Looking for a commonly found flat steel to put under track

[PAL_Houston]

Google "magnetic tape roll" at Lowes or Walmart.   you should be able to route a slot to accept that into plywood or another substrate of your choice.

[narrowminded]

Google "magnetic tape roll" at Lowes or Walmart.   you should be able to route a slot to accept that into plywood or another substrate of your choice.

That looked good, too.   And then I read the reviews.   It's inexpensive enough to try, though.  Maybe they were trying to hang their lawnmowers.

[peteski]

I have feeling that any of those flexible magnetic (vinyl) strips will perform poorly as compared to metal.  Just like those crappy flexible magnets in old Rivarossi motors.

[Chris333]

I have 2 magnetic business cards here at work that barey stick to each other. I'll take em hime at try though.

[narrowminded]

The intent I had in mind wasn't for the card to do the job but something for the real magnet to attract to and easy to work with.  It may be too weak anyway because there has to be enough ferrous material for the magnet to attract.  What's optimum?  I don't know.

A way to get some good high carbon metal under there neatly and uniformly, along the same idea as the 1/8" square bar, would be to use multiple pieces of music wire laid parallel and held up against the bottom of the rails.  Something in the .030"/ .045" range should be very workable.  Make up saddle pieces that attach to the ties from underneath, every 10th tie or so, whatever seems to guide sufficiently and hold/ guide the wires up against the bottoms of the ties. 

When I have tried it, Atlas flex track ties would solvent weld to ABS or styrene so it would be a good, strong joint.  The saddle should have a trough that accepts the height of the wire and the width of whatever multiple you decide to use.  The real concern would be keeping them centered and laying flat and flush with the tie bottoms.  The wire joints could be staggered to help keep the whole mess in line.  Try different numbers of wires but I wouldn't be surprised if 3-4 wires wide would be sufficient. 

[peteski]

A way to get some good high carbon metal under there neatly and uniformly, along the same idea as the 1/8" square bar, would be to use multiple pieces of music wire laid parallel and held up against the bottom of the rails.  Something in the .030"/ .045" range should be very workable.  Make up saddle pieces that attach to the ties from underneath, every 10th tie or so, whatever seems to guide sufficiently and hold/ guide the wires up against the bottoms of the ties. 

You mean like this? Music wire is rather hard to form around curves. The wire used for suspended ceilings is much easier to deal with.  Or maybe even florists wire.

[wcfn100]

I used music wire on this TomyTec bus.

I would think a thicker wire and the bigger magnet in the chassis would have some affect.

Jason

[narrowminded]

You mean like this? Music wire is rather hard to form around curves. The wire used for suspended ceilings is much easier to deal with.  Or maybe even florists wire.

Yes, like that.   I missed it.  

But I would try music wire specifically, purchased in straight lengths.  It doesn't have to bend any more than the radius of the track and would tend to lay very nicely.  Flexible enough to follow the curves but enough spring back to not try to take a set while being worked.  They'll lay very well.  Just a suggestion of something to try.  Without experience with this exact use I can't promise it but I strongly suspect it would prove easiest to work with.   Go with the heaviest that handles well but I suspect .030" would be safe and suspect that .045" or larger would be too stiff.  That's seat of the pants from handling the stuff, especially making springs.  Good luck!

[peteski]

Yes, like that.   I missed it.  

But I would try music wire specifically, purchased in straight lengths.  It doesn't have to bend any more than the radius of the track and would tend to lay very nicely.  Flexible enough to follow the curves but enough spring back to not try to take a set while being worked.  They'll lay very well. 

Fair enough.

[narrowminded]

Another thing that might work and be easy to deal with is small diameter wire rope.  In small diameters I believe it's called control cable.  McMaster carries it for sure.  There are a lot of choices but I would go with the cheapest one that's steel, flexible, and has a sufficient diameter.  The flexibility is usually accomplished in a 7x7 strand cable, regardless of diameter.  Look through their data and pick what seems best.  So many choices.

[Lemosteam]

Another thing that might work and be easy to deal with is small diameter wire rope.  In small diameters I believe it's called control cable.  McMaster carries it for sure.  There are a lot of choices but I would go with the cheapest one that's steel, flexible, and has a sufficient diameter.  The flexibility is usually accomplished in a 7x7 strand cable, regardless of diameter.  Look through their data and pick what seems best.  So many choices.

Nope- tried that in my experiments.  the solid wire fared much better.  There really is no need to

I'm telling you the magnetic paint for $20/QUART will do the trick, no forming, no bending, no cutting. Roll/brush it on in several coats (3-4) and go.

All, make no mistake.  If Chris wants traction, the wire is not as effective as sheet metal underneath.  He also has no idea what magnet is in the chassis, its properties, how strong it is, etc.

Also as the wire deviates from the center of the magnet, the attraction reduces, and unless you route the groove to a very consistent depth, the wire will either not let the track sit flat or will be too deep.

My experiments used very powerful magnets for their size and as Nick points out the depth has an exponential effect on attraction, so the wire depth did not have an effect on my tests.

The bus has virtually no friction and does not need to pull (push) anything but its light self.

[peteski]

  He also has no idea what magnet is in the chassis, its properties, how strong it is, etc.

John, while I don't have one of these chassis in my hand, the photo Chris posted is pretty telling.



That sure looks like one of the very strong rare-earth magnets (similar to the ones you used in your experiment) which are so popular nowadays.  It is also huge (compared to the size of the chassis) and mounted very low.

Totally unrelated to the magnet subject, one thing that worries me about that model is that both worms and worm gears are made of brass. That is a big no-no.  Maybe each one is made from slightly different brass alloy.  I hope.  What is also interesting is that the worm shaft also appears to be made of brass (non-magnetic).

[Chris333]

And that the shaft has real ball bearings. And even though the motor is small and only take 3volts. It has a gearhead attached to it. So I doubt those worms are ever turning very fast.

Of coruse a few have played around with DCC.

/>And PWM.

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These small locos are only about an inch long!

[narrowminded]

And that the shaft has real ball bearings. And even though the motor is small and only take 3volts. It has a gearhead attached to it. So I doubt those worms are ever turning very fast.

Because the worms are running pretty slow you may get away with it but it isn't ideal.  You could probably get delrin gears if the need should arise.   But at three volts, what about lighting it?

[Chris333]

  But at three volts, what about lighting it?

You just asked that to a guy who yanks the bulb, LED, whatever out of everything I own as I model the daytime. I think MV lenses look much better.