PRR R50B Reefer kits: Third run is coming, end of October, 2015!

[thbguy]

Hello all,

I am not sure why the painting table images got messed up, but I have fixed them. Brian, the colors you are asking about are for the interior of the car; an example of "over researching" on my part!

The last 14 kits have been relisted on eBay now if anyone missed out.

Best regards,
Michael (thbguy))

[Rasputen]

Thanks Michael - excellent work as always!

[thbguy]

Hello everyone,

There is 36 hours left on the sale and 8 kits are left.
Don't miss out on these if you want one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191738165041

And thank you very much to everyone who has purchased an R50B kit.

Kind regards,
Michael

[CrazyLynx]

Any suggestion on which body mounted couplers to use for that kit?

[altohorn25]

Any suggestion on which body mounted couplers to use for that kit?

I put MT z scale 905's on it (that's what I have on all my MT heavyweights as well).  Gives a much better scale appearance.  MT 1015's would work as well.

Nate

[altohorn25]

Finished the first kit I ordered over this past weekend (sorry, no way to post photos on rail wire).  Really toying with the idea of buying another.

Those of you hesitating out there; buy this kit!  Excellent casting and fit of all pieces.  A++

Nate

[altohorn25]

Nevermind on previous comment - figured out how to post photos.  The green is a bit brighter than I would have liked, but I didn't have a paler green in my paint stock.  It will look fine once I hit it with a dark wash and then weather the car.  Used stirrups off a MT reefer to complete the kit as well as FVM wheels and MT 905 couplers.

Nate

[chicken45]

Ah ha! It all makes sense now. I didn't recognize your name over on that Facebook N scale custom group.

Paint the trucks black and you should be good to go.

[altohorn25]

Easy fix; no problem.  Thanks.

Nate

[ksmiley]

Assembled and weathered. Thanks ThbGuy and other who posted advice and lettering ideas.

[OldEastRR]

One thing about using metal wheels and axles with metal truck frames: isn't there a short between both sides of the truck through the metal needle-point axle ends? Even with using insulated wheel sets this is going to happen, right?

[GaryHinshaw]

Strictly speaking, the only short you need to worry about is one that connects the two rails of opposite polarity.  As long as a metal truck frame (with or without a metal axle) does not touch both rails at the same time, it will be fine. 

If you also have metal wheels, then at least one of them must have an insulated bushing.  The concern is when an insulated metal wheel comes into contact with another piece of metal, like the truck frame, or a metal under-frame: then a short across the rails becomes more likely.  With metal trucks, you have to be a bit more careful that this does not happen.

[djconway]

One thing about using metal wheels and axles with metal truck frames: isn't there a short between both sides of the truck through the metal needle-point axle ends? Even with using insulated wheel sets this is going to happen, right?

Not necessarily -- on metal wheelsets one wheel will have a plastic bushing providing insulation.  As long as the bushing is on the same side no short.

[arbomambo]

Not necessarily -- on metal wheelsets one wheel will have a plastic bushing providing insulation.  As long as the bushing is on the same side no short.

Maybe I'm not seeing this correctly, but what does it matter which 'side' the bushing is on, as long as the wheelsets are insulated?...
all the FVM regular wheelsets are insulated, so does it really matter which way I orient the wheelset in a cast metal sideframe?...

Bruce

[thomasjmdavis]

I think what they are getting at is that with a metal truck (as on the R50b model), you need the insulated wheels on the same side (if only one end of the axle is insulated).  Given that the R50b model also has a metal underframe, you would need all the insulated wheels on the same side. 

Really nice casting on those truck frames, BTW.