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Steve, I did look at that, but anything more than 2.5-3mm would then interfere with the front light pipe. It extends back about half the light shield area. Plus the hassle of the motor contacts, I figured the custom enclosure was quickest. Honestly, setting up for all the in process photos took about the same amount of time as actual assembly; and then add the loading of sound project and tuning/speed curve setup.
Great install Rick.I can see where the rear piece of 0.020 styrene is lifting the rear of the board to give more room for the speaker, but I can't see where the styrene is placed at the front. Is it just to the rear of the front contacts?thanks for sharingJohnF
Funny, even thought I grew up (in Poland) immersed in the metric system, after living in USA for 38 years I am more used to the imperial measurements. When doing woodwork or larger home improvement projects I do use the fractions, but for N scale I use decimal notation of the imperial measurements. After all, most scratch-building materials (like sheet styrene) come in imperial thicknesses (like 0.020").
Back on topic... Is the a train why the speaker is facing away Fein the enclosure? Does this product better sound?
There is another reason why I prefer, if possible, to mount this way. By having the wires and solder points inside the enclosure, you eliminate any possibility of shorting the speaker. One should always ensure that the assembly will prevent this anyway, but a simple precaution like this ....
I do almost all my modeling in metric. It's just more precise and easier to convert ratios in my head on the fly. Our cars are made in Japan so I haven't touched an imperial socket wrench in years.
I do almost all my modeling in metric. It's just more precise...
I do hear though that the good old USA will go metric soon.....we will have 10 inches in a foot 😁
Hilariouis!!! I'll have to remember that one!!!!!
Nicely done, Rick.What are the dimensions of the speaker enclosure?@Lemosteam:I ask because John LeMerise might be interested in doing a 3D print for a "generic" enclosure like this. It might be useful for a bunch of different locos of the same general chassis size/layout as the GP38 (e.g., GP40, GP50, GP60 maybe even the GP35, Alco C420, etc.). Also, I wonder if that enclosure could have come out another mm or so toward the rear. I don't know how much room you need on the back shelf for the rear light/numberboard assembly, but that looks like more than necessary.And I wonder if there is room to stash a couple of keep-alive caps in the "lightbox" up front . . . John C.