What's your favourite clear coat?

[craigolio1]

I have:

Micro Scale clear Satin, Gloss and Flat

Testors Gloss and Flat in a rattle can

Badger Model Flex Flat

Floquil Gloss and Flat

The only ones I have used are the Testors, mostly out of fear in that I used them once and they didn't liquefy my paints and graphics so I used them again,  and I was able to shoot them without any thinning after decanting from the cans.

Well, I've run out of Testors and don't feel like buying more when I have other clears to try.

Would you mind weighing in with your experiences using the others including the type of paint you covered, the types of decals used, and the thinning required to achieve the desired finish.

Currently I'm sealing locos painted with Trucolor paints (Microscale and Highball decals) and desire a flat finish on some and a semi-gloss finish on others.  Soon I will be sealing models painted with Trueline Trains paints (Microscale decals), and Cn Sig Lines Scalecoat I (Highball and Microscale decals) and will be looking for flat and semi-gloss finishes there as well.

My first real question is should I be sealing laquer based paints with something like the Floquil, using the others on Acrylics, or are they interchangeable?

Thanks very much for your input.

Craig

[BobRunty]

Well Craig, I'm sure others will chime in, but my all time go to flat finish is Testors dullcote. I've used it over everything, old school Floquil, Polyscale, Tru-color, Scalecoat, Modelflex, etc. , and about every brand of decal out there. Never had a problem and in my opinion it's the "deadest" flat finish out there. That being said I've used the Microscale Flat a few times and never had a problem with it either, and it being acrylic should be safe over most everything. Also used the Floquil flat and gloss over solvent paints,
For a semi-gloss, the only thing I've used is a mix of Testors Dullcote and Glosscote to get the level of gloss I've wanted.
With all that, my usual routine is Future Floor Finish after initial paint before decaling, even on glossy finishes like Tru-color. I decal then seal with another coat of Finish, before Dullcoting and then weathering. I do all that because in my eyes, the decals sort of disappear into the Finish without hardly any film showing. YMMV but it's what I do.
I did a CB&Q waycar in HO about 10 years ago and left the Future Finish as is since I wanted it to represent a car right out of the paint shop. Still looks as good today as when I initially did it. I'll try and get a photo and post.

Bob

[craigolio1]

Future. Interesting. I have heard of this before. Is there a specific one?

Do you thin it somehow or shoot it straight up?

If you need to, what did you thin the Microscale with?


Craig

[thomasjmdavis]

Craig,

I've been using Future for 10 or more years with pretty good results.  I heard, years ago, that at least one small model company was buying it at the hardware store and repackaging it in 1 oz bottles as their "clear gloss."  Don't know if that is true or urban legend.  But it is worth experimenting with, since a 27 oz bottle is under $10 (vs $3/oz from a model paint company), and if you don't like the finish on your models, you can use it on the kitchen or bathroom floor.

Nowadays, it is marketed as a "Pledge" product for vinyl floors.  It has a "Future" logo in the middle of the label ("with Future shine").  The grocery store did not have it, but I found it at the local Ace Hardware.  I spray it right out of the bottle with a Paasche #3 or #5.  You do have to be careful, as it will build up if sprayed on too thick.  But that said, it seems as durable as Krylon, you can decal over it (I have used it to gloss a flat painted surface for decals) and you can spray acrylic clear flats over it to dull it down if you wish.  You will need to do a thorough cleaning of the airbrush after- as it dries fast and clogs things up.

[BobRunty]

I know they changed the name a few times, the bottle I have is Future Floor finish, I believe it might be called Restore Floor Finish or something like that now. It comes in a clear bottle. I've used the same bottle for 10 years now and still have at least half left. It's already thin, I just load my airbrush and spray light coats. Be careful it will run pretty easy, but if you don't like it, a quick spray and cleanup with Windex will take it right off, especially if you do it right away, and won't harm the underlying paint. I believe it's the ammonia in the Windex that takes it off. But it will take off the decals if you have the Future under them. To be safe, I'd practice spraying on something before I would do a special model.
As far as the Microscale stuff, its been awhile, but I believe I thinned it with windshield washer solvent. Look in the Fading Fast post by Gary Hinshaw for a lot of tips on spraying it.
Here's that CB&Q Waycar that was left in Future Finish .

Bob

[craigolio1]

Wow!  Excellent.

Thanks guys.

[garethashenden]

I like Winsor & Newton matt varnish. It's dead flat and in a bigger can than dullcote. They also sell it in jars, which could presumably be thinned and sprayed, but I haven't tried it.

[peteski]

Future. Interesting. I have heard of this before. Is there a specific one?

Any time Future (which is no longer called that) is brought up, I always refer people to the ultimate resource: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

Personally I'm not a fan of this product (but I have and have used it few times).  I also don't have a single favorite clear coat (because I build not only railroad models). But I do use Testors Gloss- and Dull-cote and even custom mixes of them for satin finishes.

[wazzou]

I like the Gloss and Lusterless Flat finishes from Testors' Model Masters line. 
They have finer nozzles that better atomizes the spray so it applies nicely.

[Santa Fe Guy]

Craig.
As I now only use acrylic paints (for health and safety reasons) most of the brands do not need to have a gloss coat to apply decals. I have used Testors Dullcote for about 20+ years to seal the decals and between coats of oil paint when used as weathering washes and swear by it. A warm ambient temp is important when spraying it also. I sometimes do my Dullcote spraying outside if there is no wind and the weather is warm.
I have heard that Tamiya dull spray cans can upset decals so will not touch it just in case.
Have fun.
Rod.

[peteski]

Craig.
As I now only use acrylic paints (for health and safety reasons) most of the brands do not need to have a gloss coat to apply decals.

So you now leave the decal on the surface of the model unprotected?

[Scottl]

I find Future is too thin and runs when I shoot it.  I just don't like it for that application.  It is a great gloss medium for scenery though.

[Bendtracker1]

I like the Gloss and Lusterless Flat finishes from Testors' Model Masters line. 
They have finer nozzles that better atomizes the spray so it applies nicely.

Another vote for these.
I use mine through an airbrush.

[peteski]

I like the Gloss and Lusterless Flat finishes from Testors' Model Masters line. 
They have finer nozzles that better atomizes the spray so it applies nicely.

Aren't those the same as Dullcote and Glosscote, only in a different can with different nozzle?

[Santa Fe Guy]

So you now leave the decal on the surface of the model unprotected?

Didn't you read all the post.
Rod.