N Scale Hi Rail - Retro Hollow Core Door Layout

[Doug G.]

Great pictures, Lee and yes, you don't want to do anything to put too much stress on the "springs" because they will be even more likely to break.

Let me know if you need any additional ones as I have a few spares.

Doug

[wm3798]

Eureka!


Plenty of gap in the resting position



And no noticeable extra strain when compressed for contact.  In fact, the spacer moves the leverage point just far enough back to make the spring more effective.

Now, over time, there's the possibility the spring will wear itself out, but I think I should get a reasonable service life out of this arrangement.  Now to rummage through the stacks of stuff to find just the right diameter collar to apply the same effect to the top leg.

I agree the slide switches are far more reliable, but they do lack the "cool" factor of the strong arms.  Plus, these are the bird in hand... I'd have to go foraging to find enough slide switches to do the job.  I'm hoping this little modification keeps my melty plastic smells to the ties I burn up while soldering track joints!

Lee

[wm3798]

In looking at it, I could probably cut off all but a nub of the lower spring and replace my styrene shim with an appropriately sized bit of spring steel...  But I'll do that if the plastic bit fails.

[Doug G.]

Looks good.

Doug

[Doug G.]

Yes, I imagine a guy could cut off both plastic springs and install metal springs in there to bear against the lever.

Doug

[wm3798]

How about a little bit of wire insulation to pad out the upper lever?
Yes, that will do nicely!



It should take about half an hour to fix up the 9 or 10 of these I have.  I'll set up a light bulb rig to test the contacts prior to connecting to them to anything expensive!

Thanks for enduring my blitherings.

Back to work now!  Lunch break is over!

Lee

[nthusiast]

I've got six of those Atlas turnouts in a box in my garage, four of which are in original packaging and unopened. They're probably 50 years old.

[wm3798]

Made some progress on the right of way this week.  Established the final track plan, got the outer loop corked, and roughed in enough wiring to run a couple of trains.



I'm going to sculp out some background cliffs from the foam panels against the walls.
Naturally, now that they have a proper habitat, the Old locomotives have entered a realm of existential crisis.  The valve gear on my Bachmann 060 is binding, and the 040 shifter is making hellish noises.

So, to prepare for foam scenery and engine work, today I built a foam engine as part of the,scenery for my stepdaughter's school musical...



Lee

[BuddyBorders]

First time posting, but frequent lurker here. This layout idea is way cool and it's nice to see the N-Scale of my youth is not dead. Always loved those Atlas switch lever actuators and hated when they melted the machines too. I'm surprised nobody has mentioned a capacitor discharge switch machine control. It eliminates (or lessens) the possibility of melting the solenoids. The capacitor stores the energy to throw the switch and won't recharge until the switch is released. You can build them to get a good, quick snap instead of an anemic buzz when you throw the turnout. Lots of plans on the 'net and they can be built fairly cheaply.

Look forward to your progress!

[milw12]

Will you do an era-appropriate vertical paneling for the fascia, preferably with a dark varnish?   

Seems like a fun project, looking forward to see this progress.

-Lucas

[Ed Kapuscinski]

First time posting, but frequent lurker here.

Welcome to the gang!

[Doug G.]

Will you do an era-appropriate vertical paneling for the fascia, preferably with a dark varnish?   

Seems like a fun project, looking forward to see this progress.

-Lucas

Bare cinder block would be apropos, too.

Doug

[davefoxx]

Regarding the amount of track, I think you missed a spot.    Oh, and don't you dare give me crap anymore about the minimum radius of the curves on my HO layout. 

DFF

[wm3798]

@davefoxx , you needn't fuss about my track plan.  It's exactly what those ancient 0-4-0s need... lots of curvature to maintain good flange contact helps to prevent stalls!  And really, I feel like I'm going to far just by moving the plan from the kitchen table, where it truly is most at home!

Today I successfully unbound the valve gear on the 0-6-0, and made a small adjustment to the 0-4-0 to smooth everything back out.  But just to be sure, I've just purchased another Atlas/Rivarossi Pacific, the same model I reworked into the WM K-2, to pull the Rivarossi B&O varnish I've been accumulating... total foob, but I've loved that set since I was a kid. By the time I could afford it, though, I "knew too much" to buy it.
 


I will have to paint the engine that wonderful blue/gray myself, though.  I've been eyeballing a couple on the popular auction site, but they keep floating up above my financial reach...

I've also got my eye on some other junk to add to my vintage freight fleet, but I might just go out the storage box and swap those newfangled Micro Trains trucks for the rock-solid technology of the 70s!

[BuddyBorders]

Welcome to the gang!

Thanks Ed! There are some very impressive modelers here to keep me inspired. Have to finish the new train room then I can get busy on hte next incarnation of the Lenape Valley