PRR N2 Steam Locomotive Build

[strummer]

I think that, overall, it looks pretty d*mn good.

 Even though "we" (not me, you guys ) strive to be as accurate as possible, let's not forget the key here is "as possible".

 After all, this is N scale we're talking about, and given the (somewhat) limited availability of options as far as chassis and boilers, etc. goes, what we have here is a reasonable rendition that will look just fine working on a layout.

N is not, nor ever will be, HO after all, where just about anything is "do-able" in steam.

Not trying to be difficult, just my 2 cents worth. Hoping not to ruffle any feathers....

Mark in Oregon

[Dave V]

FYSA, during the 40s, photos show some N2s on the Pittsburgh Division, so there's that...

[peteski]

I think that, overall, it looks pretty d*mn good.

 Even though "we" (not me, you guys ) strive to be as accurate as possible, let's not forget the key here is "as possible".

That is why I suggested trying to make lemonade with those lemons (lowering the shell or boiler on the chassis).  I think that would improve the realism of this inaccurate model.  I'm not trying to diss the model - like you said, it is the best possible combo using the parts available.

[glakedylan]

if you look at the original loco in the OP of this thread
and compare it to the bashed upgrade
both shells seem to be sitting at the same height

thus, I do not quite understand the argument that has proceeded

fwiw

sincerely--
Gary

[mmagliaro]

Here's one way I think the boiler height gives itself away.

If you look at the prototype photo posted by the OP, and follow the walkway along the side of the engine,
notice that it starts at about the same relative position on the cab as the model with the upgrade/urethane shell.

At the end, the prototype walkway takes a step down and lands almost slap on top of the cylinders.

Now, back to the model  shell, the walkway jogs up and down (and that's already a compromise we have discussed).
But ignore that and follow the line from the cab all the way to the cylinders, and you can
see that even with the jog downward in the walkway at the front end, it still sits quite a bit above the cylinders.

It should be more like the red line in the photo below:



EDIT 2:
Another place to look is at the lower edge of the firebox.  Notice how low it sits relative to the
trailing truck and the rear driver on the prototype photo as compared to the model.

nscaleSPF2:
I really hope you take all this discussion and helpful (I hope) critique in the sprit in which it is intended.
I am looking at this from a perspective of thinking about what relatively minor and achievable things
you could do to make this a better model, given that shell and that mechanism.  It seems to me
that altering the walkways to match the N2, and lowering the shell a little might take some work, but
they are not horrible tasks that involve messing with the mechanism or putting the engine at risk.
So to me, it seems like it would be worth it to make those changes because I think they would
go a long way toward making this look like a proper N2.

[chessie system fan]

If we're talking proportions, something else to think about is the cab and the tender.  If the cab roof overhang is too low that would look just as bad as a high boiler, to my eye.

[carlso]

Jim,

As another person who did a Superturbine / Bachmann bash project to make an SP AC-9, I understand what you are feeling about now. Don't let it get to you.

One thing that I see on the engineer's side and Max has mentioned this, the walkway makes the jog up over two tanks, air I assume, and then down. The long tank appears to be way too high on the boiler as well as the smaller tank. I know it would create a lot of work to remove your excellent piping job but I think that if you did and lowered the two tanks so that you could put the walkway straight across the tanks and then jog down to the steam chests. That would lower the boiler profile enough to look better. The fireman's side has so much detail that I don't think there is much visible space.

I am not a Pennsy person, was that a railroad, (dodge the bombs) but the picture you posted only shows one air tank on the fireman's side. Is the short tank actually a resistor for the head light ? ?

As Chessie suggested, you may want to set the  tender behind to see how cab looks with it.

Just my 2 cents worth. As always, the main thing is to have fun and remember rule #1, it's my railroad.

Carl

[victor miranda]

ah building n-scale steam engines is such an art.

very little is acurate...

driver tread and flange are the cause of almost all the problems.

Most models are longer than accurate ...
add about 5 inches for each driver ( for a 2-8-2 that is about 40 inches )
and make the loco a little bigger to help the proportions.

there are other ways.

shrink the driver tread to get the correct wheelbase despite the oversize flanges
and lower the boiler a bit to help the proportions.

when it comes to making a model, use every option available to get it to look reasonable.
steam engines are a tough group because the drivers (and flanges) are such a big part
of the overall appearance.

once painted, it will look good.
I am pulling for you.
( I am sure everyone else is as well.)

victor

[mmagliaro]

Victor makes an important point with his latest remark.
Yes indeed we ARE all pulling for you.   Your modeling is excellent.  Look at those cooling lines.

The only reason people are jumping in with so many suggestions is that we think you
will make a great model.  Otherwise, I doubt so many people would bother.
So please, PLEASE don't take this discussion as negative.   Consider our remarks, and then
toss them in the incerator if you wish.  We just want to help you make the best model that you can.

[peteski]

Victor makes an important point with his latest remark.
Yes indeed we ARE all pulling for you.   Your modeling is excellent.  Look at those cooling lines.

The only reason people are jumping in with so many suggestions is that we think you
will make a great model.  Otherwise, I doubt so many people would bother.
So please, PLEASE don't take this discussion as negative.   Consider our remarks, and then
toss them in the incerator if you wish.  We just want to help you make the best model that you can.

Yeah, what Max said - exactly!

[nscaleSPF2]

Enough, already.  You guys are over-thinking this.  And you are certainly not hurting my feelings.

The engine is going to get painted as-is, and then we will take another reading.  Unlike the real world, anything that gets done here can be undone.  After all, it's only a toy train.   

[nscaleSPF2]

Here she is, just back from paint.  These photos show some additional detail that was not visible previously.









I was afraid that this would happen.  Painting over the white walls actually makes the drivers appear smaller.  I was briefly tempted to stop this project (again), but instead I plan to forge ahead.  In hindsight, a better approach would have been to start with a Kato Mikado and add a 5th set of drivers.  Oh, well, I don't have the tools to do that.

Lowering the boiler does not appear to be a good option, either.  I have already removed a small amount from the leading top edge of the tender, for clearance to the bottom of the cab roof.  Lowering the boiler any more would make it appear awkward, relative to the tender.

Next step is to straighten out the running boards, and remove some of the incorrect details.  Maybe that will make the drivers appear larger.  Or maybe not.

[johnb]

That loco looks great. I would be happy to own it

[Cajonpassfan]

Jim, your workmanship is fabulous, love the piping, junction boxes, etc. Gives the loco a sense of mass and proportion. As to the drivers, it is what it is, but I think getting rid of the white tires actually helped; the white trim just called too much attention to the undersized wheels....this way it all blends in better. For me, the bigger issue is the gap between the last driver and the firebox... if you' not done, any way the firebox sides can be extended forward to fill the space and hide the frame?
You got a fan here
Otto K.

[randgust]

No PRR expert whatsoever, but the overall look is just excellent to me post-paint.