FUD vs Photon

[Chris333]

And you haven't even gotten into exposure times either 

I saw some sort of test strip you could print on FB that might help find the right settings for each resin.

[narrowminded]

And you haven't even gotten into exposure times either 

I saw some sort of test strip you could print on FB that might help find the right settings for each resin.

I saw such a thing as well.  It made sense and was part of how I came to realize that it's all a balancing act with controlled parameters.  That's also why a rigid and square running machine matters.  It has to be repeatable but as with so much machinery, if do the exact same thing you will get the exact same result, right, wrong, or otherwise.  The beauty of machinery!   It doesn't operate on mood or opinion. 

[narrowminded]

Yes .02mm layers  ( .0007"       )

And they were only tilted about 5-6 degrees. I think for best results most tilt like 30 degrees. That would make the supports and the whole model taller and double the print time.

Add someone with real 3D knowledge and it might turn out even better.

Purely speculating from what I have learned, that .02mm (.0008") dimension might be part of the sag issue on the end.  Less than .001" layers cured at a time.  It sees the light while laying flat on the glass screen, nicely supported, and then is lifted off that plate with a little bit of force sucking it down (if what I read is true) and with only .001" of partially cured resin to support that tug.  Either needs more support OR... maybe cure at .05mm (.002") so is more self supporting with 2x + the thickness.  Now THAT might show up in the finish but being resin and only another .001", would it?  I don't know but can imagine it's around these kinds of parameters that the answers will be to optimize the process with some parameters not always as they might seem at a glance.  Afterall, what could make a better finish than super fine layers?... or maybe not.  Maybe the extra thousandth would fix one thing, the sag, while causing a problem with the finish.   And maybe not.  Or maybe more supports.  Keep your nippers handy!  

Would all of this make that a sag or a learning curve? 

[Chris333]

Well yeah it needs more support, but putting one there would be right through the structure below it.

[narrowminded]

Well yeah it needs more support, but putting one there would be right through the structure below it.

I was actually wondering if increasing the layer thickness to maybe .05mm might help that.  More support through a thicker layer cured at each print interval where the Z has to cycle up and back.  Trying to gain support that way instead of adding a support.  But that might hurt overall finish.  I can see, this is going to be fun.

[Lemosteam]

I was actually wondering if increasing the layer thickness to maybe .05mm might help that.  More support through a thicker layer cured at each print interval where the Z has to cycle up and back.  Trying to gain support that way instead of adding a support.  But that might hurt overall finish.  I can see, this is going to be fun.

It will make detail suffer. especially circular details such as fillets, rivets, and bolt heads. Surfaces with alot of curvature will suffer as well.

Again, DLP resolution and layer thickness are what matter in SLA printing with respect to surface and detail quality.

[Chris333]

A smarter person could probably add a few supports that twisted up and around all the parts of the car to that edge. I'm just using the free software that came with the machine.

Narrowminded,  What do you plan to make with yours.

[narrowminded]

Narrowminded,  What do you plan to make with yours.

All sorts of odd stuff for layouts but specifically things for the Nn3  stuff.  Initially mine cars and related pieces for the mine loco but also little odd mechanical pieces as needed.  Brackets and clips and such.  I could do the bodies but the plan has always been and still remains to do them in brass for the weight.  But maybe some detail parts.  Some of that will go with the performance I find when I get it going.  I'll need a decent figure for the mine loco as that becomes almost an important part of the model, especially with an operating miner's light in his helmet.  And there will be other Nn3 locos and apps coming if I live long enough.  I can envision truck frames, light housings, FIGURES would be great.  An interior for a PCC trolley and maybe the whole shell.  Then sign frames and building details including interiors.  A monumental monument for my town center next to the passenger station is a candidate.

I want to make light bars and seating interiors for some old Bachmann shorty passenger cars that are in a box somewhere.  I won't run heavyweights because they look silly on the curves on the door layout so I'll run foobs with foob interiors and lights to maintain the full flavor of the historical foobiness of the whole deal.   Just clean them up for running so I can have a passenger train to run occasionally.  Things like that, as much as it (and I) will be able.

Edit add: And an operating manual switch stand pretty accurately scaled, that I've already made a working prototype of to prove the feasibility.  It works good.   I'm long retired and this is a fun diversion.  Making things because you want to and working on them when you want to, none of it because you have to.

[narrowminded]

A smarter person could probably add a few supports that twisted up and around all the parts of the car to that edge. I'm just using the free software that came with the machine.

I think that's part of what that Netfabb program that Mark W has referred to is good for.   I haven't even started looking at that.

[rodsup9000]

 Another way to keep the sagging to a minimum is to add some thickness to that piece. It looks like it is hidden enough that you could do that and still print it at .002 layer height. From the few prints I've done so far, the opaque resins seems print better than the translucent ones.


 

I think that's part of what that Netfabb program that Mark W has referred to is good for.   I haven't even started looking at that.

 I agree.

[Chris333]

There are casting resins that have great detail for dentists. Even ceramic resins. I'm sure you can find a way to make everything work.

[Chris333]

I think that's part of what that Netfabb program that Mark W has referred to is good for.   I haven't even started looking at that.

Is there a tutorial on adding supports in Netfabb? I have no idea now to use it.

[Mark W]

Is there a tutorial on adding supports in Netfabb? I have no idea now to use it.

There's a good set of videos on YouTube that I used.  I'll track them down in the morning.


Interesting how it's 2am CST, and almost all the Manycubic owners are online right now...   Must be something in that resin? 


https://i.imgur.com/NzEhv2Y.jpg

[rodsup9000]

There's a good set of videos on YouTube that I used.  I'll track them down in the morning.


Interesting how it's 2am CST, and almost all the Manycubic owners are online right now...   Must be something in that resin? 

https://i.imgur.com/NzEhv2Y.jpg

 It must be in the resin.

 BTW, Mark, the crossarms came out great. I'll try to get some pics up tomorrow of them.


 Also on the netfabb thing, are you using the free downloaded one???? Cause I used my free trial a log time ago. I don't see where to add the support in the free one.

[Chris333]

Yes free version with the internet block in firewall.