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Sorry if my previous post sounded a$$haterish, I didn't mean it to be.
Umm, did you mean a$$HATERish, or did you really mean a$$HATTERish? Just askin' fer unnerstandin's sake.
Update:Replaced all the layout wiring (just six wires) using T-Taps and spade connectors. I checked continuity at each step, even checked resistance across each track joiner solder joint (0 ohms) . I checked the output of the P/S and it measured 13.5 volts. Hooked up the Power Cab and measured 13 VAC at the rails. Tried the SW-7 and if still exhibited the same issues. I didn't try the Blackstone K-27, but it's looking more and more like I bought a couple of lemons. I'll know for sure in a few days when the new Blackstone C-19 shows up.Thanks,Scott
But even if it ends up not being the Power Cab, you should still consider upgrading it. With your electronics background you seem to be capable of opening the throttle case and replacing the socketed microcontroller chip. So you could just email NCE and ask them to send you the most current chip. They will probably do that at no (or minimal) charge.
If the decoder is fried I would seriously consider switching to the newest Tsunami 2 decoder . I put one in my C 25 and really really like it . And have you checked out the HOn3 yardsale IO group ? I've been seeing K27's and C19's going for around 350 ....Mike
Pete,Oh I planned on upgrading to the latest firmware version either way. However the chip isn't free, it $30.00 plus shipping. I just wanted it to be the Power Cab so I wouldn't look like a complete chump who got snookered not once but twice buying locomotives from unknown people on the internet.
Hmm. I got the chip for free at the NCE booth, few years ago at the Springfield show. I guess I just lucked out.Hey, we all get burned from time to time. There is no shame in that. If they turn out to be duds, and you got the models through eBay and the description stated that they are in working condition, you might be able to get a refund.
Scott, which C-19 is it? Inquiring narrow gauge minds want to know!Also, before you give up all hope on the K-27... Removing the tender is relatively easy--Blackstone even has a YouTube video that shows you how to do it--and the board is so big and in-your-face that you can pretty quickly tell if it's at least physically intact. Mine had a melted component and had that toasty electronics smell.I didn't read all the way back to see if you'd attempted to reset the K-27 to factory defaults, but if not, that'd be the very next step before you even bother to try to open up the tender. I don't recall for certain but I think even though they come from the factory with the road number already programmed in, that reseting the decoder to factory default resets the loco's address to 03. In case she won't respond at all to her road number after you reset, you may want to try that.
Dave,It's RGS number 40 with the sunrise herald. I wasn't going to buy another locomotive for awhile but the CFO told me to and who am I to argue with SWMBO.I really think the issue is power to the motor or the motor itself. All the sounds other than the chuff, because well...it doesn't move. Could be that the problem is in the connection between the tender and the engine as the headlight doesn't work either. Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the only thing that goes between the tender and the engine is motor and headlight power?Thanks,Scott
But, it cost me more to go to Springfield than $30, anyway.