enjoyable hobby again making stuff.     Chris hit it on the head is first learn how to draw some simple things to learn how to print and make.    Printing other peoples work is neat for about a week and then it will get boring really quick, eventually  you will have a dust collector if you don't learn how to design something.    I have been given a couple enders and wanhau printers by friends who gave up using them.  Can the inexpensive printers work.  Yes with patience and time invested.   Do I need high end 3d software to do the design work?    Ehh no there are several shareware programs that will  give the same results at Solid Works, Rhino and NX.   The neat thing is the technology is evolving and changing for the better.                     

[Chris333]

The OG Photon had a color screen and weak UV light. The newer Photons have a mono (black and white) screen that lasts longer before burning out. New Photons also have stronger UV lights so need less exposure time and that makes the whole print quicker.

So now I'd bet they all (brands) have mono screens and better UV lights.