N Scale Enthusiasts 6 Pickle cars

[Roger Holmes]

Let me look at the bottom tonight. 

[wazzou]

Let me look at the bottom tonight.

Lol! 

[Tom L]

Another AMB kit. I built my own flat car as I wanted a straight sill with no stake pockets.

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Tom L

[Roger Holmes]

I checked the bottom of the flat car that I used for my AMB pickle car and there are no markings which IIRC is consistent with it being from Red Caboose.  I also noticed that the car looks much better in person rather than under the harsh cell phone flash used in the photo I posted.  The colors, particularly the boxcar red, are mellow under room lighting.  Also the cell photo made it look like there was a  layer of crud on the side sills.  Photography has never been my forte.

[robert3985]

I checked the bottom of the flat car that I used for my AMB pickle car and there are no markings which IIRC is consistent with it being from Red Caboose.  I also noticed that the car looks much better in person rather than under the harsh cell phone flash used in the photo I posted.  The colors, particularly the boxcar red, are mellow under room lighting.  Also the cell photo made it look like there was a  layer of crud on the side sills.  Photography has never been my forte.

Now, for a little thread-drift....

Actually, photographs of models show us their flaws without mercy.  When I'm working on a contest entry, I'll take close-up, hi-res photos from several different angles under harsh light so that all of its flaws and my mistakes become much more evident and I can fix 'em before progressing to the next step. 

I think it's a great tool for improving my work.

When I finish a model, I take close-ups of it too, and if it looks good under the harsh, merciless eye of my sharp DSLR's lens, then I know it meets my work standards and is ready for the unforgiving eyes of the contest judges.

In my experience photographing model trains, sharp photos ALWAYS provide a more critical look at everything than my eyes do, except when it comes to the color of things, which is a matter of preference and perception, not exact science. 

One way I've attempted to narrow the difference between perception and reality is to convert all of my workshop and trainroom lights to "daylight" color temperature (5000 deg. K) LED's, which not only makes it easier to take photos of things, but also aids my perception of color when mixing custom colors (i.e. "flesh", rust, concrete, asphalt, etc.), weathering and doing various aspects of scenery.  I don't get surprised any more when taking a model I've just weathered out of the workshop and placing it on the layout...it looks the same.  When I'm looking at reference photos I've taken of various places in Weber and Echo Canyons in bright, natural sunlight, I know that the colors I use for leaves, grass, water and other scenic aspects will match pretty well what I photographed because the colors on my prints are not messed up by being looked at under "warm" or greenish light...but under lights that are the accepted standard for "daylight".

Okay...'nuff said.  Back to pickles!

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[nkalanaga]

Bob:  Really off topic, but do you know if anyone makes LED light strips to replace fluorescent tubes?  There was talk of such a thing in the tech news several years ago, but I've never seen, or heard, anything more.  Since most office and commercial buildings use fluorescents, it would seem to be a good seller.

[robert3985]

Bob:  Really off topic, but do you know if anyone makes LED light strips to replace fluorescent tubes?  There was talk of such a thing in the tech news several years ago, but I've never seen, or heard, anything more.  Since most office and commercial buildings use fluorescents, it would seem to be a good seller.

@nkalanaga

Interesting question.  I did a quick Google and got this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Euri-Lighting-40W-Equivalent-4-ft-Bright-White-Hybrid-T8-Linear-LED-Light-Bulb-ET8-1140H-20/300517175?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D27E-LightBulbs%7c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_byVyN7d1QIVDqppCh2qHAajEAQYAiABEgJUwPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CMC0487e3dUCFQZ7AQodB-cAdA

A bit expensive at nearly ten bucks per 40W (equivalent) 48" long "linear LED light bulb", but it'll probably never burn out or start flickering and it uses only 7 watts...a significant power savings, but I didn't find this brand in 5000K. 

I found these at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Hykolity-Equivalent-Qualified-Fluorescent-Replacement/dp/B01JOHR2DW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502955595&sr=8-3&keywords=led+linear+light+bulb#Ask

The sales pitch on this brand is convincing, and since I'm building a new shop with three 48" T8 fixtures overhead, I'll be ordering the 5000K versions in a 6 pack for $5.83 ea. with no shipping thru Amazon Prime.

Thanks for the topic divergence!  It was timely for me!

Edit: It's probably good to know there are at least two types of 4' fluorescent tube replacements (1) Hybrid LED Linear Light Bulbs, which don't require any re-wiring of the original fixture, and (2) Single-End Powered Tubes, which require straight 120VAC with no ballast or starter.  It's an easy conversion and from my limited search, the price savings is significant in favor of the Single-End Powered Tubes.

Additionally, LED's incorporate circuitry that converts AC to DC, so there isn't any flickering, but nice, constant light...which is both good on the eyes and better from a safety standpoint if you're using spinning equipment (no strobe effect).

I'm gonna re-post this in its own thread since I think it's significant.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[orionfield]

Nice! I've been wanting some coffin pickle cars!

[nkalanaga]

Bob:  Thank you, and I saw your other post.

[up1950s]

Well I pulled the trigger and pre-ordered one of each of the three types offered by NSE .

Still going to build some though . Ordered a couple of MTL straight sided 50' flats which will be shortened and truss rodded . I also will de-stake pocket it . AMB's pickle superstructures have arrived and will go on top .