SDP40Fs now arriving

[sundowner]

Nkalanaga, this take MT 2004 like the F40PH and ACS64.

[jagged ben]

Nkalanaga, this take MT 2004 like the F40PH and ACS64.

2004s will be too high, as on other recent models.  The right conversion is 1015 shanks in a 2004 box.  (Yes, this costs more.)   On some models you can cut the coupler box larger and just use 1015s but it appears that this would be a bad idea on the SDP40F.

It's sort of infuriating that Kato and MT cannot seem to cooperate on easy conversions.  MT even made the 2004 for Kato locos and then Kato had to go change things again.

[Ike the BN Freak]

2004s will be too high, as on other recent models.  The right conversion is 1015 shanks in a 2004 box.  (Yes, this costs more.)   On some models you can cut the coupler box larger and just use 1015s but it appears that this would be a bad idea on the SDP40F.

It's sort of infuriating that Kato and MT cannot seem to cooperate on easy conversions.  MT even made the 2004 for Kato locos and then Kato had to go change things again.

You'd think the 1015 inners in a 2004 box would be a coupler set from MTL by now

[sundowner]

You'd think the 1015 inners in a 2004 box would be a coupler set from MTL by now

MTL sells them un-assemble its call the 2003.

http://micro-trainsline.com/00102015?filter_name=2003

[nkalanaga]

Thank you, and I might need that 2003 someday, but my set with one 2015 will work fine.  I tested it on a train with almost every coupler and mounting I have, and one end or the other worked fine on every car.  Since the coupling distance is almost the same either way, there's no point changing, and the Kato couplers do look better.

As for taking it apart, even with the instructions, the first unit took about ten minutes.  The second took under a minute.  I used a narrow chisel blade in my Xacto knife, and it went very quickly, as long as I got the blade between the window glass and the frame, rather than between the glass and the shell.  Slide it in, stick a strip of styrene in next to the blade, do the next corner, and so on.

Putting it back together was a little tedious, but the hardest part was the cab windows.  They don't just pop in, and they don't slide in, either side first or windshield first.  The only way I could get them in was to stick the windshield glass THROUGH the opening, so it stuck out over the hood, then rotate the glass until the side windows seated.  At that point, the windshield was also in place, and it was done.  Again, the first unit was trial and error, the second went back together very easily.

[peteski]

Why did you have to remove the cab windows?  In most Kato locos those are fairly permanently installed and do not pop out during disassembly.

[nkalanaga]

So that I could Dullcote the body after renumbering it.  If I hadn't renumbered it, I wouldn't have taken it apart at all.  The model numbers were assigned to the ATSF in Barstow, while I needed a pair for the BN trains, assigned to Havre.

The couplers can be changed, either by using the right one, or by screwing on a 1015, without taking anything apart except the coupler retaining clip.

Yes, I noticed that there was no danger of the windows falling out.  Getting them out was the problem.

[peteski]

Need some help please on exactly how to remove the shell so I can install a decoder. No exploded diagram on Kato's site, and not quite sure where the 4 tabs are that hold the shell on.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Bart

In addition to the instructions already posted here, TCS has a nice step-by step decoder install pictorial (which includes disassemble).
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/N_Scale/Kato/EMD SDP40F/EMD_SDP40F_K7D4.php

Looks like this model only has 2 (not 4) retaining tabs.  Kato often does that in their locos.  The E8 and P42 also only have 2 tabs.

[sundowner]

Looks like this model only has 2 (not 4) retaining tabs.  Kato often does that in their locos.  The E8 and P42 also only have 2 tabs.

It has four tabs, two on each side.
TCS took off more than needed be taken off the shell, The light assembly does not need to be remove from the shell to install the decoder, kind like other Kato units.
Also you need to insulate the outside of the motor tabs because they will make contact with the frame.

[sundowner]

So that I could Dullcote the body after renumbering it.  If I hadn't renumbered it, I wouldn't have taken it apart at all.  The model numbers were assigned to the ATSF in Barstow, while I needed a pair for the BN trains, assigned to Havre.

The couplers can be changed, either by using the right one, or by screwing on a 1015, without taking anything apart except the coupler retaining clip.

Yes, I noticed that there was no danger of the windows falling out.  Getting them out was the problem.

I went with the 1015 also, after ready what other had wrote here, there is plenty of space for 1015 and the 1015 coupler box do fill the gaping hole in the pilot.

[peteski]

It has four tabs, two on each side.

You're right - I was looking at the picture on a small screen and didn't notice the rear latch.

[nscaler711]

Guys, it only has three tabs... That's why mine is jacked up on three guitar picks...


Back left corner is the rear window glass insert, see how it has a small cut out on just one side?

[milw156]

can anyone comment on what type of airhorn these units came with, they seem to be 4 chime horns. have a Lok sound installed and was not sure which of the choices is correct, if any.
Rick

[Wutter]

For the first 40 delivered: Leslie SL-4T.



http://atsf.railfan.net/airhorns/sl4t.html

The later models had the horns split into two manifolds. From the link: "The remaining 110 SDP40F's had the same bells spread over two 2-chime manifolds (essentially an S-2G and an S-2H)"

[Mark5]

I never thought I'd get nostalgic for these beasts ... now I'm waiting for Kato to release the later units (flat nose like #644 above).

Mark