Choosing couplers

[djconway]

I usually use a shallow cookie tray on a TV tray to assemble 1015'so or any other MT couplers. Work inside the tray and you have 33% or so chance of finding the spring.
Get the assembly jig, it saves much of the colorful language.  Stay away from caffeine and alcohol, you need a steady hand.

I find with practice I can assemble the 10 pairs or more in less time than a NFL game. 

RDA non RDA may be a function of how many couplers your source sells. Old stock=non RDA.

[nkalanaga]

And, for those who haven't taken one apart, the "standard" MT truck mounted coupler is nothing but a 1023/25 in a different box.  I bought 500 pair of boxes a few years ago to convert my truck-mounted couplers, and have a lifetime supply left over.

This also means that they have all of the features, good and bad, of the 1023/25. 

[Kisatchie]

I just called Micro-Trains and asked if all their couplers have the Reverse Draft Angle. The lady I spoke with said, yes, the entire line is now RDA. The MTL 1017 couplers were the last to be changed over.


Hmm... still no word on
when more banana cars
will be run...

[mark.hinds]

I just called Micro-Trains and asked if all their couplers have the Reverse Draft Angle. The lady I spoke with said, yes, the entire line is now RDA. The MTL 1017 couplers were the last to be changed over.


Hmm... still no word on
when more banana cars
will be run...

If she is correct, they need to update their online catalog to indicate this.  Also, if she is correct, and if they haven't fixed the "thick RDA tip" issue from 2 years ago, then anyone wanting reliable magnetic uncoupling will need to do something similar to the mod I posted above. 

MH

[Kisatchie]

If she is correct, they need to update their online catalog to indicate this.  Also, if she is correct, and if they haven't fixed the "thick RDA tip" issue from 2 years ago, then anyone wanting reliable magnetic uncoupling will need to do something similar to the mod I posted above. 

Give 'em a call and let them know. Seriously.


Hmm... and ask 'em to
make more banana cars...

[PeyRil]

A neat trick I picked up from somewhere for keeping the spring from flying off into the unknown is to use a simple piece of thread. Basicly I do the same as mentioned above but with the addition of one little step. Cut about  6 to 8 inch piece of fine thread and feed it through the spring a few inches before you do the step with the knife to place it in the box. Place the lid on the box and gently slide out the thread before completing the "snap" of the lid. Since I learned this I haven't lost a single spring!

[Lemosteam]

PeyRil, nice tip on your second post! Thanks!

[GimpLizard]

Hey folks, let's not make this harder than it needs to be.

Reward yourself with .... a glimpse of Halle Berry on your phone.... 

John C.

I'm more a Janine Turner (Northern Exposure) kinda guy. Will that work as well?

[mark.hinds]

Give 'em a call and let them know. Seriously.


Hmm... and ask 'em to
make more banana cars...

FYI, I discussed this with a guy named "Joe" at MT back in 2011; see this thread referencing those conversations. 
http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?128706-Automatic-coupler-compatibility-thoughts/page2
Eventually I gave up, having formed the impression that he lacked the time to deal with the issue.  I suspect that most of their customers don't use automatic magnetic uncoupling.  Still, for those of us who do, my information may be of some value, and so I post in threads like this one. 

MH

[SP-Wolf]

Like I mentioned in a previous post -- I do use (Or at least try to) magnetic uncoupling. And-- this thread has opened my eyes to the new design MT couplers. I couldn't figure out why they weren't working properly. When I test the couplers - they slam over as I feel they should (When the car or locomotive is alone).When I couple them-- they do not want to separate. But -- sometimes they will --- very frustrating!! As 90 plus percent of my locomotives are equipped with the 1015 coupler. My freight cars are a combo of the new 1025's, 1015's or the boxes cut off the trucks. Now-- I have to go through my locomotive and freight car fleet and modify the couplers-- DAMN!!

Any way -- endeavor to persevere,
Wolf   

[Doug G.]

The -1 on the 1015s does not mean unassembled. Originally, the 1015s and 1016s were made a little differently. The lid was thicker than the bottom of the box and you could assemble them either with the lid up or down, depending on how high the mounting surface was above the rails. The lid did not snap on. You had to heat weld the lid to the box like with 1025s.

Somewhere along the line, MT changed them so the lid and box bottom are the same thickness and they supply the shim to use with different mounting heights. That's why they are -1s.

One other thing. An alternate to filing down the knuckle tip on later MTs, to get them to work with standard MT uncoupling magnets, is to gently bend out the lip a bit. This works because, without modification, the outside of the knuckles hit the lips before the two knuckle tips are fully disengaged. Bending out the lip a bit allows the two knuckles to swing out a little farther and fully disengage for uncoupling. It's easier than filing the tips too. Just don't break the lip off.

Doug

[craigolio1]

A method I use to store my springs (not my invention) is to store them on safety pins or bent prices of wire. Just slide them off as you need them.

I also assemble my couplers with both hands and all parts in an extra large clear freezer bag. The springs fly away but are still inside the bag. No lost springs.

Craig.

[timgill]

FYI, I have found this tutorial on assembling 1015's very helpful.

[Cajonpassfan]

Yea, but where's the Bourbon?
I'd rather do it Colombo's way
Otto K.

[timgill]

I thought bourbon was implied in all model railroading activities....