Faux-Rusted But Conductive?

[Denver Road Doug]

So I was using the following photo as a test to assist with a Dropbox/hotlinking issue, and it got me to thinking about a question I've had for awhile and kept forgetting to ask...
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In simplistic terms, Is there any way make track look like this and still conduct electricity? (BUT WAIT, that's not really my question, just part of it)

For purposes here, we're really just talking about the tops of the rails...we won't make assumptions that any method would increase or decrease ones ability to make the rest of the track look realistic.  I guess I'll also throw out that *actually rusting the track* is also not what I would consider a valid option.

I know ME blackens their track and I'm assuming in a similar method to my bottle of BlackenIt.  But it seems that is dependent at least someone on the blackening wearing off a bit...and it is more of a black color than the brown/rust seen here.   Since I don't have any other option that I'm aware of, this would be my plan barring some other process.

So, any other methods?
My thoughts...
-Is there a BrownIt?
-Use NeoLube, and mix in Brown India Ink?
-Some type of conductive paint/stain?

Anyway, I won't die or quit the hobby if it can't be done.  Just curious.

Oh, to my question...Does anyone have CONFIRMED, LEGIT, WORKING examples of someone (you?) creating track that looks like this and is functional on a model railroad?

[Denver Road Doug]

Also, yes I get it that if a train ran regularly on this track it would polish the tops of the rails.

What I'm going for is basically the look that the trackage is not in use, but still be able to spot cars and operate on it in spite of that.

[jimmo]

Looks like a great excuse to finally build that battery-powered switcher.

[Lemosteam]

Backish-Brown sharpie?

[peteski]

Doug,
The weathering layer would have to be highly conductive in order to allow a locomotive to run over it.  I have never seen anything like that.  Neolube would work, but it would not look rusty - just like smooth dark metal.

But if cars will be spotted on that spur (in real life or on a layout), the top of the rail would be free of rust anyways.  If you really want to keep that weathered and rusted look, you could spot the car using a loco and few idler cars in between them (so the loco remains on the clean track before the spur.  But if you do that enough times, the weathering will naturally wear off the top of the rail anyway. 

[nsbob]

Doug I know you mentioned BlackenIt.  I have some BlackenIt but I have not used it.  A couple of years ago I needed to re-blue some gun parts for a project.  I used Birchwood Casey Gun Blue.   I found when I applied the first coat, it left a dull finish that was more dark brown than dark blue.   I also discovered there is a product called Birchwood Casey Plum Brown Barrel Finish to finish antique guns.  I don't have any of the Plum Brown Barrel Finish, but I have some Gun Blue.  I will try to find the time to test it on a piece of Atlas track and see the results of running a locomotive on it.  Give me a few days and I will give it a try.

[tom mann]

One of the newer videos on MRVP (Model Railroader Video Plus) showed David Popp modeling a industrial spur. He mentioned that Cody Grivno painted the sides of the rail, and then used NeoLube on the top.  it sounded like a great idea to me.

[peteski]

If you want to try the chemical colorants, and if DKS was still participating here, he would recommend https://www.jaxchemical.com/ . He introduced me to Jax. Their stuff is so much better than the stuff available at the hobby shops.  They also have much wider range of chemical available.

[Denver Road Doug]

The weathering layer would have to be highly conductive in order to allow a locomotive to run over it.

Wow, is that how the electricity thingy works?   Fascinating.   

Some great ideas so far guys, thanks!   Especially looking forward to the gun blue outcome.

[peteski]

Wow, is that how the electricity thingy works?   Fascinating.   

Some great ideas so far guys, thanks!   Especially looking forward to the gun blue outcome.

LOL!  But he way I see it, gun blue (even if it is conductive enough) will look nothing like rusty rails. It will look more like Russia Iron coating on steam locos.    Some of the Jax patinas are brownish. So is the Micro Engineering rail weathering solution. Even Neolube would probably be closer to the effect you are looking for than gun blue.  Neolube has a dull grayish look.  The other thing is that gun blue is designed to react with steel. Nickel silver is not steel - it is a type of brass. But I guess we'll have to wait and see the results.

[tom mann]

So would this work on Unitrack?

https://www.jaxchemical.com/jaxshop/shopexd.asp?id=123&bc=no

Because it would be better than painting, I think.

[Chris333]

I used a JAX thing call brown black. But the metal needs to be very very clean to coat evenly.

[peteski]

Same goes for any chemical blackeners - any oil, grease, greasy dirt, or even greasy fingerprints will act as a barrier for the blackener.  If the chemical cant come in  direct contact with metal, it will not work.

@tom mann The item you found is for steel and iron - you need to look for the chemicals designed for brass, bronze or even copper.  Nickel silver is a brass alloy.  Now if you wanted to use it on the old Arnold Rapido steel track, it should work fine. 

[Denver Road Doug]

LOL!  But he way I see it, gun blue (even if it is conductive enough) will look nothing like rusty rails. It will look more like Russia Iron coating on steam locos.    Some of the Jax patinas are brownish. So is the Micro Engineering rail weathering solution. Even Neolube would probably be closer to the effect you are looking for than gun blue.  Neolube has a dull grayish look.  The other thing is that gun blue is designed to react with steel. Nickel silver is not steel - it is a type of brass. But I guess we'll have to wait and see the results.

Perhaps you didn't read the reply, but the gun blue was a test for a similar "gun brown" (plum brown") product that is available.  Bob was going to test the gun blue for conductivity and if that works then I will investigate purchasing the brown and testing it.

I find it interesting the comment that the ME product is more brown....now that I think of it it does seem like the pre-weathered flex I bought was less of the stark black color I recall from Blacken-It and more brown-ish.   But both of those have been some years back so I would need to check those out further.    Doesn't hurt to have more than one way to do something as one might look better under certain lighting, conduct better, etc.

To elaborate a little, I've had two instances over the years that I've really wanted to be able to pull this off.   One was a scenario where I wanted to have a track to staging look as though it was abandoned in normal use, but have the ability to pull trains out of staging when no one was looking.  The second is the above photo...I'm modeling that industrial park and it's one where there are miles of "potential", ie rails serving industries but no active loadouts.   On occassion, one will either change owners and start receiving a boxcar a month or something like that.   So I still want to portray "urban apathy" but in reality spot some cars on two industries along this line as part of an ops session.   Another (better) way to look at it is, I'm modeling the FIRST DAY that new industry receives that first boxcar.

Again, if I have to have a tiny strip of shiny rail, I'll survive.  Just eliciting some discussion on the topic.

[peteski]

Whatever solution the gun stuff is (blor or borwn), it is designed for steel (not nickel silver). I guess we'll just have to wait and see the results.
Micro Engineering rail weathering solution does produce a rusty rail color and is designed for nickel silver.  But I'm pretty sure it does not conduct electricity.