Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k

[Chris333]

My Sonic Mini 4K showed up today    Gonna let it thaw out a little.  39 days from when I ordered. Said 4-6 weeks, took 5.5 weeks.

All I did was un-pack everything, but the one thing I didn't think of... those thumb screws to hold the vat down are definitely making a trip into the resin sooner or later.

[SkipGear]

Chris, you might be able to change it up, depending on what the studs are threaded into and make it like the Anycubic. It has thumb studs that thread into the deck. Thought it was going to hard to hit the hole when switching the vat but they work extremely well.

[timwatson]

So do you think the bases are cracking from the plate flexing?


Phrozen put this up on their FB page

I do think it’s the base flexing.

[timwatson]

My Sonic Mini 4K showed up today    Gonna let it thaw out a little.  39 days from when I ordered. Said 4-6 weeks, took 5.5 weeks.

All I did was un-pack everything, but the one thing I didn't think of... those thumb screws to hold the vat down are definitely making a trip into the resin sooner or later.

The end of the studs have no threads. So the nut will just spin on the end until you take it off.

[peteski]

The end of the studs have no threads. So the nut will just spin on the end until you take it off.

Now that's a clever design.

[Chris333]

Well threads or no threads I'm still gonna go    every time 

So looking this printer over. I plugged it in and it has the manual up-down controls in 3 different increments just like the Photon. So maybe I have newer software?

I have no idea what to do about the cover. I want to just spray paint the whole thing, but I might have to build a little box with a front door (like the Photon) to slip over the Sonic Mini. I keep the printers right next to a window and in the morning the sun is beating right on the printers. Keep in mind my Photon has had magnetic covers over all the windows since day one and the front door opens away from the sunny window. I keep the vat full of resin for about 2 years now. Even if I paint the Sonic cover it will still suck to lift the cover off and have the sun beating down on everything.


Also I wish the base had adjustable feet like the Photon, oh well I'll live 


Tim, I saw the braces you added under the base. Do you think if I did the same , but kept the stock rail, I would be OK? And should those braces be attached with the same bolts that hold the rail in place?  I have the print head brace taken care of 

Usually I would have my first print running, but I'm in no hurry some how.

[Chris333]

Here is my rail slide just to compare:


And the base. Mine is 5mm thick.

[JeffB]

Here is my rail slide just to compare:

So you already have it in pieces??!!   

You're not alone...  Mine is still in pieces while I decide what I want to do about it.  I need to get the cover glass that sits below the LCD screen out so I can replace it with something thinner.  I want to recess the LCD into the base so that it's flush with the top.

The plan is to use a thinner glass sheet under the LCD, then a shim of the appropriate thickness, followed by the LCD screen and finally, the tempered glass screen protector for the Nintendo Switch (which has to be trimmed, which will be interesting).

I've figured out how to adapt the Z-column I made, so that should stiffen the column/base connection.  Just have to drill and tap about 20 - M4 holes!

Jeff

[Chris333]

Yep had to see what makes it tick...

Later on I will see just how out of level the screen is, but my screen gasket isn't 4 pieces of tape. It looks like all one piece of cut out vinyl. It is pretty thin, but when I tighten down the vat screws I can see and outline appear on the FEP.

[Chris333]

Just asking to make sure. Does it matter how tight I pinch down the backlash spring under here? I have it a little tighter than it came.

[JeffB]

Just asking to make sure. Does it matter how tight I pinch down the backlash spring under here? I have it a little tighter than it came.

I'd be wary of how tight you make it...  Too much compression will overload the motor and give you problems, but if you run it and the motor doesn't error out (too much current) you'll probably be OK with what you set it at.

Jeff

[peteski]

I'd be wary of how tight you make it...  Too much compression will overload the motor and give you problems, but if you run it and the motor doesn't error out (too much current) you'll probably be OK with what you set it at.

Jeff

Overcurrent?  Aren't those motors stepper motors? 

[Chris333]

Loosened the backlash spring one thread.

Checked out my screen. The trim around it is .004" thick (.1mm) and the whole screen seems to be level, but .016" (.4mm) above the base. The Kapton tape I bought is .002" thick (.05mm).

Think I'll put everything back together and run it dry to see what happens.

I did buy the Nintendo Switch glass protector to try later.

[Chris333]

Put it all back together. For right now I did a perimeter of 9 layers of Kapton tape. My screen is up .016" plus their tape seal trim .004" so .020" total. Nine layers of tape is ~.018" so the FEP only has .002" of play instead of .020". We'll see what happens.

And my version is V4.3.19_LCDPs1/3840/F2.18  I said it does have manual lift controls, but that is not how you zero the build plate. On the Photon you level the build plate and then use the fine manual controls with a piece of paper to zero it till the paper is tight. With this Sonic Mini you level and zero all at one time with the 4 screws and don't use the fine controls at all. Hopefully this really doesn't mater since my Photon has stayed leveled and zeroed, the Sonic Mini should stay as well.

Now I need to make a file for this thing.

[SkipGear]

Put it all back together. For right now I did a perimeter of 9 layers of Kapton tape. My screen is up .016" plus their tape seal trim .004" so .020" total. Nine layers of tape is ~.018" so the FEP only has .002" of play instead of .020". We'll see what happens.

And my version is V4.3.19_LCDPs1/3840/F2.18  I said it does have manual lift controls, but that is not how you zero the build plate. On the Photon you level the build plate and then use the fine manual controls with a piece of paper to zero it till the paper is tight. With this Sonic Mini you level and zero all at one time with the 4 screws and don't use the fine controls at all. Hopefully this really doesn't mater since my Photon has stayed leveled and zeroed, the Sonic Mini should stay as well.

Now I need to make a file for this thing.

The Mono X levels the same way. Have not touched it since I set it up. Rock solid with 4 bolts holding it level.