Weekend Update 10/25/15

[superchief]

Wolf, love the tigers! I see you have converted your S-4 to micro trains, what conversion/ coupler did you use. Thanks, Superchief

[Philip H]

@SP-Wolf,
That rates as one of my top 5 favorite schemes. Well done. Now tell us - what paint and decals did you use?

[nscaleSPF2]

Completed PRR N class steam locomotive.



More details here:

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=36778.0

[SP-Wolf]

Wolf, love the tigers! I see you have converted your S-4 to micro trains, what conversion/ coupler did you use. Thanks, Superchief

Howdy,

Thanks!!

I used 1015's. Went in with very little trouble.

Wolf

[SP-Wolf]

@SP-Wolf,
That rates as one of my top 5 favorite schemes. Well done. Now tell us - what paint and decals did you use?

Howdy Philip,

Thank you, very much. I can't take credit for the paint and lettering on these, as they are factory. On the NW-2's - I just added builders plates. On the S-4's - I changed the road numbers. Using Micro Scale decals. However, when I do paint and decal - I still use Floquil engine black and of course - Micro Scale decals.

Thanks again,
Wolf

[jmlaboda]

Now that's a beautiful engine!!!

[ryan_wilkerson]

Over the last 6 weeks, I've been buying the materials to build my own turnouts. I just got the last couple pieces from MBK this week. I'm new to this so I know I'll be learning from mistakes. I took a look at the FastTracks website and saw the downloadable templates that can be printed out.  Instead of starting with something that has moving parts, I thought I might have more success with a crossing. I printed out the 45 degree version and just went for it. It's not completely done but a pair of BLMA trucks roll through it.
How do you track layers get clean seams when cutting and soldering the rails? I know there is too much solder on my track and I need to do a better job at cutting the PC board ties to make sure it's electrically isolated. Here's the progress of last night.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Although I have not updated the Boston Line thread in a while, work continues. The library is starting to flesh out:

(Prototype research is on the left, modeling on the right)

[nkalanaga]

For the frogs, it depends on the era and prototype, but many modern frogs could use MORE solder than you have.  Most of those laid in the last 50+ years are castings, not built-up from rail, so the interior is filled with metal.

For the rail-tie joints, on my one crossing, paste flux, very little solder, and a lot of file work!  The same techniques as laying track and turnouts, actually, and yours doesn't look bad for a first piece.  Soldering does take practice, and the next will look a lot better.

If you have plenty of tie stock, you might want to practice soldering rail to ties without worrying about the gauge.  Just solder as many rails as you can, side by side, on a few inches of ties, to get the hang of it.  Or, if that seems wasteful, lay some industrial spurs, where any really bad joints can be literally buried in scenery.

[Chris333]

I put flux paste on the ties and put the rail on top of that. To solder I touch the iron tip to the end of the solder and then touch it to the tie. Let it heat for a few seconds till it creeps under the rail and out the other side.

I never stick the solder into the turnout. I get the solder on the iron first.

And FWIW I've built a bunch of track, but never a crossing yet.

[basementcalling]

@basementcalling ,  N Scale items are all still showing as in stock, so plenty left there.  Cars were announced on their facebook page on Oct 15th, new image logo HO car sold out in 4 days.  As of today, only 1 number is available in HO for other scheme released.  All others sold out.

Meant out, as in out and available for sale, not out of stock. Athearn just announced acid tank cars. I got excited. Then I saw the release date is Nov 2016. Not so excited anymore.

[engineshop]

Over the last 6 weeks, I've been buying the materials to build my own turnouts. I just got the last couple pieces from MBK this week. I'm new to this so I know I'll be learning from mistakes. I took a look at the FastTracks website and saw the downloadable templates that can be printed out.  Instead of starting with something that has moving parts, I thought I might have more success with a crossing. I printed out the 45 degree version and just went for it. It's not completely done but a pair of BLMA trucks roll through it.
How do you track layers get clean seams when cutting and soldering the rails? I know there is too much solder on my track and I need to do a better job at cutting the PC board ties to make sure it's electrically isolated. Here's the progress of last night.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

I have been using the FastTracks fixtures for a while. At the beginning I used too much solder as well but got it right after about the third one. Make sure you use the best flux possible, which will cut down on the solder amount. With the right amount of solder, the isolation is no problem either.

[mmagliaro]

Kind of what Chris333 said (about the soldering)... I have done some repair work on soldered ties,
although I've never built my own turnout, but I've done a lot of careful soldering where I don't want so much solder,
don't want it to show, but still want a strong joint.  The key is flux, man.. FLUX, and a clean iron.
I put a dot of flux into the joint with the tip of a toothpick, get as tiny a drop of solder as I can
hanging on the point of the iron, and then touch it in there.  Usually, it will flow right off the iron, "follow the flux"
into the joint, and be very clean. 

Very thin solder and a very fine pointed iron really help.  I am using .015" diameter solder and a 1/64" conical
point tip (like this: http://www.amazon.com/Long-Conical-Tip-1-64/dp/B000ILEUCK)

[Lemosteam]

I've been"generating"...

[Santa Fe Guy]

Much the same as the other guys, however make sure you clean the PCB before you start soldering. Give the PCB a light rub with some 1200 emery paper so it is shinny. Wipe under the flange of the rail too sometimes there is factory gunk on it that will stop good soldering. My preference is to use liquid flux, it allows the rail and PCB to get as much as is available. Clean and even more cleaning is the answer to a good solder joint, on the soldering iron tip also.