First time buying from Shapeways, what do I do next

[Shaggy170]

So I finally got around to getting a few things from Shapeways (hopefully they will arrive soon), but I don't know exactly what is best things to do next or if there is anything I should be aware of/careful of. I know that I will need to do the following steps:

1. Clean the parts
2. Spray a primer on them
3. Paint them
4. ...

Steps 2 and 3 seem pretty straight forward, but I have heard different things about steps 1 and 4. For cleaning, I've heard/read that I should 'soak in acetone/bestine for 20 mins/overnight' or 'soak in Simple Green cleaner for an hour'. Also, I don't know if I there is a step after painting the parts. Should I spray a clear coat or something else over the parts once I have painted them?

I want to hear what other people have done/suggest. This is my first jump into 3D parts (not counting the parts from Micro-Trains Boeing sets) and I want to do it right the first time.

Just for reference, I got 3 N scale parts. A torpedo hot metal car, a 60' flat car load of concrete ties with bracing, and the conversion kit for a Bachmann 2-6-0 to change it from a coal burner to an oil burner (based on ATSf 9446).

Thanks all in advance.

[Lemosteam]

20 minutes is not nearly long enough when just soaking.

I use Bestine in an ultrasonic cleaner for three sets of 10 minutes each.  Works beautifully.  parts and fluid will be WARM.  Immediately hold down ot tape down long thin parts on a flat surface till cool to resist warping/twisting

1A would be clean off any artifacts that can be left behind by the printing process, by carefully scraping/dragging with a sharp exacto.
1B Sand 250 grit when where necessary

2 prime- FUD/FXD is very porous and the primer will literally soak in

2a sand between coats if necessary

3 paint topcoat

3A if decaling, do what you always do

4 finish as if any other model, dull or gloss coats

Horse car roof example of my process (no dull or gloss coat) 6 coats of Tamiya TS6 after 1-2a:

[Dirk Jan Blikkendaal]

Agree with John completely.
Additions:
1 If you do not have an ultrasonic cleaner just leave the parts overnight in Bestine/nafta (also avoids the heat issue).
2 If sanding is no option (because of surface details or complicated structures) try blasting  with the Air Eraser using baking soda or fine alu grit.
As long as you do not pinpoint the nozzle too long at one point and take a couple of swipes over the parts which are affected most by the "white fuzzy stuff" all surface detail will remain unaffected.
Look for older threads on this subject in The Railwire where this procedure has been discussed at length (pro's and con's).
Good luck!.

[jpwisc]

Sanding, be prepared for lots of sanding.

[Jim Starbuck]

This is my experience and by no means the best or only way.

First off, I reject the soak it overnight approach. It seems to make the plastic much more brittle.
I have used Bestine or 91% alcohol to scrub the wax off with equally good results from both by scrubbing the the parts with a cheap Dollar store battery electric tooth brush. The part turns from translucent to white almost immediately when scrubbed and stays more pliable and less prone to breakage than soaking IMO.
After cleaning and depending on the type of part, say a truck sideframe, it gets a light airbrush coat of Tamyia surface primer then the paint of choice. If it’s a larger smooth part such as a carbody, it gets a heavy coat of automotive rattle can primer to help fill the print lines. Then as Karl said sand...and sand...then sand one more time until the combination of fill and cut gives the desired surface.

Again, so much depends on the specific printed item as to the amount of work to get what is satisfactory to you.
I have parts that have only been cleaned and painted and also shells that required a good amount of sanding to make ready for paint.
Shapeways is a great resource for specialty and low part count items not available anywhere else.

Hope this helps

[propmeup1]

I been told to soak in vinegar overnight. I've tried that since the last time soaking in GooGone.  Now the models I made two years ago now have a look little micro sparkles are showing through the black pain on the loco shell and the freight car trucks. I recall seeing something about that just the other week but could not re-locate it.

[peteski]

Just for reference, I got 3 N scale parts. A torpedo hot metal car, a 60' flat car load of concrete ties with bracing, and the conversion kit for a Bachmann 2-6-0 to change it from a coal burner to an oil burner (based on ATSf 9446).

Which material are those printed in?

[Shaggy170]

Which material are those printed in?

Two are "smoothest fine detail plastic" and the third is "White processed versatile plastic"

[Lemosteam]

So SFDP is the renamed FXD, where versatile plastic is essentially sintered nylon in various colors. I say essentially because I am not sure if there is a binder mixed in. Versatil plastic is not smooth at all. It has a pebbly finish. Regardless no cleaning is necessary on the versatile plastic.