Making a MA&PA Bobber

[mmagliaro]

Perhaps raking vertically with downward strokes with a stiff toothbrush would clean out some excess putty and preserve
the look of a vertical board line in the siding where that putty is.  I don't think paint is going to hide that.  I know... I'm being a pest, but I think flat-sanding the two sides of that seam on something really true and square before putting them together would have been easier than trying to use putty.

[davefoxx]

I know I've been a Debbie Downer on this, but I agree with Max.  I hate putty . . . almost as much as I hate ballasting.

DFF

[Dave V]

I know I've been a Debbie Downer on this, but I agree with Max.  I hate putty . . . almost as much as I hate ballasting.

DFF

FWIW, I've never been abler to get putty to work as well as I'd like either.  As has been recommended my new norm is attempting perfect cuts the first time.  Easier said than done, of course, but it's worth investing in the best tools.

[CRL]

The old carpenter’s joke works here... I’ve cut this twice and it’s still too short!

Once too much material has been removed, it can’t be put back.

[randgust]

May be more work on cleanup, but it should still work.   

I had to individually scribe and cut in all the hood door openings on both the Whitcomb and GE70-tonner kit masters, took me days.   It can be done.

I still have some green Squadron around, but I found the Tamiya white sticks a lot better, sands smoother, and if you're painting a lighter color, doesn't show through the paint.      Testors white and Squadron white are both pretty 'meh', haven't used auto body filler in years.

I think the one signature item on the prototype was those four-pane windows.  If you can pull that off....

[Rob B]

LOL, I'm good at lurking. Do yourself a favor and try to put your wheelsets in the caboose frame. That's where I found out about the problems. Mine warped so bad I couldn't use them. I used InterMountain wheelsets.

[Lemosteam]

Two tools-  Dremel 107 in the axle pocket four twists by hand, each socket, Next Dremel 105 bit in the bottom of all pockets four turns by hand.  test fit axle for roll quality.  will work for any wheelset that is for the width of thr frame.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

LOL, I'm good at lurking. Do yourself a favor and try to put your wheelsets in the caboose frame. That's where I found out about the problems. Mine warped so bad I couldn't use them. I used InterMountain wheelsets.

Which IM wheels did you use? I've been watching out for what I need.
Is it these? https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/intermountain-n-60070-33-high-detail-brass-insulated-wheelsets-12-pack/

[peteski]

I know I've been a Debbie Downer on this, but I agree with Max.  I hate putty . . . almost as much as I hate ballasting.

DFF

Another putty hater here.  Decades ago I bought some Squadron Green and Testors putties - tried them couple of times and I still have the tubes - rock hard, because the putty dried up in the tube. I don't even know why I kept them.  Maybe to remind me not to ever get any more.

I often use CA glue (and accelerator) to fill small voids or gaps.  For larger gaps CA can be filled with styrene shavings, microballons, or other fillers.

Also, trying to use putty to fill a gap already located in a very small and shallow board gap area is not going to work very well.   Applying some CA glue (with an appropriate precision applicator), then some accelerator would have likely worked better.

[Chris333]

I use AC as well, but don't think I'd do that on scribed siding 

[wazzou]

I use AC as well, but don't think I'd do that on scribed siding 

Maybe, CA would be better?   
I agree though that, cutting it proud of the length needed and carefully sanding it on a flat surface to the finished length is always the best way.

[peteski]

I use AC as well, but don't think I'd do that on scribed siding 

But would you use putty in a seam right in the board gap?  I was thinking carefully applying a standard viscosity CA (not thin or thick) using a precision applicator (I use a needle with a forked end).  The glue will flow deep into the gap.  Then apply accelerator. Repeat if more is needed.

How would you deal with it (excluding of course prepping the surfaces smooth enough not to have a gap in the first place)?

[Chris333]

How would you deal with it (excluding of course prepping the surfaces smooth enough not to have a gap in the first place)?

Well that is what I'd do 

If I were to make my own bobber, I'd cut out the whole side and replace the siding. Then add windows from a MDC caboose.



Just saying the CA would get into all the board gaps.

But yeah I would cut it way over and then sneak up on the line with a cut off wheel. Then sand or file the rest of the way using a small square against the edge, holding it up to the light so I could see where the gaps still are. Then I would hold the 2 pieces together and look again for gaps and fix till it was good. Once happy slap that sucker together with MEK.

This was a MDC old time passenger car that I cut up into about 20 pieces and glued it back together:

There is no filler. I look at the reflection of light off the surface to know when it is smooth.


But anyways I would give it a coat of primer to see what you have so far.

[davefoxx]

My vote is to get the roof and the trim work under the eaves lined up and perfect.  Then, cut the sides out, saving the ends of the caboose.   Scratchbuild the sides out of styrene freight car siding and cut out and reuse the windows, placing them where they match your prototype the best.  I don't think you'll ever hide that seam in the siding.  You can disguise the seams easier in the corners.

DFF

Well that is what I'd do 

If I were to make my own bobber, I'd cut out the whole side and replace the siding. Then add windows from a MDC caboose.

Great minds think alike!

DFF

[CRL]

It may be counterintuitive, but making the seam in the “Batton” area of the board & batton siding may make it easier to shave/sand the seam flat.