Best Of The TP56/TP70 Kitbash thread N scale

[keeper]

Thanks a lot for all the help, much appreciated!

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I will go DCC. I'll use the DZ126T decoder.

Thomas 

[jpwisc]

Installed some grab irons. I used straight ones because I could not get the drop grab irons.[/img]

Train-Worx Part #404. Readily available and they look much nicer than bent brass wire.

[peteski]

Thanks a lot for all the help, much appreciated!

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I will go DCC. I'll use the DZ126T decoder.

Thomas 

Then Ron's latest version of the hookup info (cut-up board) will work. I would eliminate the green connection and attach yellow wire directly to the right side board.  I'm sure Ron just showed the green wire to demonstrate the electrical connections if the board was left uncut.

[u18b]

Then Ron's latest version of the hookup info (cut-up board) will work. I would eliminate the green connection and attach yellow wire directly to the right side board.  I'm sure Ron just showed the green wire to demonstrate the electrical connections if the board was left uncut.

Yeah... it was late last night and I wasn't clear.

The yellow wire COULD go directly to the cab LED board.  As Peteski said.

But my thinking is simply one thing- hiding that wire.
Decoder wire.... thin as it is.... is pretty fat when you are trying to hide it.

That's why I use that thin magnet wire.
It hides very easily behind the center post on the windshield.


Here is my pic of the magnet wire placed behind the post.

[peteski]

Yeah... it was late last night and I wasn't clear.

The yellow wire COULD go directly to the cab LED board.  As Peteski said.

But my thinking is simply one thing- hiding that wire.
Decoder wire.... thin as it is.... is pretty fat when you are trying to hide it.

That's why I use that thin magnet wire.
It hides very easily behind the center post on the windshield.

I see where you are going.  That is why I mentioned earlier that it doesn't make sense to use the circuit board with the LED on it for the rear headlight in the cab.

[keeper]

But my thinking is simply one thing- hiding that wire.
Decoder wire.... thin as it is.... is pretty fat when you are trying to hide it.

That's why I use that thin magnet wire.
It hides very easily behind the center post on the windshield.

That's what I'm trying to do... 

I see where you are going.  That is why I mentioned earlier that it doesn't make sense to use the circuit board with the LED on it for the rear headlight in the cab.

Yes, but I'm not quite how I will mount everything under the roof. We will see...

Thomas 

[u18b]

There will be PLENTY of room in the roof if there is no weight like I used.

[keeper]

Time for an update...


The styrene blocks are glued to the frame. The screws will hold the truck.
The two holes on the right are for screws which will go into a weight which will be glued inside the cab.


This is the decoder glued on top of the gear tower. It is a Digitrax DZ126T.
It is very different to the one Ron used and it is not possible to solder on plugs.


Modified Kato boards. Thanks again for the help setting this up.


I glued styrene channels to the roof of the cab. These will hold the light board.


I think you get the idea. It's not finished yet.

Thomas 

[Philip H]

@keeper - I REALLY want your brass frame. 

[keeper]

@keeper - I REALLY want your brass frame. 

There are two options for this:

1)
I would have to open a Shapeways shop.
This is my only item, so I don't know it makes sense.

2)
I could order the frame again and send it to you.
The question is how many of you would like to have this frame?
Odering all at once would make more sense because it would reduce the cost for shipping.

Thomas

[u18b]

@keeper,
I love what you are doing.

One thing that might warrant caution....  you might want to flip the LED board in the cab.

The resistor might get a little warm... and it is touching the inner cab roof.

By flipping it, you have the board itself as a barrier to the shell.

Not sure how that would effect the LOOKS of the interior, but heat would be less of a problem.

Just a thought.
 

[keeper]

Ron,

That's a good idea. When I paint the board, the resistor might look as a part of the interior, maybe the inlet of the air conditioner....

Thomas

[u18b]

What was the price of the frame?

I haven't seen that.

I might be up for one.  Thinking about making a private road TP56.

[peteski]

Looks great Thomas!  It is also interesting to see the progression of the design (you added the custom made brass frame).

[keeper]

What was the price of the frame?

I think it was 19 Euro for the raw brass print.

Thomas