Best Of The TP56/TP70 Kitbash thread N scale

[up1950s]

Very Cool Ron .

[randgust]

Very cool Ron. Another thought for consideration... if you guys wanted to get some slower operation you'll need to use a gear head. Why not use the motors that you bought on ebay (or a shorter version of one of them) with the gizmoszone gearhead and one modification...

Disassemble the gear head (probably a 1:5.14) and remove the drive shaft. From this photo, it looks like a shaft with a plate on the end that has six little holes in it:

David, that's what I did on mine back on page 11 - married up a Gizmoszone 5.14:1 gearhead with a Kato motor.  Chris333 has now done the same thing on his railbus chassis (separate thread).   I simply drilled out one end of the Roco plastic universal to fit the shortened Gizmoszone gearhead shaft, nothing to it.  The old Roco E7 truck frame has the gear tower offset well to one end, but honestly, after looking at how much space is left between the front of the nose and where my motor ended up, I think the Kato truck would have worked as well.   I'm not going to redo mine, but I'm not recommending the E7 as an alternative either, just the Kato + gearhead.

[Chris333]

I wonder how the newer Bachmann 7x16 coreless motor would work in this chassis? The motor is used in their 4-6-2, 4-6-0, 2-6-0, and the Arnold SW1.

[u18b]

I wonder how the newer Bachmann 7x16 coreless motor would work in this chassis? The motor is used in their 4-6-2, 4-6-0, 2-6-0, and the Arnold SW1.

I already pulled one.
The motor has a 1mm shaft I think (flywheel) would have to come off).

But the motor is much longer.

[mmagliaro]

Very cool Ron. Another thought for consideration... if you guys wanted to get some slower operation you'll need to use a gear head. Why not use the motors that you bought on ebay (or a shorter version of one of them) with the gizmoszone gearhead and one modification...

Disassemble the gear head (probably a 1:5.14) and remove the drive shaft. From this photo, it looks like a shaft with a plate on the end that has six little holes in it:



One of you guys with a mill/lathe might be able to replicate that part in metal, but instead of the fat shaft you could make a 1 shaft that is the right length to fit through the worm on the truck. It would be quite a feat of micromachining but you might be able to pull it off somehow. Either that or remachine the shaft on the 1.5mm extended shaft gear motors.

Gizmoszone sells versions of these motors with brass "D" shaped shafts that are 1.5mm in diameter, and 1.2mm at the flatted portion of the "D".  They oddly don't offer the brass shaft in the 5.25:1 version, only in the 26:1: ( part  GH8102S-B on their website ).  But you could probably buy two, take them apart, and substitute the brass piece into the 5.25:1 motor.  They are cheap enough to make this practical.  I suggest this because I think it would be easier to turn down an existing brass piece to 1mm rather than make a new one with that disk shaped 6-hole back on there.    I'm not sure just how to chuck that thing up so it could be machined, however.   Hmmmmmm....

[dcutting]

So do you guys still need me to finish the shell for this unit? I'm available until the end of the month.

[randgust]

I've started mine but you'd probably get some way before I ever will.

If you go ahead - one request - design frame and steps separately from hood and cab.  Two pieces at least. That's way there is a lot more flexibility to use your part or adapt it to different chassis.  I'm definitely keeping my brass frame for weight.

[dcutting]

All done! Here's the model on shapeways: http://shpws.me/OOGD. I decided to let you guys supply your own sills, as it looks like that's what you've already done. I think that's probably more authentic considering that that's how the real TP56 locomotives are built.

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[Chris333]

Nice 3D model!

[up1950s]

I can see some manufacturer salivating with all the R&D done dangling like the proverbial carrot . Something that could rival the popularity of the old HO Hustler .

[randgust]

OK, David, mine is ordered, I'm first.   That's exactly what I wanted, and you did offer it in the black tough stuff - no excuses now!

[u18b]

David,

I was working on drawings for you and had some family emergencies.  Sorry.  I got held up.

It looks like you made one of the black ones.   It's WONDERFUL!

Is it too late to make a couple of changes to the shell?

There is a grill on the roof for the exhaust and engine heat to escape.

See on this good top photo of the green TP56.




I don't have any top shots of the black TP70, but in this shot you can just see the grill.




I LOVE what you've done.

If you could do a walkway too, and a fuel tank (maybe all one piece?), I think that would be great.

I just got home, and I'd be glad to mail you my chassis if you like.  That way you could make real world measurements.

[dcutting]

OK, David, mine is ordered, I'm first.   That's exactly what I wanted, and you did offer it in the black tough stuff - no excuses now!

Randy, now that I double check I missed two things. First, the grille on the top as Ron pointed out. Second is the louvers on the side. I will correct the model now if you want to reorder and cancel your current one. I can also design up a walkway really quick; the 3GS21B should offer me an almost ready to go part as that's also a rebuild.

It looks like you made the TP70 (the black one).   It's WONDERFUL!

What's the difference between the two?

Is it too late to make a couple of changes to the shell?

There is a grill on the roof for the exhaust and engine heat to escape.

See on this good top photo of the green TP56.

I don't have any top shots of the black TP70, but in this shot you can just see the grill.

I LOVE what you've done.

If you could do a walkway too, and a fuel tank (maybe all one piece?), I think that would be great.

I just got home, and I'd be glad to mail you my chassis if you like.  That way you could make real world measurements.

I'll take care of all of that now. I don't think I'll need the chassis as I already have the dimensions from my 3GS21B. There's too many chassis possibilities to nail it down to just one so you'll have to adapt my model to your situation.

David

[u18b]

Actually, I think there is no physical difference between the TP56 and TP70.  Sorry.

There is a horsepower difference.  TP70 is higher.
We theorised on this board that the black one may be bigger, but I'm not so sure.

However, this is a bit confusing..... but there are three of these little things.
There's the prototype, and the two production units.

The first one is the prototype.  It is black and numbered 5601.  It is the one with no visible fuel tank.   And that's the one that you have made.  I can tell by the back side of the cab.

Look at these two photos of the prototype.  The small windows at the lower portion of the back side of the cab are small.
Also there are two bars that look like maybe collision posts on either sides of the steps.   You modeled those well.
It also has number boards on the rear.
Your model looks like this:



Here it is being built- no number boards yet- but you can see the small windows and posts.




Now look at the back of the TP56.

The lower windows are larger- same size as ones above.  Also, the posts are gone.  And there are no number boards.




Anyway, what you have done is great.

What I don't know is if the prototype is smaller since it had no visible fuel tank up front.
Since the stanchions look the same, I assume the length is the same.

[u18b]

So just for clarity's sake.....

Here are all three on one place.


Here is the prototype:

Black,  #5601.   Notice the door configuration on the right side is also different from the other two.   It only has 2 doors- one forward and one aft.    While the TP56 and TP70 have 2 aft and one forward (3 doors)








And here is the green TP56
















And the TP70.  Black, number 0002