what am I doing wrong ??

[MK]

So it's not the warmer temperature then?

[Chris333]

Yeah it is tricky to try and hold it while working the Allen wrench.

[mighalpern]

Yes
 I'm confident that the temperature was not the fault,  but its amazing how a little gap will affect the whole thing.  Maybe about .001~.002"  which is about .03 to .05 mm
 which I guess is a few layers worth.  I have a small barrel file that I'll print out in the garage tomorrow and see how that comes out,  at least not waiting 5 hours   
thanks again
Miguel

[Ian MacMillan]

Also check FEP tension.

I had a bunch of adhesion issues all of a sudden and it turned out my FEP had gone down to 215hz.  Tightened up to 330hz and back cranking out prints.

[Chris333]

Well I don't know how to check the her, but my screws were loose from the factory. I just tighten them till they bottom out.

[mighalpern]

well the learning continues
I tried 2 prints of a barrel on tuesday in the garage, and both print stuck to the plate very well, so I know the my zero is in the right place, and temperature is not a factor.  but alas the barrel never printer because it would not stick to the supports.  the second attempt I made the supports heavy and still no barrel    I have downloaded the Prusa 2.0 slicer.  I definitely like this software over the photon slicer, because I am able to rotate the plate and see the supports, where as in the photon i could never rotate the object to add supports, maybe stupid with that software or got a bum copy downloaded ,  but I think I'll search for another test barrel STL. or something similar to test again.  Frustrating for sure, but oh well got to learn somehow   

[Chris333]

I've had a few corners rip off the supports while printing, but never the whole thing. Maybe you need thicker supports instead of more?

When I add supports most of the time I'm looking right at the bottom of the part so I can pin-point right where the supports go.

[Stephane]

I suggest you download a guitar tuning app for your mobile phone.  I use gStrings for Android.  Doesn't really matter, so long as the app tells you what tone it heard when you pluck a string.  Start the app, put it on the table, and then hold your empty clean vat above the phone.  Tap the FEP film inside the VAT (I tap it using the handle of a 1/2" soft bristle brush I use for cleaning my prints).  You should tighten the screws on the underside of the VAT until the sound the FEP film makes is about 350 Hz.  Don't tighten more than 1/8th of a turn at once, it changes quickly!

My prints improved once I did this (especially reducing lines on the side of prints).  Out of the factory, the FEP film is slightly loose (or at least mine was).

[Ian MacMillan]

All of my failures I can attribute to two things, singular or together.

Room/Resin temp:
My printer is in my basement office which in the winter is around 45-50°F.  At this temp my prints will always pull away from the build plate. They may not completely fail, but the corners will be pulling. I make sure to get the room up to about 60-65, about and hour beforehand so that the resin also gets up to a decent temp (I generally leave my resin in the vat). By doing this I have no fabutter. If I dont leave my resin in the vat to speed up the resin temp I'll put my resin bottle in my ultrasonic cleaner which has a heating feature and get it up to temp.

FEP tuning:
If my temp is ok and prints begin to start pulling away from the build plate or not adhering even if the plate is level I check the FEP tension. Using a sound analyzer app I make sure that the tension is around 330-350hz. Fix that and they adhere like buttah.

[John]

My system is in the basement as well .. I had good luck with heating the printer by putting one of these a few feet away ..