SDP40Fs now arriving

[Bob Bufkin]

Way beyond my time period but considering how many times they were on the head end on my trips Between Charleston,SC and Alexandria,VA I may have to get at least one.  Now if they just come out with the proper cars used on the Florida trains.

[milw156]

I got over my "but the road numbers are consecutive" phobia and ordered the other phase I road number from another online dealer.

I take this opportunity to invoke Ed's Law: http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/amtk/amtk526cwa.jpg
                                                                    https://www.flickr.com/photos/ck4049/6099724509/in/album-72157627405179426/

Darn close:  https://www.flickr.com/photos/ck4049/6097262246/in/album-72157627405179426/
                    https://www.flickr.com/photos/ck4049/6102599909/in/album-72157627405179426/

[nkalanaga]

I did kitbash a pair, years ago, from Atlas SD50s chassis, cheap Life-Like F40s, a lot of styrene, some paper, and graphic "striping tape".  Not too bad, but I have a pair of Katos coming.  I figured, back then, that if I ever wanted one, I'd better build it myself. 

At the time the only 70s cowl units I had were four W&R brass F45s, on Kato SD40 chassis, because the originals wouldn't stay on the track.  Ran nice, on straight track, but wouldn't take any curves.  Trucks swiveled fine, never did find the problem.  But the repowered units ran perfectly with my Kato SD40s & 45s.

[squirrelhunter]

Thanks Robbman!

I'll say that I think I have seen some photos showing the 500-539 series units in consecutive of closely numbered (like just 1 or 2 numbers apart) pairs. So far I've seen photos showing this group assigned to the Chief/Super Chief/Southwest Limited, Texas Chief/Lone Star, and the Sunset Limited. I'd guess the San Diegans got these as well, since I think they were based out of LA for maintenance.

Here is a shot with 535 and 533-
http://www.railpixs.com/amt2/AMT530_SunsetLtd_HoustonTx_May78.jpg

The higher 500's and 600's with the flat noses showed up just about everywhere else it seems.

[basementcalling]

How long did they run on ATSF?

[jagged ben]

How long did they run on ATSF?

1984-2002 (if you include BNSF, too).

[nkalanaga]

squirrelhunter:  Odd.  I have a picture, in the 1978/1979 Amtrak Annual, of the same 535/533 combination on the Empire Builder.  Same paint, so about the same time, but certainly not the same train or location.  Did they assign units in pairs, and keep the pairs together regardless of what train they were on?

[sundowner]

The shell is a small pain to take off front of the mech, there are 4 small tabs that hold the shell on the mech similar to the F40PH. The front tab hold the window plastic and the back just the shell. You need to wedge two small screw drivers or exacto blades under the window plastic inside  the front of the shell to take it off, the back just need a little spreading. If you are installing DCC, put some kraptom tape on the outside of the motor tabs since there is very little wiggle room between the side of the frame and the tabs.

[jagged ben]

Quite happy with how heavy it is.   At first I thought it might actually be heavier than the Athearn FP45, but it's similar.  At any rate, glad Kato isn't using a lighter alloy.   (Can't wait for the freight version.)

[Bart1701]

Need some help please on exactly how to remove the shell so I can install a decoder. No exploded diagram on Kato's site, and not quite sure where the 4 tabs are that hold the shell on.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Bart

[bman]

Kato USA Tech Corner N SDP40F First Look     right around 2:55 he starts describing the shell removal procedure. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIX4Afw5ljE&list=UUD4u4KFbkn_IJ3Rds7a9XSQ

Edit:  well crud......  watched it again(it's been a while since I have) and all it shows is the guy moving the rear handrails out of the way.  The next thing you see in the video is a bit of unseen magic and  the chassis sans shell.  So it wasn't that helpful after all.   My apologies.  I thought it more helpful than it really was. 

[Bart1701]

UPDATE - I figured it out.

What an adventure!

Just kept poking toothpicks and other stuff in various places and eventually found the secret "sweet spots". Wasn't sure whether the black plastic piece that goes around the bottom on the shell was supposed to come off ( it's not....but you do need to release one end of one of the rear handrails before removing the shell).  Once I guessed that the black piece stays with the frame, I then knew that the toothpicks and other stuff had to be inserted between the edge of the shell and the black plastic piece.

Removing the shell is definitely not for the faint of heart...

But it is a great locomotive 

Thanks,
Bart

[nscaler711]

No video... but...




use guitar pick/ cellphone disassembly picks to get beneath the window glazing on both sides of the cab, and one pick at the rear of the engineers side...

I do not suggest using tooth picks... use something flat and as soft as the plastic shell..

I'm getting ready to do the full teardown write up tonight...

[sundowner]

Need some help please on exactly how to remove the shell so I can install a decoder. No exploded diagram on Kato's site, and not quite sure where the 4 tabs are that hold the shell on.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Bart

The answer was on reply 37

[nkalanaga]

Thank you, Sundowner and NScaler711.  I got my pair today, and they run like a Kato (of course...).  They'll have to be renumbered, as I need 530-539 for the EB/NCH, so the shell will have to come off.

My one disappointment was the coupling distance.  I know, they have to be able to take sharper curves than mine, and I expected to change the couplers.  But, 1015s couple at the same distance as the Kato couplers, and don't fit well, at least on mine.  Changing them is easy.  Pull the clips out, remove the Kato coupler and spring, insert the 1015, replace the clip.  But the current 1015 is just a little too thick, and the clip won't seat fully.  First good tug and the coupler falls off.  Tapping the hole in the frame and screwing the 1015 on worked fine, and it was at the right height.

The Kato couplers didn't seem to mate well with my ancient 1025s, which are so old they still say "Kadee", but worked and looked fine otherwise, so I left the one 1015 on the front of that unit, and the other three Katos as-is.  That way I can couple the pair to any passenger car I have, as my cars have a variety of couplers and mounts.