P&WV 2-8-2 1053

[nickelplate759]

After some years of gathering bits and bob, I'm starting on a plan to model P&WV USRA heavy 2-8-2 1053 (ex C&NJ).    Here's a picture of the real thing.


The base is a Kato Mikado - the original run, but upgraded with new drivers and pilot truck and trailing truck (already done).
The tender is a Bachmann USRA "long" tender, modified to mate with the Kato drawbar.
Decals are really HO decals from Great Decals, but I'm going to make do with the smaller sizes of herald and lettering.
It will get DCC (TCS M1 decoder, no sound) with a Keep-Alive.

I'm not going for 100% accuracy here, but some details need to change. Foremost, the pilot.  I got an appropriate cast-metal pilot from GHQ, and yesterday I attached it to the pilot deck.  Today I looked at it, and, umm, I'm not entirely happy with it.



The green box show the problem - the extra metal behind the pilot beam.  It will all be painted black of course, but it really shouldn't be so obvious.   The assembly is epoxied together, and I don't have a ready source of spares, so I'm debating the following choices:
1. Paint it black and forget about it (and never take a close-up picture like this again!)
2. ever-so-carefully grind the visible parts of the metal away with a cutter in a Dremel tool and pray that I don't screw it up 'cause I don't know where to get replacement parts to start over.

Suggestions?

[peteski]

If the plastic piece is made from some slippery plastic, the eplxy will not have a strong hold. You should be able to separate the parts fairly easy. Then just peel the remaining epoxy off the parts, modify the metal part, then glue them back together.

[wcfn100]

From the picture I think I would fine tooth razor saw from the side then nip from the back and file finish.

Jason

[wazzou]

It looks like you could put the end you're holding with tweezers in a small vise.
If you have a Dremel and a Carbide Burr bit that comes to a pretty sharp point, with magnification, I'd carefully trim away from the outside-in until, with the addition of black paint it will no longer be noticeable.

[Lemosteam]

You might be able to get most of that using Xuron clippers from the bottom.

[nickelplate759]

Well, no one is seconding option 1 (essentially, leave well enough alone and try not to think about it), and no one has even suggested my unstated (because it's a little too difficult) but preferred option - build a time machine, go back two days, and trim the metal before I assemble things.   I guess I'll grit my teeth and carefully try and trim it enough so that it won't be visible in the finished model.

Tools I have that could be helpful (or disastrous if misapplied):
1. Panavise
2. Dremel with a drill-press stand and a variety of cutters
3. Jeweler's files  (many shapes)
4. Jeweler's saw
5. Razor saw
6. Various kinds of nipping tools - small diagonal cutters, Xuron rail cutter
7. Third hand w/alligator clips (that's what's holding the part in the photo)

[Chris333]

I just trimmed down the stock pilot and added foot boards.

[nickelplate759]

That's clever, and I might try that if I hadn't already chopped up my stock pilot (see my previous note regarding a time machine).

[mmagliaro]

I vote with Peteski: if you epoxied or CA'd that onto the Kato part, it won't hold that well and you can probably pop it right off and peel off all the glue.  Then I'd just hold the thing in my hand and file away with a diamond file (regular files work, but they load up quickly on that soft pewter).

To glue it back on after you fix it... try Walthers Goo.  A rubbery adhesive like that bonds well to things like Delrin, and if you let it set up overnight, it gets really strong.  I know it's a flexible adhesive, but it won't flex that much after it dries out.

Oh... and I almost forgot.... YAY!  A steam project!   

[Steveruger45]

There is an old workshop trick for preventing files clogging up when filing soft metals.   Rub some regular chalk on the file and reapply as needed.  I’ve found it does slow down the clogging quite a good bit.

[nickelplate759]

I vote with Peteski: if you epoxied or CA'd that onto the Kato part, it won't hold that well and you can probably pop it right off and peel off all the glue.  Then I'd just hold the thing in my hand and file away with a diamond file (regular files work, but they load up quickly on that soft pewter).

To glue it back on after you fix it... try Walthers Goo.  A rubbery adhesive like that bonds well to things like Delrin, and if you let it set up overnight, it gets really strong.  I know it's a flexible adhesive, but it won't flex that much after it dries out.

Oh... and I almost forgot.... YAY!  A steam project!   

I accept that the epoxy may not bond all that well to the plastic, but won't getting it off the metal pilot be a problem?

[peteski]

If it is 5-minute epoxy, should scrape right off.   If you used JB Weld gray epoxy, it might need a bit more elbow grease, but it will come off. You worry too much. 

[nickelplate759]

...You worry too much. 

It's a family tradition that I'm proud to uphold!

I ended up trimming the extra metal back in place.  Used a razor saw and small diagonal cutters and files.
It's not all removed, but it's inset enought that it doesn't bother me. Pictures when I get further along.

[peteski]

George,
The important thing is that you achieved your goal.    Seems that the epoxy held quite well.

[nickelplate759]

Next problem - it seems I trimmed the pilot beam a little too short (before I trimmed the excess metal in the back - separate problem).
I can extend the beam with a little styrene on both ends, but will need some kind of putty to smooth out the seam between the styrene and the pewter pilot beam.      I've never had to putty such dissimilar materials before.  Suggestions on what to use?