Best Of Detailing the Micro-Trains BNSF Fuselage Set

[pmpexpress]

I'm starting to wonder if the rear break wheel is only on the Skybox style, which has doors on the opposite end, and not the angled component box which only has rear doors.

I saw the platforms and box thing, which looks less like a toolbox on closer look.  Any ideas what that may be?

Although several previously constructed HO models were seemingly fitted with component box mounted brake-wheels, thinking I am going to have to review the dozens of BNSF Boeing train videos that have been downloaded over the years to get us some answers on the proper brake-wheel location.

Judging from its size, like "smart" EOTs, the box might house electronic equipment for monitoring air brake pressure and providing radio transmitted telemetry that includes rear end car movement.

There are a few things that immediately became apparent in your screen-shots:

1, The yellow "Excess Height" placards on the sides of the component box have completely faded to white.

2. Though the white door lettering is clearly visible, the white paint and the black "Excess Height" text is completely worn off the areas above the doors.

While the ones on the component box are longer and do not appear to have perforation holes, the platforms are similar to those that are found on the Intermountain PS 5277 Cubic Foot Boxcars.

Are you planning on adding cut levers to your models?

[wcfn100]

Although several previously constructed HO models were seemingly fitted with component box mounted brake-wheels, thinking I am going to have to review the dozens of BNSF Boeing train videos that have been downloaded over the years to get us some answers on the proper brake-wheel location.

On the angled component box flats, it may not be a 'wheel' but a lever along the side sill on the opposite end as the box.

Jason

[wcfn100]

Here's TTMX at two different times.

In 2006 it had a regular drop style brake wheel where the floor would be cut in a semi circle to allow the wheel to go flush.



Then in 2014 the same car which I believe show the lever style brake handle.




Here's a different car in 2006 with the brake wheel dropped.



Jason

[wcfn100]

Here's a screen grab that show the level brake pretty well.



Jason

[pmpexpress]

Jason,

Thanks for sharing.

These are some great photos that I have never seen before.

Any idea what the location for the train running down the middle of the city street is?

Does anyone manufacture an N-Scale lever brake casting?

Mark,

Two of Jason's photo uploads appear to show a short, centered front door and some additional white text that is offset toward one side of the lower front section of the front of the box.

Is the additional small door another variation?

[EspeeGoldenState]

Any idea what the location for the train running down the middle of the city street is?

Pretty sure that is Fort Collins, CO.  Sadly there is no more street running there.

Chris

[pmpexpress]

Pretty sure that is Fort Collins, CO.  Sadly there is no more street running there.

Chris

Chris,

Thanks for your reply.

No more street running there???

[Mark W]

Thanks for all the info Jason!  I'm going to try and re-mount the wheel flush with the deck on the next one.

Neville, I think the small door is standard, or at least it's shown up on all the clear photos I've seen.

[Mark W]

Got the white paint on.  Also want to show how I'm mounting the box with gravity and two strips of styrene.

The rear strip acts to center and prevent sliding forward, the front block keeps it from moving back.  The resin piece itself has a notch that straddles the raised center deck rail.  This notch will have to be filled in if used on a bare deck flatcar, as it seems most photos depict, and then you'll need a full width strip for front centering. 

http://i.imgur.com/xXDj82E.jpg

Also finally got some photos of the TSC for @Nick Lorusso

You can see in order to keep the ride height of the 89' down, the N Scale coupler only goes up from the box, which hugs the truck way back underneath.  On the left side, the usual truck mount coupler.  The boxes don't align, but the coupler still does.

http://i.imgur.com/TFyRhJV.jpg

My intention was to keep the TSCs truck mounted, and in a way that could be non-destructive to the use of the original N Scale couplers.  I did not want to simply body mount the TSC because of some of the performance issues noted in the TSC threads and the promise of improved version 2 coming from MTL.  I'm holding out until then.

So the solution was to heat weld the long shank TSC all the way down the shank.  Then cut that now single piece shank, stack, and weld an elbow.  I effectively made a True Scale Unimate by doing this. 
http://i.imgur.com/FsvQu94.jpg

The two major troubles I had with this band-aid would be easily resolved by body mounting the TSC (which would also eliminate the need for an elbow).  First vertical slip.  These don't give any room for vertical error; and even when they align perfect, when you have a long heavy freight and that long shank, going all the way back to the truck of the 89', it's slip city.  Body-mounting would eliminate vertical freedom of the coupler.
The other issue was the 89' connected directly to the locomotive.  The loco being body mount would swing its coupler out over curves, yet the 89' still truck mounted, tried to 'turn' into the curve.  The heavier loco won and pulled the 89' out off the rails.  There are 24" radius curves.   

As I mentioned earlier, I've gone back to N Scale couplers for the front car.  But I kept the TSC's on next 3 cars.  Aside from the occasional vertical slip, they're holding up. 

[Edit: Image URLs]

[heyrob]

Any idea what the location for the train running down the middle of the city street is?

The city street running shot is in downtown Renton, WA, about three rail miles from end of their journey by rail. This is the former Pacific Coast/Milwaukee Road rail through town, where the track cut about a 1,000 foot swath somewhat diagonally across three city blocks.

[orionfield]

Really enjoying your analysis, I've always been interested in aircraft cars, and have been on the fence about buying the MT set, due to my own person rivet counting, but your modifications and notes have more than helpful in helping me make up my mind, thanks for that!

[Mark W]

I played with one of the flats and re-mounted the breakwheel like so, cutting off the old molded on break wheel bits (left the rod on attempt to disrupt paint/decals as little as possible).  While I was at it, I figured I might as well do new grab-irons.   I used a small brad-point drill bit to start the indented hole, then cleaned it up with a #11 blade.

Now the questions is how do I touch up the new stuff without ruining the existing paint/decals. 


http://i.imgur.com/UR37dun.jpg


[Edit: Image URLs]

[peteski]

Now the questions is how do I touch up the new stuff without ruining the existing paint/decals. 

I would try to find (or mix) some paint to match as closely as I could (I'm usually pretty good at matching paint), then maybe even weather the car to hide any slight color mismatch.

[Mark W]

Looking back at Jason's 2014 photo, maybe I don't even need to match the paint!  They sure didn't.

Edit: But wait.. the break wheel is pre-2014... back to square one. 

[Mark W]

I can't figure out if this video is fake or not.  I find the first four containers way more amusing than they actually are.  But then that 5th one!   

It's gotta be fake, right?