Sonic Mini 8k

[Chris333]

I installed a magnetic build plate which makes it much easier and more neat to remove the prints. No dripping outside of the vat perimeter, no struggling to remove the prints from the build plate. A slight flex of the spring steel breaks the vacuum suction and the prints simply slide off.

But I pop my items off the build plate without wearing gloves using a scraper. I never clean the build plate, just put it back on the machine. (Also have never sanded the build plate on any printer) I grab it from the clean part. Set it on the foam plate and pop off the part onto the plate. Put the build head back on the machine. Take the plate to the alcohol and then put one glove on to hold the part while I scrub with an ungloved hand. You still need to let all the resin drip off or you will just waste resin and my the alcohol cloud up quicker.

[timwatson]

I installed a magnetic build plate which makes it much easier and more neat to remove the prints. No dripping outside of the vat perimeter, no struggling to remove the prints from the build plate. A slight flex of the spring steel breaks the vacuum suction and the prints simply slide off.

I have the whambam plates on my SM4k, I love them. They do start to arch if you place too much weight on them however. It's an unfortunate side effect. When people were printing the replacement parts from my kit, the parts would be bowed where the plate began to come loose under the weight of the part.

[JeffB]

Well the Brookville would be small and save resin    But just anything that is the same model to compare 35 vs. 22 microns.

That would be something I'd like to see as well...  A comparison of a print of the same model (in the exact same orientation) done on each machine.  That would give a good comparison to see if upgrading to an 8K machine is worth it. 

Not having printed anything on my M4k yet, it's definitely silly to consider spending upwards of $500 on an 8k machine, but I tend to do (stupid) things that defy logic like that, so why stop? 

I just have to figure out what big dollar item in my "stash" I want to sell to finance the 8k machine...

Jeff

[timwatson]

... I've got a print of the Brookville from both machines just need to clean them. Maybe over lunch.

I just have to figure out what big dollar item on in my "stash" I want to sell to finance the 8k machine...

Jeff

My wife just told me to do something similar when I bought the Toma Porter - the struggle is real.

[JeffB]

... I've got a print of the Brookville from both machines just need to clean them. Maybe over lunch.

My wife just told me to do something similar when I bought the Toma Porter - the struggle is real.

Excellent...  Can't wait for the photos! 

Yup...  Juggling/negotiating big ticket hobby items has been and will continue to be an ongoing bit of contention with the family CFO.  "Saving for retirement...  Blah, blah, blah...".

Jeff

[motofavorite]

That brick looks terrific!

[timwatson]

That brick looks terrific!

Thanks.

[timwatson]

Progress as promised!

If you’re looking to choose between a 4k and 8k machine I’m not sure this will be a compelling enough excuse to decide on anything but dollar difference but there i as difference.  The 8k prints feel sharper up close and in,person. The layer lines on roofs are especially more noticeable on the 4k machine. I printed Chris super tiny Brookfield switcher. This thing is so small. Kudo’s @Chris333 for powering that thing. It’s as big as my thumbprint.

Here are the pics. First the supported model. Grey resin is the 4k machine and black is the 8k machine.
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Side views of the loco.
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Front end shot (in person the black one is much better)
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The roofs you can see a bigger difference as well.
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And a bonus 25’ Hon30 boxcar shot
Like I said the 8k is just so much sharper.
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This doesn’t really answer any questions other than what you’d expect. The 8k prints better. I will say that the robustness of the 8k machine is probably my biggest surprise at this point. I like it a lot. It’s what the SM4k should have been.

[Chris333]

Thanks!  The roof stepping would basically be the 0.05mm layer heights and should be the same for both machines. Maybe something ultra tiny like a bolt head is better?

At least the machine looks stronger 

[C855B]

Frankly, to me the difference is stunning. The louvers on the 8K version are really crisp, as is the link coupler pocket. Name plate on the sideframe is significantly sharper.

I've been trundling along with my original Photon "ever since", procrastinating upgrading mostly due to life issues. However, there are projects in the queue that have been set aside where the Photon output was OK-ish, but not ideal. I'll put the Mini 8K on my "hmmm..." list.

[Lemosteam]

Seriously, the roof stepping will be greatly reduced if you change you slice height. to 0.03 or 0.02.  You really do not have to print in perfect cubic voxels.  The Z axis screw is capable of more accuracy than the screen.

The only difference will be in a longer print time and and improved z axis surface curvature result.

Try the print again on the 8K with 0.02 slice height and you will be amazed.

Its too bad they don't update the slicer apps to allow control of slice height, and exposure at each slice, yes it would be time consuming to do but if you really wanted the best of both time printing and quality of print, this would be the answer.

After all, the output if the slicer app is a unique slice file every time anyway.

[bbussey]

But you can't remove the stepping entirely no matter what your slice height is.  Most of the time it can be sanded out easily.  I'd rather have shorter print times if I can sand out the stepping with little effort.

[timwatson]

Thanks!  The roof stepping would basically be the 0.05mm layer heights and should be the same for both machines. Maybe something ultra tiny like a bolt head is better?

At least the machine looks stronger 

The layer height is equal to each machines optical resolution - mol.
So .03 for the 4k and .02 for the 8k. To avoid half stepping from the motor you have  to round up or down to the nearest .01.

So John to your point those heights are what I printed at. A more fair test might have been .05 for both machines but you but 8k for the .02 resolution.

[timwatson]

Also keep in mind this is literally my fourth print on this machine, The first 2 were the Xp resin calibration I showed and the brick/gears. There will be some more “dialing in” to be done. Stay tuned.

My dad has been sick so I had to cut the test short. In the hospital with him now.

[Lemosteam]

The layer height is equal to each machines optical resolution - mol.
So .03 for the 4k and .02 for the 8k. To avoid half stepping from the motor you have  to round up or down to the nearest .01.

So John to your point those heights are what I printed at. A more fair test might have been .05 for both machines but you but 8k for the .02 resolution.

This is simply not true, read the specs on the Phrozen site for your 8k machine. X-Y is 0.022 and Z axis is capable of 0.01-0.03mm vertical steps.