Preview of upcoming MTL True-Scale Coupler system

[Peter Amling]

This new coupler system comes at the perfect time for me, as I am beginning my major project to upgrade all my rolling stock to the proper ride height, correctly sized trucks with metal wheels, and body mounted couplers. It's going to be a big project as I have quite a variety of cars that all seem to need different modifications. I would definitely like to try these out and hope they can be my new coupler of choice since these look more prototypical than the 905s and are likely easier to install than LEZs that I am considering.

I have a couple of questions and suggestions:

1. From the original photos it looks like there are two coupler box sizes. It has been mentioned that one of them is the same or similar size as a 1015. What is the other box size?

2. Could someone post a comparison photo of the True Scale to a 1015, 1023, 1027 and Kato?  That would be much appreciated.

3. I have started to lower all my Fox Valley cars, and noticed that adding BLMA trucks causes the axles to scrape against the 1015 box. I'm evaluating what to do about that, whether I need a different coupler box or if there is a good way to trim height off the 1015. Are the new coupler boxes the same vertical height as 1015s or could they be made slightly thinner with an optional shim to avoid scraping against the axles?

4. The air hoses look great. Can they be mounted so that instead of going straight down they go towards the coupler? When real couplers are connected the air hoses meet underneath the couplers. This would give them a more prototypical look when coupled.

5. Finally, I second an earlier request to have a black box with a brown coupler. It would be great to use a more reddish brown than what's used for the current brown to more closely mimic the rust color of real couplers.

6. At some point, as the line expands, I would love a drop in replacement for Atlas, BLMA, Exactrail, Trainworx, etc. cars that come with body mounted couplers integrated into the car.

[ednadolski]

5. Finally, I second an earlier request to have a black box with a brown coupler. It would be great to use a more reddish brown than what's used for the current brown to more closely mimic the rust color of real couplers.

Rust is only reddish/orange when it is very fresh.  Most prototype couplers are actually pretty dark, like a burnt umber/burnt sienna.

Since a molded coupler is a solid & uniform color, it should probably be a pretty muted, dark brown -- darker than most folks would think at first.  Lighter and/or redder colors will jump out and look too stark.  It would be trivially easy to dust on some weathering powders to add depth and/or create a fresher-rust look if desired.


Ed

[hminky]

Never could understand the problem about the color of rust:



A picture from my tank band article.

http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/tank_bands/

Doesn't anyone look at real life.

Harold

[cjm413]

3. I have started to lower all my Fox Valley cars, and noticed that adding BLMA trucks causes the axles to scrape against the 1015 box. I'm evaluating what to do about that, whether I need a different coupler box or if there is a good way to trim height off the 1015. Are the new coupler boxes the same vertical height as 1015s or could they be made slightly thinner with an optional shim to avoid scraping against the axles?

Most, if not all of FVM's cars were designed for MTL trucks with offset kingpins.

BLMA trucks can be used to lower them, but they do have centered kingpins where the distance between the truck centers changes as a result.  Newer FVM cars do come with trucks that have offset kingpins, but I don't know if they're ever available as separate parts.  Either way, use a flathead screw for the 1015 box (or anything that is the same size as the 1015) rather than the MTL screws.

If you have any FVM FMC 5283's, the best option is to replace the stock FVM underframe with a ESM Hydra-Cushion underframe.

[peteski]

2. Could someone post a comparison photo of the True Scale to a 1015, 1023, 1027 and Kato?  That would be much appreciated.

Once I get my hands on them (they are still not available in retail) and once I find the time to do it.   I did somethgin similar for McHenry coupler (years ago on the A-board).

[wmcbride]

Once I get my hands on them (they are still not available in retail) and once I find the time to do it.   I did somethgin similar for McHenry coupler (years ago on the A-board).



Are those the McHenry HO couplers?    They are ginormous.

[cjm413]

Once I get my hands on them (they are still not available in retail) and once I find the time to do it.   I did somethgin similar for McHenry coupler (years ago on the A-board).



Are those the McHenry HO couplers?    They are ginormous.

McHefty

[thomasjmdavis]

Out of curiosity, what is the purpose of that tab that hangs off the knuckle of the Kato coupler?  Some sort of uncoupling device?

[nkalanaga]

I wonder if that's supposed to represent the parts, name unknown, on "Tight Lock" couplers, which were common on passenger cars before modern "shelf" couplers came out?  They would interlock, preventing the couplers from separating vertically in a derailment.  A true Tight Lock coupler would be a pain in N scale, as one couldn't lift the car to uncouple it...

[peteski]

Out of curiosity, what is the purpose of that tab that hangs off the knuckle of the Kato coupler?  Some sort of uncoupling device?

An attempt to make the coupler more reliable (staying coupled), but it fails do to so. 

Uncoupling is supposed to be done using the metal "hose" (like MTL couplers) but the centering spring is a bit too stiff and that doesn't work well.  Besides nobody seems to be installing those metal "hoses"anyway.

[wazzou]

Envisioning the coupling force needed for the new MT coupler... 

[JoeD]

Here is a naked coupler next to the standard mtl for your chart

Joe

An attempt to make the coupler more reliable (staying coupled), but it fails do to so. 

Uncoupling is supposed to be done using the metal "hose" (like MTL couplers) but the centering spring is a bit too stiff and that doesn't work well.  Besides nobody seems to be installing those metal "hoses"anyway.

[Maletrain]

"Envisioning the coupling force needed for the new MT coupler...  "

Wow, those 5 engines hit those 4 freight cars a lot harder than I try to model with my n scale equipment.

But, I model transition era, when there often were people in a caboose on the other end of those freigh cars.  I guess FREDs don't care, these days.

[jagged ben]

Well  whoever made that video seemed to think it was remarkable.  But it sure makes me feel better about some of the N scale switching jobs I've done!

[johnb]

So.....I converted a pair of FVM boxcars to scale couplers....
1. I just finished off a bottle of Cab Sav....
2. I ran out of scale couplers....
3. I had a pair of each of the standard and long shanks...
4. I think that the long shanks look better.