Waterproof vs: Non-waterproof India Ink

[narrowminded]

Looks good Mark.
If you have a lot of wood to stain soak it in the India ink mix for a while and to get even more variation use two or even three tubs of differing strength mix.
Timber looks good after it is left to dry.
Put all three piles in the one pile then randomly select the timber whilst you build.
You get good variation this way.
Have fun.
Rod.

Thanks, Rod.  And while we're at it... lumber yard wood.  What sizes look right and what material stains well?  I ask because true scale sizes for something like a 2x4 seem like they won't resemble anything at all.   And some plywood sheets?  Maybe cut from thin Balsa sheets?

[Maletrain]

For N scale plywood, I would use 0.005" thick Evergreen plastic sheets and cut them to 0.3" x 0.6" rectangles.  That would be just slightly thicker than scale 3/4" plywood.  You could also try paper, but that might be hard to color without making it into a mess - maybe try shading lightly with colored pencil?

Scale 2" x 4" lumber is a real pain to make stacks of individual boards.  Evergreen 0.010" x 0.020" strips can be cut to appropriate lengths and be scale 1.6" x 3.2", but you need to cut a lot of them to fill a bin.  You can cheat by making larger rectangles and scribing the sides and ends with a sharp Exacto blade, but unless that is done very precisely, it is easy to make that look "off".  But, a few loose boards on top of some simulated bundles should pass the "2-foot test".

Bigger timbers get easier to make from strip stock and also easier to scribe fake bundles.

Scale "1 inch" thick boards can be made with various widths of Evergreen 0.005" thick strips.  I would not want to try to make many individual 1" x 2" or 1" x 4" boards, but the larger sizes often used a shelving are much easier to produce.

Not sure how I would color the plastic strips.  Paint would destroy the effect by rounding the edges and making them much thicker.  A stain of some sort would be best. 

Does anybody have an idea how to stain styrene a very light tan color without warping it?

[narrowminded]

I'm going to try machining a block of wood at 2x4 dimensions and see if it has any promise.  I'll use a pointed 10 degree engraving cutter at about .005" deep.  IF it looks OK it won't be hard to run what I need.  This is an example of where the spindle truing prompted by the miniature handwheel for Max contributes to the effort, affording a fine line and not beating up such a spindly cutter.  This is the referenced thread for those not familiar.  https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=44651.0

[Santa Fe Guy]

There is several scale timber suppliers, Northeastern and Kapler from Fast Tracks just a couple.
Both of these stain very well. In fact I have been using a craft Walnut stain made by Ranger industries in your neck of the woods called Distress Stain.
It is used for staining paper that is used in card making (pinched it from the missus) This is fast and easy as I just use the sponge on top and comes in a range of colours.
You can also try Minwax stains that come in a small applicator to touch up furniture. Lots of colours and ideal for applying directly to timber.
For styrene, Use a very fine razor saw to apply some grain to it. Sand it smooth then spray it a light coat of flat white and let it dry. Apply a spray of Dullcote let that dry.
Then give it a very light wash of your India ink solution and let it dry. Also make up a solution using Sepia Ink this will make some variations in your timber colour.
Should look like weathered wood.
Have fun.
Rod.

[nkalanaga]

For plywood, how about Manila folder stock?  Do they even sell those anymore? 

I've had good luck with 80-column keypunch cards, but I'm sure no one has THOSE, unless they worked with computers 30+ years ago.

[narrowminded]

... Should look like weathered wood.
Have fun.
Rod.

That's one of my problems.  This is supposed to be brand new lumber fresh from the sawmill.   But all of those techniques have been noted for future mine and mill projects.  They should work well!

[narrowminded]

For plywood, how about Manila folder stock?  Do they even sell those anymore? 

Funny you say that.  I have some card stock in various colors that I figured would work for sign boards of various colors, building interior details, and the like.  From a very appropriate wood colored sheet I actually cut a couple of narrow strips with the paper cutter and while that might be made to work I determined it would be very tedious so moved on.  Giving it more thought due to your prompting, an effort worth trying might be to draw very light lines with a very sharp pencil to simulate the board separation rather than try to cut them.  Would probably be good from a galloping horse and glued stacks would probably simulate the fine stacking variations up the sides, giving a proper 3D effect.  I may still give that a try.  If it works it can all be sealed with dullcoat for good duarbility.  Maybe even score the paper or just pressure impress the lines.  More to ponder and try.

I'll try this as well as machining a wood block.

[narrowminded]

@nkalanaga

Here's the first attempt at a stack of 2x4x8's using paper card stock.  The bundle footprint is 4'x8', all cut with a paper cutter.   Each rectangle glued to the next into a stack, aligning by eye to assure realism.  Glued up assembly is sealed with Krylon Flat Crystal Clear.  This has promise.    A little practice with the pencils should only get better.

Colored paper, standard black pencil, brown pencil, cut and stacked paper rectangles, and a few stray cut pieces on top intended to resemble a few loose boards as the stack is consumed. 

And some phone pics:

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[narrowminded]

Second try.  Went for a bundle of 4x8 plywood sheet this time.  Also changed to thin CA brush applied to the perimeter and then top and bottom face to stiffen up the edges, reduce the mushrooming of the wet and softened edges when using white glue.  The CA darkens the paper a little, still good for a wood color to my eye.  Tried a little dry brushing, too.  I could do a little better with that but viewing it in place this method of stacking and gluing colored paper looks quite acceptable to me with this version being a little more crisp in the detail and hopefully a little more durable.   I think I'll use it.

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[peteski]

The coating of CA glue makes it translucent, but viewed in person it probably looks ok.

[narrowminded]

Did some more, banded full pallets this time.  Getting better with practice.  These have only one coat of dull-coat over everything.   Board lines were printed this time and then muted with a dry brush of khaki acrylic, same color as used on the interior structure of the building.  Then some dry brush with oxide brown and red pencil on the ends.  Still glued up with fast/ thin AC.  It soaks in to the paper and stiffens it all up pretty well.  The banding is thread and is probably a little wide at 1.4"/ 1.6" (.009"/ .010" actual).

The pics:

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[peteski]

Well, I'll be dipped!  That looks like wood! Impressive!

[narrowminded]

Thanks, Pete.

I may change the banding to silver.  That color would be appropriate too and not be so starkly different than the background so even if it's the same size I don't think it would look as large as the black banding does.  Anybody else have any ideas?

[peteski]

Thanks, Pete.

I may change the banding to silver.  That color would be appropriate too and not be so starkly different than the background so even if it's the same size I don't think it would look as large as the black banding does.  Anybody else have any ideas?

Silver might be too bright (opposite of black).  How about just plain medium gray?

[narrowminded]

Silver might be too bright (opposite of black).  How about just plain medium gray?

Yes.  Silver/ gray, whatever looks correct from her extensive sewing box.   I think the idea is sound. 

Time will tell.  I'm leaving on another several week road trip so it will be a little while until I mess with it.  New England this time.