PRR L1s #559 build

[Lemosteam]

About nine years ago, I started a kitbash to convert a Trix decapod into a 2-8-2 PRR L1s Mikado as documented on the old Atlas forum. To me, the GHQ version never looked right next to the Minitrix K4 (pre Bachmann) and being that prototypically, the two locos shared the basic boiler construction and size, I wanted to use the Trix. I’m not going to dump all of the construction photos here on TRA, so here is the link to my google album of the loco.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MfsxnEnP81aXXTzS8

Some of the mods include repowering the loco with a 5 pole Lifelike motor, installing Kato mike drivers onto filed down Minitrix axles, removal of the rear driver axle in favor of a Trix delta trailing truck. There are many Keystone Details um, details, on the loco, and many leftover GHQ details as well. Stand alone wire for plumbing, led’s, the usual. I also got lucky in that I was able to find an etched Alkem Scale Models 559 number plate and matching decals in the remains of my GHQ L1s decals.

Here are her final pictures:

[glakedylan]

Hey John . . . wonderful work here!
very skilled and creative. i will be following along from the website
to finish the two i am working on for over 3 years now.

thanks
Gary

[Angus Shops]

Great work! But I think the front two drivers are off the rail…

[Lemosteam]

Great work! But I think the front two drivers are off the rail…

The whole project is off the rails!

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Yeah, I always thought the GHQ boiler looked a bit chonky to me, but I never really compared it to official sources.

This looks great John, although I'm not in love with the tender decals. They just look "off" to me, but again, that's just comparing them to my mind's eye, not any real reference.

[Lemosteam]

Yeah, I always thought the GHQ boiler looked a bit chonky to me, but I never really compared it to official sources.

This looks great John, although I'm not in love with the tender decals. They just look "off" to me, but again, that's just comparing them to my mind's eye, not any real reference.

The big thing about the GHQ boiler for me was the comparo to the Trix K4 and even the Bachmann, way larger.

Yeah, decals may be just a little low and maybe too tall.  Might be easy to strip. Maybe Ill fix.

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/prr559sa.jpg

[Ed Kapuscinski]

The big thing about the GHQ boiler for me was the comparo to the Trix K4 and even the Bachmann, way larger.

I wonder how it'd look on top of a 2-10-0 mech to represent the PRR's legendary MEGACHONKER.

Yeah, decals may be just a little low but def the right size.

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/prr559sa.jpg

Huh. Yeah. Weird. Guess I need to recalibrate my mind's eye!

[Lemosteam]

I wonder how it'd look on top of a 2-10-0 mech to represent the PRR's legendary MEGACHONKER.

Huh. Yeah. Weird. Guess I need to recalibrate my mind's eye!

Whatcha thinking senility does not become you:

http://www.maxcowonline.com/maxspage/projectFiles.php?projectStringData=picdir%3DI1articlephotos%26picidx%3D0%26lastpic%3D20%26picstyle%3D0%26

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Whatcha thinking senility does not become you:

Look bruhv, I've killed a lot of brain cells since that visit! lol

[peteski]

Yes, overall the model is very well done, but since there was a discussion started on some shortcomings, what bugs me are the very clunky valve gear linkages.  Even weathered, they look a bit toyish.   Not only they are very wide (as wide as the connecting rods), their round ends are way too large with large rivets connecting them.  I know that this is not John's fault, but I find them distracting from the otherwise excellent model.

I could see someone like Max maybe filing them down to be thinner, but that is a major pain, and a lot of delicate work.

[mike_lawyer]

If you decide to redo the decals, I like using the Micro-Scale PRR early diesel decals.  They are smaller, yellow instead of gold leaf, and the spacing and proportion look better than the decals that come with the GHQ kit.

I will dig up some photos of my two GHQ L-1s this evening and post them to show how the decals look on the tender.

[mmagliaro]

Oddly enough, I had the opposite reaction to the valve gear that Peteski did.
When I first looked at this model, which is a really nice job by the way, John, I thought, "Oh yeah, those are the old
Trix rods".  And then it occurred to me that they don't bother me nearly as much as they do when they are on the original Trix model for some reason.  Maybe because they are darkened?   I don't know.  And I would think they would stand out MORE and make me want to file them down, but on this model, somehow, they don't bother me.
Anyway, REALLY nice work, John.  This project was very creative and well executed.  And yes, the GHQ boiler shell is "fat" for a K4 or L1.  That Trix boiler was always nice (as is the K4 tender shell they made for it).

[peteski]

I am surprised that the valve gear does not look out of place to you Max.  The model has many close to scale details (like the handrails on the boiler), so to me the valve gear just looks out of place.

[Lemosteam]

I am surprised that the valve gear does not look out of place to you Max.  The model has many close to scale details (like the handrails on the boiler), so to me the valve gear just looks out of place.

To be honest they bother me too. But unfortunately, the Minitrix shell won’t fit on a Kato mike, which would actually bother me more due to the fact that it is not a Laid style slide. Same with the Bachmann Connie,

Regardless, there really are no other options for a chassis. The wheels and axles were difficult enough 9 years ago and even now, creating a whole valve gear from scratch was not my idea of fun.

Thanks for the compliment Max and everyone else.

[mmagliaro]

The fact that they are actually fluted rods really helps.  So many steam locos use simple, flat, samped rods and those just scream "toy".  I'd take a rod that's a little big with fluting detail any day.  What one COULD do, without too much fuss, which I think would improve the Trix rods, would be to just file the top and bottom sides, so that they are thinner, and do the same for the ends where the crank pins go through.  That's really not nearly as hard as scratch building the whole rod.  Then find some crank pins with smaller heads ( if the hole in the rod isn't too big to let the smaller head drop through! ).