ESU Loksound 5 DCC Micro 8 pin - Any one used in a N scale Loco

[bdennis]

Guys,
Am looking at the ModelTrain Stuff web page at the ESU 58820 LokSound 5 DCC Micro 8-Pin blank decoder.
I noted that all this model decoder has a Next18 plug on it. The 58820 comes with a adapter and cable with the adapter that looks like it has solder tabs so I could solder my own wires on and cut the ribbon cable off. - https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/esu-58820-loksound-5-dcc-micro-8-pin-blank-decoder/
or

has anyone tried to use on of these in a N scale loco.
Im looking to see if I can fit one in a Lifelike Alco PA1 or a Baldwin Shark (ER models version).
Would be interested to know what the plug / socket arrangement is like?

[RBrodzinsky]

Just get the 58823 - the daughter board has wires coming from it, no flat cable

[jdcolombo]

What Rick said.

There is no reason to use the 8-pin plug in N scale; it just takes up room you don't have.  Get the wired version.  In any event, you're going to need about 4mm of clearance between the frame and shell to mount the decoder.  You'll probably need to do a bit of frame milling for the LL PA or Shark, since my recollection is that there isn't a lot of "headroom" between the frame and shell (I'm assuming you have the hard-frame version of the PA, not the "huge lead weights" version).

John C.

[bdennis]

Guys,
Thanks for the info. The key is stock availability. ModelTrainstuff does not have the 58823 in stock.
The wired version of this decoder looks the same as it seems to have the adaptor board on it with wires attached. So getting the 58820 and then adding wires would be the same wouldn't it?


In terms of the PA.. I have the lead weight version.
I'm also looking to install this decoder in a U30C also.

[reinhardtjh]

Currently 44 items in stock at Streamline Backshops.
https://store.sbs4dcc.com/ESU58823LokSound5MicroNMRADCCSoundDecoder-Hardwire.aspx

Bryan is good people. I have ordered and sold consignment items through him before.  He's going on vacation on Oct 9th so get an order in by before the 7th.

He does international shipping:  https://store.sbs4dcc.com/shipping-policy.aspx

[bdennis]

John,
Thanks for that..
I guess one of the reasons I'm keen to use ModelTrain Stuff is that I have some reward points that I can use for postage that will save me the $25 to $30 in postage.
In reading the manual the 58823 and the 58820 look to be the same and the tan coloured ribbon cable can be cut off. The small adaptor board has enough solder tabs to enable the install of wires and effectively the same as the 58823.
I would be interested to understand the total height of the decoder with the adaptor board installed in the Next18 socket. The manual says 3.8mm. but its unclear if this includes the adaptor board.

[RBrodzinsky]

Bryan’s shipping is free (well, $1) on orders over $150.

There is no difference in the decoders, since the only difference connector board.  Lots of discussion near this message in the thread about sizes https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=46528.msg626653#msg626653

[bdennis]

Rick,
Thanks for that. Unfortunately.. The free shipping does not apply to me as I am in Australia. So shipping cost is a major contributing factor. The cheapest even for a decoder is $25 to $30USD. That's about $40AUD.
"3. Domestic shipping services are limited to USPS First Class or Priority Mail strictly at shippers discretion.  All international shipping options are excluded from this offer."

Thanks for the link to the size discussion. I will have a read.

[jdcolombo]

Yes, you can cut off the ribbon cable and solder your own wires to the adapter board.  I did it several times before ESU released the "wires only" version.

I did an installation of a LokSound Select in a LL PA-1 with the lead weights.  See the following thread:
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=40264.msg496229#msg496229

The installation of a LokSound 5 micro should be similar, though you may have to cut a bit more from the rear weight.  Here's the video of mine:

John C.

[RBrodzinsky]

Sorry, didn’t realize you were down there.

[bdennis]

John,
Thanks for the links. Will have a look.

Rick,
No problem.. All good. One of the many challenges of modelling an american prototype in Australia.

[Steveruger45]

You can just cut the ribbon and solder on your own wires. ESU also makes the various connectors available separately but It’s finding who has those. They run around usd9 each.
I’ve purchased from MTS and SBS and both are great
Here is another link to a great vendor here in US too.

https://yankeedabbler.com/esu-loksound/

[bdennis]

Progress update.
I also ordered a few speaker enclosures from Shapeways for the speakers and then set to work installing the decoders and speakers into the ER Models RF16 shark and the LifeLike (Plastic frame) PA1.
The frame for the Shark needed some cutting / milling but managed to get the decoder and speaker installed and it sounds great. I will make a video and post it.
As the D&H PA's had both the original 16 Cyl 244 and the later 12 Cyl 251 it was a toss up what sound file to use. I think I have settled on the 251 file and am working through the install of the decoder.
Pictured / video to follow.

[glakedylan]

@bdennis thanks for posting and sharing your work.
i am eager to see the photos.
also, did you switch out the couplers on the Shark(s)?
that is something i need to do before i can enter the ESU realm.
any photos or information will be greatly appreciated!


sincerely
Gary

[bdennis]

Gary,
Here is a short video of the ER Models RF16 Shark.

/>
In terms of the couplers. I removed the front coupler box and installed a medium length Microtrains coupler and screwed it into the under body of the loco.
For the rear, as I always pair my 2 x D&H Sharks together, as thats how they ran, I installed a medium length Unimate coupler on one and a short shank Unimate on the other. This gives me a nice gap between the 2 and allows them to also navigate the 10inch radius in my staging yards on the layout.




I milled a little off the top of the frame for the decoder and milled a few milimeters off the back section. I also sanded down the sound box to enable it to fit.


The unmodified frame has 2 raised sections for the std light board to mount to with screws and this also enables a connection for wires to the frame. As these needed to be removed, I removed the black paint from around the front frame screw and pushed the pick up wires for the decoder in next to the screw and the plastic nut on the other side. This enables a secure connection to the frame to power the decoder.

The decoder I used is a 58820 Loksound 5 Dcc Micro with 8pin connector via a ribbon cable. I cut the ribbon cable off the plug and soldered the relevant wires to the daughter board that plugs into the decoder.
I also very carefully soldered the motor wires to the brass tab on either side of the motor being careful to NOT solder to the top section that floats and has the brush spring behind it.
The front section of the loco is a clip on plastic part so the SMD LED and resistor can just sit there and not come in contact with any metal parts.