N Scale Hi Rail - Retro Hollow Core Door Layout

[wm3798]

Point and counterpoint...  the only solution is to get another door and build the same layout twice!
Lee

[wm3798]

A little pre-work Monday Morning progress...



I left the C&O Canal shelf loose so I can detail it prior to final installation.  Also toying with the idea of running a mine branch off the upper loop, running on the ledge above the B&O to add a little interest, and a potential 4th route over which to run loops.
Lee

[davefoxx]

Me likey.  This has much potential.  I look forward to following along.

DFF

[wm3798]

So in the revenue equipment department,  I received a fresh drive for the 0-8-0 that I had crumble in my hands..  It needed a working motor, so ever so carefully I pulled the screws, removed the failed motor from the newly arrived frame, and ever so carefully installed the working motor from the crumbled one.

I put it on the track, and it took some coaxing, some contact cleaner, and some oil, but it eventually ran well enough to make a loop around the Retro Rig.  On reversing, I discovered that it was binding due to a driver being one tooth out of synch, so I reached to return it to the workbench.  Inexplicably, it squirted out of my hand, I juggled it briefly, and it went crashing to the floor, something that Zamac (the crumbly alloy used by Rivarossi back in the day) doesn't respond well to.

This busted the critical point where the plate that holds the drivers in place is mounted to the pilot...  so another dead soldier.  I've got it glued, but it's just about impossible to get the alignment just right.  I guess I'm not meant to have a working copy of the first US prototype N scale steamer...

I better start working on that scrapyard diorama...  the bodies are piling up.

Lee

[wm3798]

Fortunately, in other news, we've had a breakthrough!



If you don't have an oscillating saw, you should get one!
Lee

[wm3798]

After finishing my morning work, I tinkered a bit with the 0-8-0.  I was able to repair the structural problem with a little E-6000 to secure the cross head to the smoke box, and filed back the break to make room for the adhesive to bond without moving the screw hole.  After letting it cure for a bit, everything went back together nicely.  Good fit, nothing too tight.

I carefully reassembled the valve gear, quartered the wheels, and made sure the gears were all nested properly into the drive chain.  All went well. 

I added an insulated washer to the drawbar post, which brings power from the right wheels of the tender to the motor.

And it ran.  It ran beautifully.  I carefully re-installed the shell.  Back on the track, and off it went!  Several laps in, it stalled.  I gently rocked it back and forth under power to see where it might be binding.  Nothing apparent.

Then the magic smoke came out.  The "good" motor was cooked.  Something @spookshow  points out happens a lot to these old dogs (I've already replaced the motor in one of my RR Pacifics.)

Oh well.  I'll scan around to see if I can find a factory original motor, or the later motor from ConCor that was a little more reliable.  At least I'm confident that it's mechanically in order, and the electricity flows where it's supposed to.  We won't give up on her just yet.

Lee

[DKS]

At least I'm confident that it's mechanically in order, and the electricity flows where it's supposed to.  We won't give up on her just yet.

That's good to know.

[CRL]

I remember back in the day when if your saw started oscillating, you were about to loose a body part if you couldn’t get away from it.

Now it’s a design feature.

[Doug G.]

On the 0-8-0, be sure you have the 22 tooth idler gear in the center and the two 20 tooth gears on the ends.

Doug

[wm3798]

It appears the old 0-8-0's worries might be over.


What appeals to me about it is it's burly switch engine profile, not it's shabby materials and nettlesome drive components.
It appears to have similar dimensions to a new issue Bachmann 2-8-0, which, as luck would have it, has a screw that can be loosened to remove the pilot truck!

With a little fineggling, and of course a second hand pre-DCC Connie with a road name I don't care about, this could be a thing!

[jpec]

The Spectrum Consolidation has one of the best Bachmann offered...looks and runs good. While I never owned the K4 or the articulateds every one that I saw seemed to match the quality.

[Rich_S]

It appears the old 0-8-0's worries might be over.


What appeals to me about it is it's burly switch engine profile, not it's shabby materials and nettlesome drive components.
It appears to have similar dimensions to a new issue Bachmann 2-8-0, which, as luck would have it, has a screw that can be loosened to remove the pilot truck!

With a little fineggling, and of course a second hand pre-DCC Connie with a road name I don't care about, this could be a thing!

OH NO not the WM 761, it even has a front working Micro-Trains coupler.  In my opinion my Bachmann Spectrum WM 763 Consolidation is a better performer than my two K4 Pacific's and my NKP Berkshire. The Pacific's and Berk are both growlers. That's probably why Bachmann added sound to them, to try and hide the drive train noise. 
 

[glakedylan]

Lee
i like the way this is coming together for you
and your ongoing dabbling in the retro
enjoying as i follow this thread
sincerely
Gary

[wm3798]

Tempting though it may be to dismember my WM 2-8-0, or even to buy another to scavenge, they just aren't retro enough for this project, nor can they be had very affordably in the aftermarket. 

So I ebayed a cheap White Box 2-8-2 with a Reading profile shell and a Vanderbilt tender with B&O markings...  Spookshow's review gives me hope that it can be a smooth enough runner, and I've already concocted a means of improving pick up with a new style Bachmann tender...  Years ago I modified a couple of the mechanically identical 2-8-0s into a double header, wired together to overcome the pick up issues, and they ran and pulled really well. 

So the surgery will consist of getting the Rivarossi shell to fit over the Bachmann drive (after removing the pilot and trailing trucks, of course) and fitting the original tender shell to a new chassis with all wheel pickup.  (There will be further surgery on the Vandy tender to see if I can make it work with my second RR Mikado)

In the meantime, will you please bow your heads and join me in the "I hope the white gears don't click" prayer...  I'm due to receive it on Tuesday.

Lee

[CRL]

Ommmmmmm noclicky noclicky noclicky ommmmmmmmmm.

Glad I could help.