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Here is the front of the truck. This might not work because maybe you can't remove material from the cover because that spot holds the worm bearing.So let's try the other end. This is my first choice. Room seems to be better.Disadvantage is that we have to couple the shafts somehow.One possibility might be to trim the Kato SD40-2 cup and use it like a joiner to join the shafts.Another possibility might be to cut and splice the B unit grey shaft and make it VERY short.If that works, a Shapeways part might work.
So there isn't a compound gear below the worm? I guess I've never noted that but also wouldn't have been looking at that detail to commit it to memory. Just a simple clean and oil. BUT I do have an older one here from my brother that needs maintenance that I just didn't get to yet. And when I look at the bottom of the truck on a couple that I have, the final drive gears are offset to one side and that is usually the tell that there's a one piece, compound gear up in there. Unless the worm is offset. Next time I have one opened up I'll have to give that a closer look. It sure would make a rocketship, even more than a 36:1 truck would.
Yes the older trucks (conventional low-friction design from all the manufacturers) do have compound worm gear with the larger gear meshing with the worm and smaller with the idlers. Like you said, the final drive gears are offset. The trucks with integral worm have all gears centered.
Hmmm, I wonder what the thinking in that was. Are all of the gears bevel cut, too?
Um, not that I can tell. The gears (that also mesh with the worm) seem to be straight-cut. Unless the angle is so slight that it is not really noticeable.The top gear meshes with the worm and with idler gears.
The Railwire is not your personal army.