Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k

[timwatson]

Chris said I could post the pics of his box car print. These are printed at .03mm layers it showed a print time of 4hrs 37 minutes. You'll have to ask @Chris333 if that's a good print time. <shrug> Overall these were over supported on my side. I should have left about half of them off.These were cleaned in Simple Green and then cleaned in Acetone. Which is an amazing cleaner for prints. Just smelly (and exploding fumes but ya know - be careful and stuff).

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I also may have a happy development on the z-axis wobble - and a cure. More to come.

[Chris333]

I'm not worried at all about how long it takes to print, but I think most of my boxcars are around 4 hours. I never even look at that info.

[timwatson]

One more pic to show tiny boxcar straight roof!


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[timwatson]

I also printed some n-scale-ish bricks. They're still too big but it's completely doable to print them. I know someone else had some luck with that on TRW. DPM brick sheet underneath the printed brick.


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[Erock482]

Did that boxcar print flat?

I'm impressed it doesn't seem to show the typical warp I see in my longer cars printed flat

Also, whats the build area dimension? I see some places say 6.1" but the specs seem to indicate 5.1

[SkipGear]

Warp comes from not enough supports. I'm working on printing heavyweight passenger cars flat and the only warp was where the model pulled away from the supports.

@Lemosteam - John, ran across the perfect reason for you to own a printer, even if you don't use it for final product.
Working on a motor cradle for a customer to retrofit an old Bachmann HO American, get rid of the pancake motor that came in it, and maybe make room for sound in the process. Drew it up late last night, ran the print this morning while at work. Came home tonight to test and realize I had botched the length of the driveshaft. Instead of waiting a week for shapeways, I have a second prototype printing right now and will know if it works as expected in the morning. That is what these things were meant for, rapid prototyping. It just happens we are getting a lot more out of them now.

[Chris333]

On my Photon I have been getting some warped boxcars that I print flat. They dip down about .020" in the center and sag like a banana. I just fixed one last night with a bunch of hot water to straighten it. There are so many supports in the corners that it fills in solid. I checked some old boxcars I printed the same way and they are still straight 1.5 years later.

This car that I just happened to have a pic of is still straight. This show the supports:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/aM8ZeJpiqPMdKr669

But if you zoom in on this:
https://hdl.huntington.org/digital/collection/p16003coll2/id/21896/rec/638
maybe a little sag on a wooden cars is OK   

The Phrozen FEP instructions tell you to screw it right down. Whereas the Photon tells you to use a bottle cap when screwing down to give it some play. The Phrozen way might just end up with a tighter FEP. I dunno.

[JMaurer1]

Especially with cars that have truss rods. Rods too tight and the REAL cars would bow up, not tight enough and the car bows down. John Allen was known for building his rolling stock with a 'swayback' because it was more common back then on the prototype than most now realize.

[SkipGear]

Just an example of what I mean by lot's of supports...lol. I do not trust or use any auto support program. I draw them as part of the STL file. I figure it doesn't take any more time to print, it helps stabilize the print and I haven't had any issues with warping except on thin profile pieces which tend to have a bit of an issue with shrink as they cure relative to the raft.

 

[Chris333]

Sometimes all those supports on the inside will give a wave down the outside of the body due to the change in FEP tension at certain layers. Like right in the center of your car where 3 different supports branch off on the same plane.

[SkipGear]

Had a problem with that on some early tests that I printed on an angle, but I was also trying to print it like it was injection molded with .25mm thick walls. Thicker walls and the slower lift cycle on the Mono X seemed to have cured it. The printed body is straight as an arrow except the end corners where my supports pulled loose. Redrew them with more contact area, waiting till I switch to gray resin to print again.

[timwatson]

Did that boxcar print flat?

I'm impressed it doesn't seem to show the typical warp I see in my longer cars printed flat

Also, whats the build area dimension? I see some places say 6.1" but the specs seem to indicate 5.1

I added lots of supports inside - really too many supports. This car needed many less supports than I added. I could of cut it down 50% and got a similar result with cleaner lines.
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The screen diagonal is 6.1". Attached are the dimensions in mm
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[JeffB]

OK I have one more picture that sums up the difference between the Phrozen Sonic mini 4k and my OG Photon.


This is my Hon30 flex track I have been working on. Same exact file, same exact resin combo. BIGGG difference.




(Attachment Link)
Above track is Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k
Below is OG Photon

That's impressive Tim!  What resin are you using on both machines?

The clarity/sharpness of the detail on the 4K print is definitely better, though the grain might be a tad overdone.  It's the lack of clarity/sharpness from the Photon that tones down that detail and makes it a little more realistic.

Jeff

[JeffB]

I added lots of supports inside - really too many supports. This car needed many less supports than I added. I could of cut it down 50% and got a similar result with cleaner lines.
(Attachment Link)

The screen diagonal is 6.1". Attached are the dimensions in mm
(Attachment Link)

I've found it more preferable to have fewer supports inside hollow structures, than more (as you've stated).  When you put them too close together, they tend to print in a homogeneous lump, which increases pull away force on the FEP and causes ripples in the vertical surfaces.

Jeff

[timwatson]

That's impressive Tim!  What resin are you using on both machines?

The clarity/sharpness of the detail on the 4K print is definitely better, though the grain might be a tad overdone.  It's the lack of clarity/sharpness from the Photon that tones down that detail and makes it a little more realistic.

Jeff

I'm using Elegoo grey (standard)/Siraya Blu (original) - mixed together and the Monocure resin dye.
I think once painted the grain will end up being toned down.