N Scale TR2 “Calf” with Loksound v5 Micro (Lifelike chassis)

[tehachapifan]

Taking advantage of the discount, I just ordered some of the SD45 sound version motors to try out.

[craigolio1]

Over the last couple of years I amassed a small collection of those S4 motors (usually waiting for the parts sale, to get them at a discount).  They are out of stock now, but the SD 45 sound value motor is pretty much the same.  And the parts sale might still be active (see my post about it on the Product Discussion thread).

Here is the motor: https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70_699&products_id=10547

Thanks for the link.  That motor will sit in the S4 motor cradle?

Craig

[craigolio1]

Taking advantage of the discount, I just ordered some of the SD45 sound version motors to try out.

Is the current price of $14.70 a sale price? 

Thanks, Craig

[tehachapifan]

No. I used the coupon code on top of that.

[craigolio1]

No. I used the coupon code on top of that.

Did you say... coupon code?!  Is this something that you cab share? Where do I find this coupon code?

Craig

[reinhardtjh]

Did you say... coupon code?!  Is this something that you cab share? Where do I find this coupon code?

Craig

Here:

Head to our parts store to take advantage of our Labor Day Sale! From August 29th through September 7th, use the special discount code to take advantage of 20% off your order of $25 or more.  Click the shopping cart below to take advantage of these savings before the sale ends at 11:59 p.m. EDT on Monday, September 7th. Offer applies to orders placed online only.

Don't forget to enter your offer code: tuneup

 @craigolio1 90 minutes to go until 11:59 EDT.

[peteski]

Thanks for the link.  That motor will sit in the S4 motor cradle?

Craig

Once you remove the plastic mounts for the SD45, the motor should fit into the S4 cradle.  The flywheel and universal couplings are different, but those are not relevant for this installation.

[GM50 4164]

Jim, fantastic work as always sir. I have several of the Life Like SW's and have tried swapping out the plastic worms with brass ones but the method I used just didn't work all that well. I am intrigued with the motor swap as you've been doing to your models and I went to the ebay link you provided. Motor does indeed look similar to the S4 one but like the worms this one doesn't have a flywheel. How do you attach a flywheel to the motor? What model are you taking the flywheel from? I also sent you a message on Facebook if you get a chance to read it.

Thanks for sharing your skiils!

Benjamin

[Jim Starbuck]

Thank you Benjamin,

I also have several of the Lifelike SWs which I’ve tuned up to run very well.
When using the stock Lifelike motor, replacing the plastic worms with brass is a big step in getting them to run better. Many suggest using Kato brass worms and they work well but I’ve found Atlas brass worms to be better. The Katos are slightly larger in diameter than the stock plastic ones and thus run deeper in the worm gear which can cause some noise once in a while. Putting a .010” styrene strip shim between the motor and motor saddle raises the motor and opens up the clearance and quiets things down.
The Atlas worms are slightly smaller in diameter than the stock plastic version and ride higher and quieter on the worm gear. I’m away for work right now so I don’t have the exact measurements. I’ll edit this post when I get home. I think the difference in diameter is about.015”. Doesn’t sound like much but it makes a difference.
With all that said, there’s no guarantee that the brass worms are either of the particular diameter simply by brand. I have gotten either size from either brand. I just measure them when I get them. The slightly small diameter worms do require opening up the hole slightly with a tapered reamer.

The motor I used in the calf conversion did in fact come from Tramfabriek and had bare shafts. I’m pretty sure it’s the same as the Bachmann just without the various flywheel configurations.
The flywheel in the calf is homemade. I turned it out of brass stock on my lathe. I think the center was drilled with a .95 or .98mm drill bit and the larger counterbore was was just a center drill I had in the chuck. Maybe 1/8”?  The counterbore is there to expose enough of the motor shaft to attach an extension tube for the worm. The small through hole made a snug slip fit on the motor shaft and the flywheel was secured with a touch of red Loctiite to the shaft.
Hope that makes some sense.

 Jim

[peteski]

Jim,  At the size those flywheels are, they likely provide negligible coasting effect, correct?

[Jim Starbuck]

Jim,  At the size those flywheels are, they likely provide negligible coasting effect, correct?

Correct.
What I’ve found them to do is to smooth out slow speed operation. My Davenport 45 tonner doesn’t have any flywheels at all and it’s slightly jittery when running extremely slow without a load. Almost looks like backlash and I think the flywheels give it just a bit of mass and buffering to run smoother.
Any coasting effect is done with decoder deceleration programmed in.

[peteski]

Correct.
What I’ve found them to do is to smooth out slow speed operation. My Davenport 45 tonner doesn’t have any flywheels at all and it’s slightly jittery when running extremely slow without a load. Almost looks like backlash and I think the flywheels give it just a bit of mass to run smoother.
Any coasting effect is done with decoder deceleration programmed in.

Does the 44-tonner also have a coreless motor?

[Jim Starbuck]

Does the 44-tonner also have a coreless motor?

Yes, I used the exact same motor on the Davenport 45 tonner build but it is so short there wasn’t room for a flywheel.

[peteski]

Yes, I used the exact same motor on the Davenport 45 tonner build but it is so short there wasn’t room for a flywheel.

The jitter might be due to the way the decoder is dealign with the coreless motor (BEMF).   The small flywheel  might just have enough mass to dampen it.